Dtwillis5

My car want start and I'm not getting no codes at all. When it used to start I had the cel and trac light on. I'm thinking the ecm. Sound like it?

deanshark

Doesn't sound like the ECU. As you mentioned in your other posts about dieing after 1700 RPM, and now not starting sounds like maybe the timing. Pull the two timing covers off the top and see if all 3 timing marks line up. (Crankshaft pulley and both Camshaft pulleys) Also you mentioned about it getting gas and maybe no spark. If there is no spark that could also point towards timing.

Dtwillis5

I just change the spark plugs and wires

Dtwillis5

I'm going to check it out. I know on pulley the the mark didn't line up the 0

deanshark

You have to set the crankshaft pulley on 0 by turning it with a 22mm socket. (CLOCKWISE) Then see if the timing marks line up on the camshaft pulleys. Step 28 in this http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html you can clearly see the timing marks on the camshaft pulleys and engine. Obviously your engine wont be torn down that much, but you get the idea.
You say that you changed plugs and wires, did you check to see if you have spark? Did you check the new wires with an ohm meter before you put them on? I had 2 new wires that didn't read anything on the meter so I had to get another new set.

Dtwillis5

I put it on 0 when i saw that but i didn't look at the cams. I check the ohm on the wires and the gap on the plugs. I did the rotors too one was pointing up and the other down to the left. When i took out the old plugs only four was bad real bad and the other four was looking new, might mean something.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

that means one of the distributors is out of time....

deanshark

That means it's been bad for a while. Has the timing belt ever been changed? If so it might have been put on one tooth off. It would run with it like that but like crap. If it hasn't been changed it might be stretched out enough to where the tensioner isn't putting enough tension on it and it slipped. When mine jumped time it was running OK and then all of a sudden it felt like it was on 4 cylinders (which it was) and then it just died. Check those timing marks and I think you will find your problem.

Dtwillis5

Im going to check it out this weekend

Dtwillis5

A shop told me they gone charge me 370 to do timing belt and water pump. Is that a good price, And is that's all I need to get done when he do this t/b job?

deanshark

So, did you check the timing marks to make sure that's what the problem is?
$370 labor only? You need T-belt, water pump, T-belt tensioner, 2 idler bearings. Parts cost more then $370, although you could get aftermarket for less. I wouldn't get an aftermarket belt though. I just had one stretch after 14K miles and it jumped. While your in there it's a very good idea to change the crank and cam shaft seals. I paid $10 for all 3 OEM from rockauto.com and it's only another 15 minutes labor. It's not a hard job if you're mechanicaly inclined and follow the tutorial on lexls.com. You just gotta take your time. You could also change the distributor caps and rotors while you have them off if they haven't been changed in a while.

Dtwillis5

Found some time soI just took a quick look at the timing (carterpillers was falling everywhere) its the orginal belt i only look at the left side (driver side) the white line was still on the belt but i didnt see any marks,dots on the pulley either it faded or it at the bottom.

tonyfazt

i used gates on mine works good better than autozone/china/mexico products

Dtwillis5

I got my brother to help me check out my car it started up like it did before and kill when it get to 1700rpm or when i let off the gas. Since i had help i got a chance to check out things while he sit in dat car. I notice it was leaking gas from the catalytic converter then when he gave it gas it started smoking from the cats and the pipes. Im trying to see what that sound like

Dtwillis5

it stay on when I let off the gas