ChrisK

iTrader: (1)

selewis,

Check GS forum and search for 90915-20004. These guys had a big discussion about oil filters about two weeks ago. Someone posted the link to on of the supra sites where you can see the pictures of open Toyota and Mobil 1 oil filters. You can see for yourself what filter is the highest quality.

Here is the link to GS forum oil fiter discussion

Yes, 90915-20004 Toyota/Denso filter is available at your Toyota/Lexus dealership. On the other hand, you have to ask for it using this part number, otherwise they will sell you a different filter, I believe made in US, which is not as good quality as this one. Keep in mind that the price for this filter could be in $17 range.

alicemet

I've always said: All cars need oil, and new oil is better than old oil.

As long as you change it regularly, any name brand is fine in my book.

In my VW diesel, I run 5-40 DELO synthetic with 10,000 mile drain intervals. Soot loading in the diesel makes me more particular about that car. In my cressida, 5-30 dyno with 5,000 drain intervals. Analysis shows that either could go twice as far without oil degredation - but, once again . . . new oil is better than old oil. And I think that's all there is to it :-)

kreativ

90915-20004 can be had for under $8 at various online shops and Toyota dealers (such as Steve Ganz at Carson Toyota, who ships items and sells these for $7.25 a piece.)

I find Lexus' recommendations for oil changes is just fine. If I gotta believe someone, might as well be the people who built my car. I've been running 12 years using their recommended oil change interval.

2Lexos

Hey Chris, don't you use Crisco in your SC4? That's probably why you have so many rock chips on your front end!!

ChrisK

iTrader: (1)

Very funny Alex.

I use Amsoil 5W-30, and that's why I have so many rock chips on the front end.

UZZ32

Castrol Magnatec 10W-30 oil analysis results are back from the lab.
So for a hard driven 5000 km in a V8 the following have passed the lab analysis:

Penrite HPR15 Semi-syn 15W-60
Shell Helix Plus Semi-syn 15W-50
Halvoline Energy Semi-syn 5W-30
Castrol Magnatec Semi-syn 10W-30
Ryco after market filters passed with the first three oils.
A genuine Toyota filter passed with the Castrol oil.

Currently in the engine is Mobil 1 and a FSA filter - after 2500 km it looks real dirty and I really want to flush it but should leave it for another 2500 km for science. Don't know how anyone can leave oil longer than 5000 km! Out of sight out of mind? If you drain oil into a spotless pan (I do for the analysis) - you just couldn't pour it back into the engine after seeing it and smelling it. The oil might last but it gets filled with crud and the filter starts to clog.

The Castrol Magnatec was used after installing the new cams.
All the wear metals have increased, especially iron and aluminium, but still within limits.
Does not contain nearly as much Molybdenum as the Halvoline oil.
Contaminants have also increased, still within limits.
None of the oils have lost any viscosity after 5000km. On the Amsoil site they always rave about how lesser oils always lose heaps of viscosity and that is why you need Amsoil - I haven't seen any oil lose viscosity yet.
Strangely the Magnatec has got thicker - the tested viscosity is for GTX3 spec - not the thinner Magnatec spec. This is very odd - the Castrol lab commented that the tested viscosity was higher than the that for Magnatec. I haven't added any thickening agents to the engine - it is unexplained - the bottle definitley said Magnatec - was it filled with the cheaper GTX3 somehow? The Lab didn't believe it was Castrol Magnatec for this reason!
A mystery that will never be solved!

So if pressed for the best oil for a V8 then right now I would have to say Halvoline Energy available only from Caltex Service Stations - but it is early days and there are many fine oils out there.
I can't see any difference between cheap Ryco oil filters and genuine Toyota oil filters in the lab results.

Even though it will break my heart I will also try an aftermarket air filter - K&N and foam type - see how they compare to a genuine air filter over 5000 km for dirt filtering.

I was reading an oil FAQ on another site today - oil was recommended based on advertising budget as far as I could tell. One test involved changing the oil and then using the pants dyno to comprehensively test and unequivically state how good an oil was. Man I wish I had these super powers! The only super powers I have ever had (and these are secret super powers so don't tell anyone) is that three times in the past 4 years I have been able to gargle with Betadine, that iodine brown solution, for a sore throat and spit it back out into the sink crystal clear! I have tried to reproduce these special powers but I just spit it out brown - oh well, now I know how the young Clark Kent felt when growing up with his uncontrolled super powers......

