deanshark

Well, tomorrow I am going to start changing the heater core in my '93 LS. It's supposed to be warmer. (29*) I was wondering if there is any easy, or I should say, easier way to pull the heater core. I was reading the manual and, maybe I'm reading it wrong, it says to take out the whole dash. Not just the bottom panels but, the whole friggen thing, including the whole top part of the dash. My God, does that sound right? Can I get the heater assembly out by pulling the lower panel and all the duct work? Any help or ideas is appreciated. I'm tired (and sick) of brething in all this antifreeze and having no heat.
TIA

deanshark

Well, I started taking it apart today and WOW. I see why it cost so much to replace. I found out there is no easy way to do this. I first took the lower panels off and I thought "awight this is great" but then, I realized I was only looking at the blower unit. (Which has to come out first) The heater assembly is up inside to the left, directly behind the radio. I might be able to pull the radio and get to the bolts and nuts for the heater. If not then the dash pad has to come out. Also, there has to be a million miles of wire back there. At least there is gonna be decent weather the next couple days. (40s) Happy New Year to me.

randal

Yeah, it can be quite a job. Are you taking pictures along the way? If you have a camera, please snap some shots. You could be the first to put together a DIY tutorial for the heater core replacement. Besides that, pics will help you if you can't remember how something goes back together. Best wishes on this project.

deanshark

I was thinking about a tutorial but my kid has my camera. He got into his first accident the other day so I brought him the camera and now he's keeping it in his car. (It won't be his last crash) Plus, the way I'm doing it is a "hurry up and get it done" type thing. I only have 2 days to get it all back together, then the weather goes back to 20s. I got the manual so it will go back together the right way.
Anyone know of anything I should check while I have the dash out? I'm going to check all the sensors on the heater unit but, anything else?

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

Man you are in uncharted waters for me, deepest I have ever gone is to remove the CD unit, center console/radio stuff and instrument gauges on a LS.. .. did a TBird years back where the whole dash had to be removed, and that was before all the electronic stuff we have now.
Good Luck..

deanshark

Yea, the old days were nice and easy weren't they? Almost got the dash pad out and then I gotta deal with all the electronics behind it and etc, ect. I had a hell of a time getting the passenger airbag out, I hate airbags.

deanshark

If anyone is thinking about doing this, good luck. Figured I'd let everyone know what NEEDS to come out before ya start. I just gotta laugh at this thing. If you don't have a service manual do not, I repeat, do NOT attempt to do this job. After removing center console, radio, glove box, L and R garnish trim, air bags, steering wheel and column, about 20 wire plugs, and other misc. parts finally the dash pad can come out. But then, dash pad brace, 6 different computors, about 30 more wire plugs, and a boat load of ducts, then ya see the blower unit and heater assembly. Then from under hood ya got the heater hoses, cruise control actuater, and A/C lines off the blower unit. Then back inside, the blower unit comes out and then the heater assembly, then, 3 screws and ya finally got the heater core out. In the manual it says to remove the front seats to remove the rear ducts before the heater assembly comes out. I wasn't gonna go that far into it. What I did was just pry the ducts apart. (they bend) When I put them back in I bent them and forced them in and wrapped them with duct tape. Install is just like everything else, reverse of removal. I'm about half way installed now. I have left the dash pad and backwards from there. My H/C was shot. I saw 3 leaks and it was clogged. I should be done tomorrow and I will have heat. (I hope) Well, that was my New Years so far. If I knew it was this much work I would have just bypassed it and went w/o heat still, but I'll be happy when it's done.

BLKonBLK98

not looking forward to removing the dash, but it must be done. since i'm feelin lazy, care to share what pages in the manual cover this?

edit - nm. decided to look it up. fun.

deanshark

It's ALOT more work then it looks in the manual. For anyone else that needs the page numbers they are in volume 2 of the manual.
Heater unit and blower unit:
AC 109
AC 103-104
Ducts:
AC 152-155
Dash pad:
BO 158-169

deanshark

Well, I got it all back together, other then the console and I only have two extra bolts. If I have the heat set at 80* to max hot it comes out cold if it's set 79 or below it comes out very hot when I'm driving but when standing still it starts to be cold again. Any ideas?? When it first came hot there was massive smoke that came out of all the vents, no smell to it. And the windows still fog up just a little, but that could be b/c there is still antifreeze on them from the old heater core leaking.
Things that are different now;
My outside temp reads - 22 but it read normal before. I don't care what the temp is outside but the computor might. My signals aren't working now (I might not have popped a fuse on that) But other than those couple minor things, I think it came out pretty good. At least there's some kind of heat and I'll see how it goes the next couple days. What an adventure this was.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

sounds like you have an air bubble, rebleed.

you said it was hot when you drove but cold when you're stationary? try revving it in neutral or park, it should be hot. another indicator of an air bubble.

Acidic

iTrader: (1)

get the engine warm and cycle back and forth between hot and cold... this is easier with a manual dial but it works the same on a heater core. This is basically the same procedure you do when you put a radiator in... do it like 20 times until it's warm at idle. Mine can fry me out of the car no problem when @ operating temp.

deanshark

Thanks, Yea I was thinking another air bubble. I was doing a quick bleed right when I got it all together but the car was facing downhill so it is prob some air. I've been driving it on and off for a couple hours now and it seems to be getting better but the windows are still fogging BAD. Same as before, I don't get it. I don't see any steam coming out anymore and there's no antifreeze smell. The outside temp gauge is working again.

gracie559

where are the last screws to remove the heater core??

deanshark

The last 3 screws are just plastic braces that hold the heater core into the heater assembly. If you have the assembly out then you should see the screws. After those screws it just slides right out. Are you having fun yet? A bit of advice, if your core was leaking make sure you soak up ALL the coolant that's underneith inside the assembly.