DIY: Subwoofer install without drilling anything
02-19-10, 10:08 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
DIY: Subwoofer install without drilling anything
I just wanted to outline my latest venture of installing my 2x12 sub box in the trunk of my 90 LS. A few threads were kind of confusing, so I just wanted to put everything clearly in one post, just in case you wanted to do this...
Before I start, this how-to assumes you have installed an aftermarket radio in your car already. If you want to know how to do that, read this: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/headunit.html
And before you get to the end of that, make sure you run the signal wires (RCAs) out of the back for the amp, as well as the "remote" wire that turns the sub on (the blue one usually).
TOOLS:
Flat head screwdriver
10 mm deep socket (deeper, the better)
12 mm socket
Electrical tape
"Fishing" wire (something you can use to fish through tight spots, tie cables to and drag them through the rest of the way. I used a bass guitar string, but a remnant of any thin, strong cable will work)
Zip Ties
SUPPLIES:
Sub wiring kit (12v, ground, signal wires)
Okay, for best results, you must first remove the back seat and the glove box liner and passenger "shin trim plate".
BACK SEAT: Lift up on the lower part from the front of the seat. It should pop up and slide out. Once the lower part is out, find the 4 bolts that hold in the seat back, along the bottom near the seatbelt clips. Two of these are blocked by the seatbelt clips, so first loosen the 12mm clip bolts and allow them to turn. Then, remove the 4 seatbolts with a 10mm socket. Lift the seatback up and pop it out of its holes up top. Remove it from the car.
GLOVE BOX LINER: There are 5 snaps that hold it in. I just pried them out with a flat-blade screwdriver. They can be popped out correctly if you lift the center "button" then pop them out, but I got all 5 out without breaking any with the screwdriver. The picture below shows the bottom 3 holes, there are 2 above them as well.
Once the snaps are out, use the flat blade to pop the clips off of the glove box door, next to the arms. Just get the blade next to the arm and push them sideways, towards the outside of the box. The arms will just slide off of the posts underneath.
With the arms disconnected, use the screwdriver to pop the upper corners of the liner out and then gently, slide the liner out. Unhook the light while you're at it.
SHIN PLATE: There are 3 plastic screws at the bottom. Use a stubby phillips head to unscrew them a bit, then once loosened, pop them out by hand. Once they are removed, use the flat blade to gently pry the piece by the top, near the glove box bottom. There are 3 easy pops that come out and the whole thing folds down, revealing a bunch of wiring.
Okay then, now its time for the main event...
I didn't get pics, but first step for me was running the amp signal wires behind the stereo, through the console and behind the shin area of the drivers side. I used my fisher line to send the wires through an area that had some daylight (no hole needed to be made). It comes out above the accelerator pedal, then you just run it into the trim right above there, and around the E-brake pedal, over towards the side trim. This keeps it out of the way from the pedals and you can zip-tie it to something up there for security. If the cables are in that area, feel free to leave them there until later steps.
12V POWER WIRE:
While not the easiest of tasks, this method can get the power wire run without any drilling. With the hood open, look at the passenger side of the firewall, towards the top. There is a wire "dreadlock" that runs into a plastic piece that is bolted to the firewall with 2 10mm nuts (on long studs). In the pic, I already undid it and the red wire is in the area, but don't put it there yet.
Remove those nuts and slide the plastic cover away from the hole:
Before you put the wire through, you should put some electrical tape over the end of the wire that will connect to the amp. This way, it doesn't try to snag itself on everything it can:
With the plastic cover slid back, take the 12v wire and feed it into the hole at the lower right side (if you are facing the hole), where the rubber inner boot has a hole. The wire will go in a bit, but then may come to a stop.
The goal is to get it to go through the firewall and behind your glovebox area. I was able to get it to get past its "stops" by doing a rotate-and-push type technique. If it stops, turn the wire until it finds a new route.
Once a lot of the wire is through, check the hole to see if you can see it coming up, along the wire loom that's there (took a few tries, but I got it!). I was able to see mine, but needed a hook to reach it. Use a coathanger piece if you must, but just hook the wire and pull it through. DON'T PULL TOO HARD! Just get it so you can grab it for now:
When you are feeding the cable through, just make sure it isn't binding or cutting the cable. Pull it far enough through so that the end that connects to the battery terminal can reach its goal.