So if you want to look at all the figures from the oil analysis so far and read too much about oil then here is the page:
http://www.users.bigpond.com/pgscott...ilAnalysis.htm

Amsoil recommend changing the filter more often than the oil - the oil doesn't break down, but it still gets contaminated and the filter still gets clogged.

velandia

Wow Peter,
that is quite the experiment you have going!

I look forward to seeing your mobil 1 full synth results.

On the link you pointed to it said ....lots of full throttle driving.... how I'd love to be able to do that!

In the mean time I'll keep doing oil changes with full synth every 3000mi (~5000km), use up my fram oil filters and switch to some better quality filter (maybe Toyota).

-Maurice

Bradster

Hello There-I recently inherited a well taken care of 1990 LS400 with standard suspension and 232,000 miles.The springs and struts are original and seem to be fine (what do i have to compare it to) Question is since i've decided the change the struts (probably tokico) should i also change the springs? Is it faulty reasoning to think-well it's 13 years old and high mileage might as well change both at the same time and be done with it? Is there a known best combo of springs/struts that tighten up the handling and ride of this fine auto for normal florida driving conditions (no speed racer) H&R,Eibach etc all seem to be fine products and will lower the LS 1" or so.Is that a plus with no drawbacks? Any help in this area is greatly appreciated.TIA!

SQ-LS

I would go with what I have right now.
I have the tokico blue shocks and Eibach springs.
I felt better handling and I didn't really sacrificed the smoothness becuase it was actually not that much different.

Oh yes since your already in there swap them both because you do have over 200K on the old ones!

Bradster

Looks like the Eibach/Tokico combo will run about 600.00 plus installation-so many things to buy so little money.I'm thinking i should use the stock springs and replace the struts with OEM for 200.00 plus install or should i substitute Tokico for OEM for about 325.00 plus install-does it pay to spend the extra 125.00 for the Tokico's when i'll be using the stock springs? Any thoughts on this are greatly appreciated!

GA400

Bradster,

I replaced my shocks with Lexus OEM a few months ago (around 200,000 on the odometer) They were a nice improvement, but I wondered if I would have been better off with Tokico. I have considered putting on different springs to lower the car about 1" or so. I have heard you will blow OEM shocks by doing that, but supposedly the Tokicos handle it ok. An even better solution may be coil-overs like Retrodrive used http://www.cureline.net/lex/performance/suspension.htm but they are expensive.

GA400

Lvangundy

Hard decision!

I don't think anyone here has done a comparison between a new set of tokicos and a new set of OEM shocks. After someone gets the tokicos, they praise them as having improved handling and ride quality, but compared to old shocks this is a given.

Tokico's marketing brochures have graphs that give them an edge over other brands (of course) in recoil/rebound and stopping distance specifications.

As for purchasing tokicos - good luck! I do not recommend shox.com becuase after talking to Tokico US corporate about a problem I had after I put them in, they said that there are a couple parts that should have been in the box which were not. Try Rod Millen for a complete set of tokico struts for $319.

http://www.rodmillenstore.com/ls_400/price.htm

If the car is a 1990, the stock springs have most likely sagged over the years and an Eibach spring kit wouldn't be too noticeable in visual ride height. The eibach kit has it's benefits, imrpoved handling and a more sporty look. Do not buy the eibachs and keep the stock struts. Tokico struts are made to work on a lowered car and OEM worn out struts will wear out (past what they already are) very quickly.

Just make sure you take your car to a competant (what you feel or notice) shop to have them installed. Also the rear shocks are most difficult to install becuase the back seat, deck (where the subwoofer is) and some of the upper trim panels must be removed to get to the strut mounts.

Hope this helps.

Bradster

Thanks for your thoughts gentlemen.I wonder after 12 years and 232K miles of mellow driving on decent road surfaces,how much the springs have lost over the years-are they at 80% now or 70% or maybe 50%-does it pay to keep them and just add OEM stuts? Is it better to go for the Eibach spring upgrade at this point and add Tokicos and the same time or just add new OEM struts with the original springs and keep my fingers crossed? spend now or spend later? I know there are no definative answers i'm just kinda thinking out loud.Spending money has never been so difficult

Bradster

Any other comments,suggestions,insults? I'm possibly (depending on my financial manipulation skills) going to go for the Eibach springs/Tokico shocks combo and later upgrade from the 15" to the 16" wheels.Ya'll think my direction is sound?

GA400

Bradster,

That sounds like a good way to go. If I had the $$$ when I got mine done, that is what I would have done instead of going with Lexus OEM.

GA400