Timing belt possibly dumb question
04-24-11, 02:05 PM
#16
Pole Position
Great thanks for the link - its for the 96 as you say.
This is the kit I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AJZMI8 It comes with the accessory belt too, and several assorted seals.
Maybe I should get new dissy caps and rotors, on 240K? I do hear some valve chatter these days, not sure if all this will help.
This is the kit I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AJZMI8 It comes with the accessory belt too, and several assorted seals.
Maybe I should get new dissy caps and rotors, on 240K? I do hear some valve chatter these days, not sure if all this will help.
And most of it (Maybe all) is OEM parts. Make sure you use the right WP gasket b/c that kit has 2. When I did mine I used the gasket and high temp sealer on the water pump. Don't use any sealer on the T-stat, it doesn't call for it and you don't need it. I'd suggest getting the caps and rotors if you can afford it, it's not that much more, you'll already have them off anyway. Then the only thing left would be plugs and wires, but those can be done afterwards.
04-24-11, 02:25 PM
#17
Your original plan would have worked. You have to have the correct number of teeth between each mark. So if you lined it up exactly you would be okay. However being even one tooth off can mess up the timing.
04-24-11, 05:10 PM
#18
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Why are there two WP gaskets?
lex2001 - sure thing there, lining up by teeth count, not by actual distance. I even heard of some belts with 2 more teeth than the OEM! WTF?
lex2001 - sure thing there, lining up by teeth count, not by actual distance. I even heard of some belts with 2 more teeth than the OEM! WTF?
04-25-11, 05:22 AM
#19
Pole Position
2 more teeth on a belt??
I never heard of that. It's supposed to have 209. If it has more teeth then the tensioner would have to come out more which, wont happen. My first belt I bought was a Dayco which stretched after 14K miles and the tensioner couldn't handle the extra 1/16 of an inch and it jumped. I can't even imagine an extra 1/2 inch. This time I got a Gates belt, we'll see how this one works out.
04-25-11, 01:32 PM
#20
04-25-11, 08:26 PM
#26
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I know everyone will have an opion, but permatex right stuff replaces about any gasket you need except those that surfaces in contact with fuel
http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm
I use this on my cars and dirt bikes. It is expensive compared to other permatex products but one tube will go a very long way. Best part is no time to dry, no need to do any special torque sequence. Just put it on and bolt down.
By the way, I used this for my water pump replacement last week. The lexus pump I purchased came with a tube of toyota/lexus form in place gasket material as well but I didn't use it. I now have two brand new tubes - the other tube I got was for the transmission pan but I won't use it. I'll go with permatex right stuff.
Not trying to start a debate over what to use, but pre cut gaskets and waterpumps didn't sound right for a ls400. At least not on my 93.
http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm
I use this on my cars and dirt bikes. It is expensive compared to other permatex products but one tube will go a very long way. Best part is no time to dry, no need to do any special torque sequence. Just put it on and bolt down.
By the way, I used this for my water pump replacement last week. The lexus pump I purchased came with a tube of toyota/lexus form in place gasket material as well but I didn't use it. I now have two brand new tubes - the other tube I got was for the transmission pan but I won't use it. I'll go with permatex right stuff.
Not trying to start a debate over what to use, but pre cut gaskets and waterpumps didn't sound right for a ls400. At least not on my 93.
04-25-11, 08:48 PM
#27
or a headgasket...
I know everyone will have an opion, but permatex right stuff replaces about any gasket you need except those that surfaces in contact with fuel
http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm
I use this on my cars and dirt bikes. It is expensive compared to other permatex products but one tube will go a very long way. Best part is no time to dry, no need to do any special torque sequence. Just put it on and bolt down.
By the way, I used this for my water pump replacement last week. The lexus pump I purchased came with a tube of toyota/lexus form in place gasket material as well but I didn't use it. I now have two brand new tubes - the other tube I got was for the transmission pan but I won't use it. I'll go with permatex right stuff.
Not trying to start a debate over what to use, but pre cut gaskets and waterpumps didn't sound right for a ls400. At least not on my 93.
http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm
I use this on my cars and dirt bikes. It is expensive compared to other permatex products but one tube will go a very long way. Best part is no time to dry, no need to do any special torque sequence. Just put it on and bolt down.
By the way, I used this for my water pump replacement last week. The lexus pump I purchased came with a tube of toyota/lexus form in place gasket material as well but I didn't use it. I now have two brand new tubes - the other tube I got was for the transmission pan but I won't use it. I'll go with permatex right stuff.
Not trying to start a debate over what to use, but pre cut gaskets and waterpumps didn't sound right for a ls400. At least not on my 93.
04-26-11, 12:12 PM
#28
Pole Position
Hey Dean, when I did my water pump I had the cork like gasket that came with it. I used that and sealer and it hasn't leaked yet, 15K miles. Maybe the metal type gasket is for the 95-97, Idk. In the pic for the kit you ordered, the two gaskets look different, not just material type. The link that Lex2001 and I posted does show the WP changed. I would read that one and the one on lexls.com for references.
04-26-11, 05:08 PM
#29
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Ok cheers Dean, the two gaskets are actually the same when you hold them together - pic must be generic. I called the sellers and they said to use the metal one.
I've got both tutorials printed out. Just need some time now!
I've got both tutorials printed out. Just need some time now!
04-26-11, 05:11 PM
#30
Intermediate
Thread Starter
One thing I don't get - how to stop the crank shaft from turning to get off the bolt. Manual says to get their tool to hold onto the pulley. On my rover I put a bar into the flywheel housing to stop the thing.
I also saw a post somewhere that said you can hold the bolt with a breaker bar and turn over the engine?
I also saw a post somewhere that said you can hold the bolt with a breaker bar and turn over the engine?