NOTE: DON'T CONNECT IT YET!!! Make sure that the 12v cable can be routed along the walls and zip tied to non-moving parts. I ran the cable along the wall of the drivers side of the bay, zipping it to the power steering line, then around to the top of the wall, zipping it to the lines there, and finally, into the hole.
Once it's through and ready, put the wire towards the bottom of the plastic piece. This way, it's going in from the bottom, in, and is not going to allow any water that may come into the bay to flood into the firewall.
You can now put the nuts back on and tighten the plastic piece. BUT DON'T CRANK IT!! Just snug enough to hold things in place, but not cracking the piece:
Now, back to the interior. At this point, a large amount of cable should be through the wall and in the area where the glove box goes. However, it needs to go below, so feed the cable down towards the floor into an area that won't be hit by the glove box or shin piece:
I fed the line behind the TRAC relay and beneath the side trim piece. I ran it along the trim and pushed it underneath that without removing the piece. If you had to remove the piece, though, it's not hard to pry it up, it will unclip. JUST BE CAREFUL IN COLD WEATHER! Also, if you have a thick gauge wire, you may HAVE to remove the trim and run the wire under the carpet. But basically, the hard part is getting everything through and if you are this far... you're good!
Continue to run the line under the trim. At the seatbelt pillar, it doesn't go under easily, but if you are like me and just want it out of the way, run it around and then under the rear trim, just like the front.
Now, here's another fun part... along the back wall of the car, near the door, there are wire looms that are covered up by black plastic covers, until they get to the top of the back seat, just under the rear window. The exposed wires then go into a round, plastic body "grommet" that clips into the back wall:
If you haven't done it already, remove the screws for the back wall liner in the trunk. There are 4 phillips head screws that hold the liner in place, just under the rear window, if you will. Take those out and you can fold down the liner and access the bare wall of the back of the seat.
On the passenger side, looking into the trunk from the back of the car, find the round grommet that has all the wires going through. It's near the upper corner, above the gas tank and near the hinge. This is where your wire is going to come through.
The grommet has 4 clips on it. Feel around it and press them in towards the center. When they unclip from the body, push a little and they won't reclip. When they are all undone, the whole piece can be pushed in towards the front of the car, allowing space to feed the wire.
Go to the back seat again and pull the grommet back, allowing a hole for the wire. It's not easy, but not impossible. The 12v lead should run along the black plastic cover, making sure it doesn't interfere with the seatbelt, the seat hanger area or anything that may get pinched. Feed the wire through the opening, into the trunk:
Go back into the trunk and pull the lead through. Guide the wire along the wall so it makes its way through the trunk liner (between the rear one and side one) and lead it through AWAY from the hinge. If that catches your wire, it will screw it up.
Remove your tape, hook the 12v to the sub according to its instructions. If you have an end to install, do it then. Your 12v is run...
AUDIO:
Do the same thing on the other side of the car. It's been recommended to me to have the audio away from the power to avoid interference from the signal.
Put the audio cable under the trim, run it along the low edge of the car, feed it next to the seat cable covers, up to the grommet. Pop the grommet out as in the other side.
NOTE: I removed the amp and the previous owner had removed the old sub. The amp removal is just undoing 3 10mm nuts and unplugging it. This will allow for more space to work with.
The audio cables required a bit more finesse to get through. I folded the connectors back and tied my fisher to the cable "loop". I then carefully fed it through and wiggled the RCAs one at a time to get them into the trunk.
Once again, run the wires away from the hinge and between the liners:
When done, it looks like this before you tuck everything away right:
Install the sub according to its instructions. I attached my ground wire to a hole that was for the old sub. I roughed up the surface of the welded in "nut" so the lead would make a good contact and bolted it in using an extra bolt and washer.
I then attached the 12v lead to the battery clamp.
That's it. Test the stereo and make sure it's good, reinstall the seat, the glove box liner, and set your sounds.
So far, upon tests, there is a little rattle in the top of the back seat (old sub cover), but it will be corrected. The hard part is done.
Hope this helps at least 1 person besides myself!
Before I start, this how-to assumes you have installed an aftermarket radio in your car already. If you want to know how to do that, read this: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/headunit.html
And before you get to the end of that, make sure you run the signal wires (RCAs) out of the back for the amp, as well as the "remote" wire that turns the sub on (the blue one usually).
