Paint Job Estimates
#1
Paint Job Estimates
I'm curious about having my '91 repainted the same colour (mocha?). Has about ten small hail dents on the side panels next to the trunk lid, on both sides. Other than that the body is in great shape, no dents or dings.
I just want it to look factory. Anyone else had their car repainted back stock? How much did it run you?
Thanks!
I just want it to look factory. Anyone else had their car repainted back stock? How much did it run you?
Thanks!
#4
Lexus Test Driver
#5
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
There are variations within the paint code as well. Some were heavier in metallic, some had more yellowing in the pearl coat. I've personally mixed PPG paint that had preset formulas based on factory specs, but when I sprayed it on the car, it was very noticeable.
There is an actual camera that a paint shop uses that will determine the closest formula that will match your paint. It is not a 100% match, but will get you closer than those preset formulas. Of coruse, a good painter will also be able to eyeball it and perfect the formula to coming dead-on.
I just Duplicolored my front bumper today (quick repair) and I highly recommend against it.
There is an actual camera that a paint shop uses that will determine the closest formula that will match your paint. It is not a 100% match, but will get you closer than those preset formulas. Of coruse, a good painter will also be able to eyeball it and perfect the formula to coming dead-on.
I just Duplicolored my front bumper today (quick repair) and I highly recommend against it.
#6
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
There are variations within the paint code as well. Some were heavier in metallic, some had more yellowing in the pearl coat. I've personally mixed PPG paint that had preset formulas based on factory specs, but when I sprayed it on the car, it was very noticeable.
There is an actual camera that a paint shop uses that will determine the closest formula that will match your paint. It is not a 100% match, but will get you closer than those preset formulas. Of coruse, a good painter will also be able to eyeball it and perfect the formula to coming dead-on.
I just Duplicolored my front bumper today (quick repair) and I highly recommend against it.
There is an actual camera that a paint shop uses that will determine the closest formula that will match your paint. It is not a 100% match, but will get you closer than those preset formulas. Of coruse, a good painter will also be able to eyeball it and perfect the formula to coming dead-on.
I just Duplicolored my front bumper today (quick repair) and I highly recommend against it.
This should not be an issue since OP wanted to repaint the entire car.
Expect to shell out $2000 minimum to expect a presentable car.
If you want to have a perfect finish using top of the line materials like BASF Glasurit clearcoat and wetsanded to zero orange peel, expect $4000+
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#9
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Another estimate is to go to your local paint supply store / jobber and ask for the materials and see how much it would cost you.
Get a price quote on the basecoat. The high-end one in OEM color would be something like PPG Envirobase. The cost of that would depend on color.
Then get a quote on the clearcoat and activator. A high-end one would be something like BASF Glasurit or House of Kolor.
The cost for quality to high-end materials should amount to 500 to 1,000 bucks and the rest is all labor. Many shop would try to not disclose you the exact line of materials that they would use as they try to penny pinch. They would say, "Oh we use PPG but PPG as a chemical company have many many different lines".
Materials aside, labor is probably the most important as it cost more than the materials and it is a deciding factor on how the car looks. Are they just filling in simple dings? Or are they filling complex high and low areas that is not visible in the old OEM paint but will become very apparent when the new paint is applied?
Get a price quote on the basecoat. The high-end one in OEM color would be something like PPG Envirobase. The cost of that would depend on color.
Then get a quote on the clearcoat and activator. A high-end one would be something like BASF Glasurit or House of Kolor.
The cost for quality to high-end materials should amount to 500 to 1,000 bucks and the rest is all labor. Many shop would try to not disclose you the exact line of materials that they would use as they try to penny pinch. They would say, "Oh we use PPG but PPG as a chemical company have many many different lines".
Materials aside, labor is probably the most important as it cost more than the materials and it is a deciding factor on how the car looks. Are they just filling in simple dings? Or are they filling complex high and low areas that is not visible in the old OEM paint but will become very apparent when the new paint is applied?
#11
I just had my 90 LS repainted in the same color (black jade metallic). The original was two tone with black jade on top and grey on the bottom, but I had it repainted all black jade metallic which looks way better and much more modern in my opinion.
The car was partially dissasembled, repainted and even had a new windshield and moldings installed and I was out the door for $4,037, with 10 percent cash discount.
The car was partially dissasembled, repainted and even had a new windshield and moldings installed and I was out the door for $4,037, with 10 percent cash discount.
#12
Lead Lap
iTrader: (6)
Used the search on this site as well as this for comfirmation; http://www.touchuppaintonline.com/Lexus/LS400
#13
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2009
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My brother-in-law had my car painted when he owned it 2 years ago. He said he had the car stripped to bare metal and painted complete to "Lexus Standards" at a cost of 8k. Anybody know what "Lexus Standards" mean? He mentioned something special about the primer as well. They did do a nice job, I guess this is why he put a bra on it, which I removed because ir was making buff marks in certain areas. Anybody want a bra for a 93?
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