Aftermarket Subwoffer and Amp
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Aftermarket Subwoffer and Amp
I have a 2000 LS400 with the nav system. I bought a Kicker Amp and two 15" woffers in a box that will go into the trunk. Does anyone have any tips on getting this installed on the stock Nakamichi system. From what I have read I will have to run the power switch to the battery, and dis-connect the rear factory sub amp. Does anyone have a 2000 LS400 radio wiring diagram, or some advice on how to put a after market sub system in a stock Lexus 2000 LS400?
Thank You
Desarae.
Thank You
Desarae.
#2
Driver
iTrader: (3)
hey,
I have a 98 with nav and I have an aftermarket sub and amp.
What I did is I connected the wire that goes to the stock sub directly to the aftermarket amp. Amp has a HI input. If my amp wouldnt have it, I would get a HI-LOW converter and use RCAs.
I dont know if its the right way, because stock amp gives 2 ohms (as I remember) but my amp is min 2 ohms and sub is 4 ohm. But my system works fine.
I have a 98 with nav and I have an aftermarket sub and amp.
What I did is I connected the wire that goes to the stock sub directly to the aftermarket amp. Amp has a HI input. If my amp wouldnt have it, I would get a HI-LOW converter and use RCAs.
I dont know if its the right way, because stock amp gives 2 ohms (as I remember) but my amp is min 2 ohms and sub is 4 ohm. But my system works fine.
#3
Pole Position
iTrader: (5)
the biggest concern is the ohms...what level is your amp ohm stable at and how many channels....and then also what is ohms are your subs and how many you are putting in (one or two or more).
BL...based on the ohm stablity of the amp and the subs ohm rating will determine how your wire your system...parallel or series or independent. Call you local stereo shop that carries the brands you have and they will tell you how to run them.
BL...based on the ohm stablity of the amp and the subs ohm rating will determine how your wire your system...parallel or series or independent. Call you local stereo shop that carries the brands you have and they will tell you how to run them.
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Speaker and Amp Info.
Here is the amp and speaker set up I bought. KICKER DUAL 15" AMPLIFIED LOADED SUB BOX ZX400.1 C15
Kicker ZX400.1 Features:
Kicker ZX400.1 Features:
- ZX Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier
- RMS Power Rating:
- 4 ohms: 200 watts x 1 chan.
- 2 ohms: 400 watts x 1 chan.
- Max power output: 400 watts x 1 chan.
- MOSFET power supply
- LED power and protection indicators
- Tuned Bass EQ (0-18 dB bass boost at 40 Hz)
- Balanced differential inputs make KICKER ZX Amplifiers compatible with any factory radio
- Eliminates unwanted noise in a system
- Boost, gain, and crossover frequencies are top-mounted for easy access, and a handy protection indicator featuring a new flashing yellow low-voltage light enhances the end panel
- Bridgeable operation
- Speaker-level inputs compatible (switchable) through RCA connection
- Preamp RCA outputs
- Automatic turn on modes: remote, DC offset, or signal sense
- Thermal, voltage, and short circuit protection circuitry
- Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
- Subsonic Filter (24 dB at 25 Hz)
- CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
- Frequency response: 25-200 Hz
- Gauge: 8
- Power Wire: 17 Feet Translucent Blue
- Speaker Wire: 20ft Translucent
- Ground Wire: 3ft Translucent Silver
- Remote Turn On Wire: 16ft Blue
- Fuse Holder: Waterproof Satin AGU Fuseholder
- Fuse Included: 60 Amp
- Wire Ties: 10pcs 4 Inch Black Cable Ties
- RCA Interconnects: 17ft Translucent Blue Twisted
- Kicker C15 15" Subwoofer Single 4 Ohm 250 Watts (10C15-4)
- Power Handling:
- Peak Power: 500 Watts
- RMS Power: 250 Watts
- Impedance: Single 4 Ohm
- Sensitivity: 90.3
- Frequency Response: 25-500 Hz
- Mounting Depth: 7-7/16"
- Mounting Cutout: 13-11/16"
- Recommend Sealed Box Volume: 2.25 - 5.00 Cubic Feet
- Recommend Vented Box Volume: 3.00 - 4.00 Cubic Feet
#6
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the biggest concern is the ohms...what level is your amp ohm stable at and how many channels....and then also what is ohms are your subs and how many you are putting in (one or two or more).
BL...based on the ohm stablity of the amp and the subs ohm rating will determine how your wire your system...parallel or series or independent. Call you local stereo shop that carries the brands you have and they will tell you how to run them.
BL...based on the ohm stablity of the amp and the subs ohm rating will determine how your wire your system...parallel or series or independent. Call you local stereo shop that carries the brands you have and they will tell you how to run them.
So assuming wherever you bought this stuff wired the subs to the amp properly at 2 ohms you can ignore that piece of the wiring (I'm assuming this because you said it was a "loaded" box). You need power, directory from the battery, a remote turn on (something acc that comes on with the car) and the audio signal which you can run directly into the amp where it's labeled "Hi-level input". Ohh and a ground of course... The signal wires for the sub amp should do the trick for the hi-level input
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