TOOLS:
Flat head screwdriver
10 mm deep socket (deeper, the better)
12 mm socket
Electrical tape
"Fishing" wire (something you can use to fish through tight spots, tie cables to and drag them through the rest of the way. I used a bass guitar string, but a remnant of any thin, strong cable will work)
Zip Ties
SUPPLIES:
Sub wiring kit (12v, ground, signal wires)
Okay, for best results, you must first remove the back seat and the glove box liner and passenger "shin trim plate".
BACK SEAT: Lift up on the lower part from the front of the seat. It should pop up and slide out. Once the lower part is out, find the 4 bolts that hold in the seat back, along the bottom near the seatbelt clips. Two of these are blocked by the seatbelt clips, so first loosen the 12mm clip bolts and allow them to turn. Then, remove the 4 seatbolts with a 10mm socket. Lift the seatback up and pop it out of its holes up top. Remove it from the car.
GLOVE BOX LINER: There are 5 snaps that hold it in. I just pried them out with a flat-blade screwdriver. They can be popped out correctly if you lift the center "button" then pop them out, but I got all 5 out without breaking any with the screwdriver. The picture below shows the bottom 3 holes, there are 2 above them as well.
Once the snaps are out, use the flat blade to pop the clips off of the glove box door, next to the arms. Just get the blade next to the arm and push them sideways, towards the outside of the box. The arms will just slide off of the posts underneath.
With the arms disconnected, use the screwdriver to pop the upper corners of the liner out and then gently, slide the liner out. Unhook the light while you're at it.
SHIN PLATE: There are 3 plastic screws at the bottom. Use a stubby phillips head to unscrew them a bit, then once loosened, pop them out by hand. Once they are removed, use the flat blade to gently pry the piece by the top, near the glove box bottom. There are 3 easy pops that come out and the whole thing folds down, revealing a bunch of wiring.
Okay then, now its time for the main event...
I didn't get pics, but first step for me was running the amp signal wires behind the stereo, through the console and behind the shin area of the drivers side. I used my fisher line to send the wires through an area that had some daylight (no hole needed to be made). It comes out above the accelerator pedal, then you just run it into the trim right above there, and around the E-brake pedal, over towards the side trim. This keeps it out of the way from the pedals and you can zip-tie it to something up there for security. If the cables are in that area, feel free to leave them there until later steps.
12V POWER WIRE:
While not the easiest of tasks, this method can get the power wire run without any drilling. With the hood open, look at the passenger side of the firewall, towards the top. There is a wire "dreadlock" that runs into a plastic piece that is bolted to the firewall with 2 10mm nuts (on long studs). In the pic, I already undid it and the red wire is in the area, but don't put it there yet.
Remove those nuts and slide the plastic cover away from the hole:
Before you put the wire through, you should put some electrical tape over the end of the wire that will connect to the amp. This way, it doesn't try to snag itself on everything it can:
With the plastic cover slid back, take the 12v wire and feed it into the hole at the lower right side (if you are facing the hole), where the rubber inner boot has a hole. The wire will go in a bit, but then may come to a stop.
The goal is to get it to go through the firewall and behind your glovebox area. I was able to get it to get past its "stops" by doing a rotate-and-push type technique. If it stops, turn the wire until it finds a new route.
Once a lot of the wire is through, check the hole to see if you can see it coming up, along the wire loom that's there (took a few tries, but I got it!). I was able to see mine, but needed a hook to reach it. Use a coathanger piece if you must, but just hook the wire and pull it through. DON'T PULL TOO HARD! Just get it so you can grab it for now:
When you are feeding the cable through, just make sure it isn't binding or cutting the cable. Pull it far enough through so that the end that connects to the battery terminal can reach its goal.
NOTE: DON'T CONNECT IT YET!!! Make sure that the 12v cable can be routed along the walls and zip tied to non-moving parts. I ran the cable along the wall of the drivers side of the bay, zipping it to the power steering line, then around to the top of the wall, zipping it to the lines there, and finally, into the hole.
Once it's through and ready, put the wire towards the bottom of the plastic piece. This way, it's going in from the bottom, in, and is not going to allow any water that may come into the bay to flood into the firewall.
