90 ls400 (newbie)
#16
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Idaho
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EVERYBODY'S Air conditioning/Clock display seems to go black on early LS's! I googled "Lexus LCD replacement" and it's like google knew which LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) I was talking about! Lextreme has the LCD and the instructions to replace it, (not a quick fix, but definitely something I can handle.) I'm tryin' it.
On second thought, I just found the guy that originally designed the improved replacement and he still charges $80 instead of $160. Scroll down further on Google.
On second thought, I just found the guy that originally designed the improved replacement and he still charges $80 instead of $160. Scroll down further on Google.
Last edited by bgresearch; 05-09-11 at 10:48 PM. Reason: new information
#17
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Location: CA
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My '91 only leaks in one place; the power steering pump. Throughly clean the outside and hoses near the pump and see if it stays clean. The only thing in my trunk was an extra bottle of power steering fluid when I bought it. From the sounds of some of the threads I've read, the dryed up O-rings at the hose connections can leak a ton!
well i still have power steering pump vacuum unhooked and intake and intake manifold blocked off and car still smoke on cold start up for 1 to 2mins
#19
Pole Position
i was searching around this site and found ps pump could be leaking into intake i undid the vacuum lines from it and blocked them and it still Smokes on start up and last for 1min or 2
is there anything other that i can check or do to help this thing pass smog
my next paycheck i getting spark plugs and resealing oil pan and oil change
Thanks
Anthony
is there anything other that i can check or do to help this thing pass smog
my next paycheck i getting spark plugs and resealing oil pan and oil change
Thanks
Anthony
#20
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ok today after i went to work and came home i went to start the ls400 to go to a SAC Kings Rally car had pulsating revs 1000rpm to 1500rpm and on brakes car is pushing to go havent touched anything other than PS Vacuum lines u re-hooked it up still doing it
and washed car a day ago
and washed car a day ago
#23
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Man, when you said there was JB Weld on the upper pan I wasn't thinking all the way around, someone didn't want to pull the engine to fix it. I hope for your sake it aint leaking from that. The lower pan is easy to get off but it looks like the oil is coming from somewhere above the upper pan so maybe the crankshaft seal or higher, like the valve covers which are known to leak, especially the drivers side, rear.
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Man, when you said there was JB Weld on the upper pan I wasn't thinking all the way around, someone didn't want to pull the engine to fix it. I hope for your sake it aint leaking from that. The lower pan is easy to get off but it looks like the oil is coming from somewhere above the upper pan so maybe the crankshaft seal or higher, like the valve covers which are known to leak, especially the drivers side, rear.
ya .... JD weld i was like WTF did u see the c clamp hold on lower pan LOL yaaa tons of work a head of me (
well there only little oil in timing belt area and timing belt dry valve covers look like they are about to start leaking
if i where to drop front sub frame with something holding motor up could i do it in 3 to 5 hours? or would anyone know any good Guides on how to pull and reseal upper oil pan
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#27
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Guess you really needed some new plugs, bad. Changing the crankshaft seal itself is easy, getting to is time consuming and expensive b/c what you need to do is the timing belt/water pump replacement job located here. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html The only thing this doesn't show is the seals (cam and crank) but it's only another 15 minutes labor. Ya just need to pull off the timing gear on the crankshaft, (with a pulley puller) and the two camshaft pulleys. The seals come out pretty easy, even with a screwdriver, I used a paint can opening tool to just pry them out. Be careful not to scratch and nic the shafts.
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