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Unlike the easily replaced switches on the 90-94 LS, from 95 up they are hidden inside the doors and apparently triggered by the latch mechanism - see attached diagram.
Driver side switch on my 1990 was sticking. It was very easy to pull the rubber boot back, clean and lube the plunger, and reinstall the boot. Works great now. In my car, there are a few systems that get a signal from that switch, so it's a bit more important than trivial to have one that works properly. The auto headlights on my car are one example.
Executive summary: When replacing or refurbishing the door switch, I recommend you JUST CUT THE WIRES to separate it from the car, then SOLDER the wires back with some heat shrink over the junction. (to avoid taking off the B Pillar garnish)
I will explain below.
This should have been easy…..but NO.
I had differences in the behavior of the door puddle light and the main cabin light that I could fix with a small amount of finger pressure on the rubber boot covering the door switch (which is in the B pillar, not the door by the way). The door switch was clearly messed up.
I thought of buying a new one, but only found used ones and I thought those would have contacts with corrosion and may not solve my problem.
Then I came across a fine video on YouTube by fixpro256 titled “Door Courtesy Dome Light Switch not working” where he cleans up the contacts on a door switch for a Toyota. And, it looked a lot like the switch from my UCF10!
The connector on the door switch was not accessible simply by removing the single bolt holding it in. It is buried within the B pillar.
I foolishly tried to remove the B pillar garnish which shattered into pieces even though I applied pressure correctly straight outward from the pillar as evenly as I could. Now I get to try and repair that! I did gain access to the connector and disconnected it.
In retrospect I wish I had cut the wires, cleaned the contacts, and soldered the wires back
I was successful in cleaning and scraping the contacts by disassembling the door switch. I applied some “Nu-Ttrol" control cleaner for electronics with special lubricating oil” before re-assembling the door switch.
IMHO the metal tab on the mount is probably the only problem connection.
Hope these pictures help.
Details of door switch contact cleaning
TMI: I believe the door switch grounds 2 separate wires to the chassis. I speculate one wire is a current carrying one for the puddle light, but the other is a low current sense wire for telling a controller it can dim the cabin courtesy light and for security behaviors involving the door opening. This is why the behaviors of the puddle light and cabin courtesy light can diverge with corroded contacts.
03-19-11, 05:48 AM