You can now put the nuts back on and tighten the plastic piece. BUT DON'T CRANK IT!! Just snug enough to hold things in place, but not cracking the piece:
Now, back to the interior. At this point, a large amount of cable should be through the wall and in the area where the glove box goes. However, it needs to go below, so feed the cable down towards the floor into an area that won't be hit by the glove box or shin piece:
I fed the line behind the TRAC relay and beneath the side trim piece. I ran it along the trim and pushed it underneath that without removing the piece. If you had to remove the piece, though, it's not hard to pry it up, it will unclip. JUST BE CAREFUL IN COLD WEATHER! Also, if you have a thick gauge wire, you may HAVE to remove the trim and run the wire under the carpet. But basically, the hard part is getting everything through and if you are this far... you're good!
Continue to run the line under the trim. At the seatbelt pillar, it doesn't go under easily, but if you are like me and just want it out of the way, run it around and then under the rear trim, just like the front.
Now, here's another fun part... along the back wall of the car, near the door, there are wire looms that are covered up by black plastic covers, until they get to the top of the back seat, just under the rear window. The exposed wires then go into a round, plastic body "grommet" that clips into the back wall:
If you haven't done it already, remove the screws for the back wall liner in the trunk. There are 4 phillips head screws that hold the liner in place, just under the rear window, if you will. Take those out and you can fold down the liner and access the bare wall of the back of the seat.
On the passenger side, looking into the trunk from the back of the car, find the round grommet that has all the wires going through. It's near the upper corner, above the gas tank and near the hinge. This is where your wire is going to come through.
The grommet has 4 clips on it. Feel around it and press them in towards the center. When they unclip from the body, push a little and they won't reclip. When they are all undone, the whole piece can be pushed in towards the front of the car, allowing space to feed the wire.
Go to the back seat again and pull the grommet back, allowing a hole for the wire. It's not easy, but not impossible. The 12v lead should run along the black plastic cover, making sure it doesn't interfere with the seatbelt, the seat hanger area or anything that may get pinched. Feed the wire through the opening, into the trunk:
Go back into the trunk and pull the lead through. Guide the wire along the wall so it makes its way through the trunk liner (between the rear one and side one) and lead it through AWAY from the hinge. If that catches your wire, it will screw it up.
Remove your tape, hook the 12v to the sub according to its instructions. If you have an end to install, do it then. Your 12v is run...
AUDIO:
Do the same thing on the other side of the car. It's been recommended to me to have the audio away from the power to avoid interference from the signal.
Put the audio cable under the trim, run it along the low edge of the car, feed it next to the seat cable covers, up to the grommet. Pop the grommet out as in the other side.
NOTE: I removed the amp and the previous owner had removed the old sub. The amp removal is just undoing 3 10mm nuts and unplugging it. This will allow for more space to work with.
The audio cables required a bit more finesse to get through. I folded the connectors back and tied my fisher to the cable "loop". I then carefully fed it through and wiggled the RCAs one at a time to get them into the trunk.
Once again, run the wires away from the hinge and between the liners:
When done, it looks like this before you tuck everything away right:
Install the sub according to its instructions. I attached my ground wire to a hole that was for the old sub. I roughed up the surface of the welded in "nut" so the lead would make a good contact and bolted it in using an extra bolt and washer.
I then attached the 12v lead to the battery clamp.
That's it. Test the stereo and make sure it's good, reinstall the seat, the glove box liner, and set your sounds.
So far, upon tests, there is a little rattle in the top of the back seat (old sub cover), but it will be corrected. The hard part is done.
Hope this helps at least 1 person besides myself!
02-20-10, 11:47 AM
#5
With the power wire, I did something similar recently. I ran a #4 wire from the battery through the firewall at the same place as above. In my '95 the OEM CD-changer is above the glovebox. As I replaced my head unit I took out the CD-changer and put a small amplifier for the door speakers there instead. Hence I divided the power wire with a power block, where one #8 went to the front amplifier and two #8 (the same area as #6) went further back to the sub amplifier. It's easier to route two #8 wires under the door trim on the right side than one thicker wire.
//Björn
//Björn
02-22-10, 07:30 AM
#6
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wow, nice diy but im going to make 1 suggestion. I ran my power cable from the driver seat. There is a hole above the brake pedal that is made for runninng a wires or whatever through. Its a cleaner job and your having to run the cable across the motor that is kinda dangerouse if you ask me. I ran a monster cable through mine 4g and it fit without a problem.
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02-26-10, 08:51 AM
#9
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Hey thanks man appreciate all the work! i've had this delima for sometime now on how to go about this. how does it sound with that tank right there to muffle it? is it still loud? have you had it DB tested?
02-26-10, 10:38 AM
#10
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Basically, it has potential, but bad weather and no spare time have kept me from perfecting it.
There is a rattle from the top of the seat, likely the old sub cover. It could also be the cover piece in the trunk rattling, which would be easily removed with scissors.
If I don't worry about the rattles, it THUMPS! The radio I'm using is the basic Pioneer that I got a few years ago, but despite the lack of super fine tuning, it sounds good. I have dialed it in to really scream on certain songs. And what's funny is that if you have the doors shut and trunk closed, you can't hear much outside... but you can feel it from hundreds of feet away!
There is a rattle from the top of the seat, likely the old sub cover. It could also be the cover piece in the trunk rattling, which would be easily removed with scissors.
If I don't worry about the rattles, it THUMPS! The radio I'm using is the basic Pioneer that I got a few years ago, but despite the lack of super fine tuning, it sounds good. I have dialed it in to really scream on certain songs. And what's funny is that if you have the doors shut and trunk closed, you can't hear much outside... but you can feel it from hundreds of feet away!
02-28-10, 06:09 AM
#12
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
It's a Kenwood 600w amp powering 2- Sony Xplod 12" speakers. It's nothing great, but it adds the proper amount of BOOTY to the tunes. I'm not looking to blow out my windows or anything, just a guy who likes some fat bass...
I am a bass guitarist, actually, so I can't even drive around in a car that doesn't have added thump. It just feels wrong to me.
I used to have a Civic Hatch with the same amp and 2-15" speakers in back... the box actually came above the back seat and the speakers pointed at my head. That was a bit much, though!
I am a bass guitarist, actually, so I can't even drive around in a car that doesn't have added thump. It just feels wrong to me.
I used to have a Civic Hatch with the same amp and 2-15" speakers in back... the box actually came above the back seat and the speakers pointed at my head. That was a bit much, though!
03-08-10, 07:31 PM
#13
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Didn't get any pics up, but have a few new bits of news and wisdom...
First off, I have a leak in my trunk somewhere (NOT part of the sub install, don't worry). The bottom of my speaker box has absorbed a bit of water and I think I may have to rebuild it. So, if I had to add some advice for the box install, it would be this:
Put the box up on something. Get some rubber feet, maybe, or put some slider rails on it (like skis, kind of). Heck, even just a floormat or two. But if you have a leaky trunk, fix that before the box goes in.
Also, I used an audio wire setup with the RCA's and a "remote" wire built into that. And by wire, I mean a piece of metal that is finer than baby hair and snaps very easily. I have been limping along with this setup for 3 cars now. ANYWAY, the remote wire turns on the amp when the radio turns on. The same thing happens with the power antenna... so the radio sends a signal to BOTH if you split it (or have 2 blue wires)... so....
EUREKA!!!!!
I decided to try using the power lead from the power antenna. And it worked! My antenna was broken when I bought the car, but I may fix it, however I will describe how to get amp power through the antenna plug.
HOW TO USE THE ANTENNA LEAD TO SWITCH ON THE SUBWOOFER AMP
Look up how to fix your LS antenna here: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/powerantenna.html
There are good pics, but I wouldn't follow all of it to a tee (T?). Basically, use it as a reference on how to remove the panels to GET TO the antenna.
If you don't need pics, let me describe it simply. Essentially, if you take the tool kit bolts out (4), the spare cover out, and the plastic thing on the left side of your trunk out, you are part way there.
Pull off the cover on the wall (the panel that has the tool kit built in), unbolt the antenna from its support (2 bottom nuts), unplug the white plug that send the signal to the antenna unit. It's the one set that goes from the front of the car to the antenna unit, you should be able to find it.
The wire that sends power to the antenna is RED AND BLACK. It is the center wire of the plug. All you have to do is look under the black tubing and you can easily spot it. Now here is where you can do one of three things:
1) Cut the black tubing that holds the wires together. Go along the wires and expose more useable area of the wires.
Locate the power wire (RED AND BLACK). Cut it and splice in a piece of wire that will be long enough to run to the REMOTE terminal of the amp.
Make sure to tape (or shrink wrap or wire nut) everything so there isn't any risk of grounding it out.
Re-install antenna. Both the amp and antenna should work.
2) Take a length of wire and insert it into the hole of the plug for the power (it's the one in the middle). Tape the wire into place securely, then wrap the whole plug in electrical tape. Make sure the lead wire won't pop out (give it a light tug). Run your wire to the amp and it's good to go.
Re-install or remove antenna. Either way, the antenna is dead to you at this point.
This is the method I used, but will gladly update this when I (a) Fix my antenna or (b) shave the antenna. I hate the radio, I have satellite or mp3. If anything, I'd do a little rinky dink Euro style one. But that's a post for later.
3) (And this one was only a thought) Take the wire, jam it into the hole and then attempt to clip it back together. I have seen many cars with power going from fuse boxes to radar detectors or 12v sockets by doing this, similarly, with a wire crammed under a fuse. If it were to work, and the wire stayed in tact, I would electrical tape it, seal it shut, put it back together and it would be no muss, no fuss, everything works. But I won't vouch for it.
That's it for now, pics to come soon.
First off, I have a leak in my trunk somewhere (NOT part of the sub install, don't worry). The bottom of my speaker box has absorbed a bit of water and I think I may have to rebuild it. So, if I had to add some advice for the box install, it would be this:
Put the box up on something. Get some rubber feet, maybe, or put some slider rails on it (like skis, kind of). Heck, even just a floormat or two. But if you have a leaky trunk, fix that before the box goes in.
Also, I used an audio wire setup with the RCA's and a "remote" wire built into that. And by wire, I mean a piece of metal that is finer than baby hair and snaps very easily. I have been limping along with this setup for 3 cars now. ANYWAY, the remote wire turns on the amp when the radio turns on. The same thing happens with the power antenna... so the radio sends a signal to BOTH if you split it (or have 2 blue wires)... so....
EUREKA!!!!!
I decided to try using the power lead from the power antenna. And it worked! My antenna was broken when I bought the car, but I may fix it, however I will describe how to get amp power through the antenna plug.
HOW TO USE THE ANTENNA LEAD TO SWITCH ON THE SUBWOOFER AMP
Look up how to fix your LS antenna here: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/powerantenna.html
There are good pics, but I wouldn't follow all of it to a tee (T?). Basically, use it as a reference on how to remove the panels to GET TO the antenna.
If you don't need pics, let me describe it simply. Essentially, if you take the tool kit bolts out (4), the spare cover out, and the plastic thing on the left side of your trunk out, you are part way there.
Pull off the cover on the wall (the panel that has the tool kit built in), unbolt the antenna from its support (2 bottom nuts), unplug the white plug that send the signal to the antenna unit. It's the one set that goes from the front of the car to the antenna unit, you should be able to find it.
The wire that sends power to the antenna is RED AND BLACK. It is the center wire of the plug. All you have to do is look under the black tubing and you can easily spot it. Now here is where you can do one of three things:
1) Cut the black tubing that holds the wires together. Go along the wires and expose more useable area of the wires.
Locate the power wire (RED AND BLACK). Cut it and splice in a piece of wire that will be long enough to run to the REMOTE terminal of the amp.
Make sure to tape (or shrink wrap or wire nut) everything so there isn't any risk of grounding it out.
Re-install antenna. Both the amp and antenna should work.
2) Take a length of wire and insert it into the hole of the plug for the power (it's the one in the middle). Tape the wire into place securely, then wrap the whole plug in electrical tape. Make sure the lead wire won't pop out (give it a light tug). Run your wire to the amp and it's good to go.
Re-install or remove antenna. Either way, the antenna is dead to you at this point.
This is the method I used, but will gladly update this when I (a) Fix my antenna or (b) shave the antenna. I hate the radio, I have satellite or mp3. If anything, I'd do a little rinky dink Euro style one. But that's a post for later.
3) (And this one was only a thought) Take the wire, jam it into the hole and then attempt to clip it back together. I have seen many cars with power going from fuse boxes to radar detectors or 12v sockets by doing this, similarly, with a wire crammed under a fuse. If it were to work, and the wire stayed in tact, I would electrical tape it, seal it shut, put it back together and it would be no muss, no fuss, everything works. But I won't vouch for it.
That's it for now, pics to come soon.
Last edited by rojo412; 03-08-10 at 07:36 PM.
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