Coolant tank cap / low coolant?
10-07-09, 01:11 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Coolant tank cap / low coolant?
My cars coolant level is lower and lower when the engine is cold. I think its the cap, because I dont see any leaks anywhere and the pump only has about 20K on it. Could it be slowly evaporating?
I called the local Lexus dealer and he said that some of those had been changed because of a problem or something and wanted to know if I knew if my car had the changed top on the tank. I have no clue. Then he said that one cap was all that was available and if it wasnt changed, I would have to get all of that replaced with the sensor, etc. He has got to be joking right? He said if it had then the cap only was $19.
I dont want to run it low on coolant, but dont want to put in $25 coolant (pink) to go back out either.
If the car is not losing visible coolant, where could it be going? Its a very low loss, because I have put 30K on it and never had to add any, but its getting lower and lower in the tank.
I called the local Lexus dealer and he said that some of those had been changed because of a problem or something and wanted to know if I knew if my car had the changed top on the tank. I have no clue. Then he said that one cap was all that was available and if it wasnt changed, I would have to get all of that replaced with the sensor, etc. He has got to be joking right? He said if it had then the cap only was $19.
I dont want to run it low on coolant, but dont want to put in $25 coolant (pink) to go back out either.
If the car is not losing visible coolant, where could it be going? Its a very low loss, because I have put 30K on it and never had to add any, but its getting lower and lower in the tank.
10-07-09, 02:15 PM
#3
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Thanks. Pressure check the system? How many hundreds is this gonna cost me?
The leak is so slow, it has to be evaporation I would think. I have been all under this car and there were no leaks and the Toyota tech that recently put on the fan bracket bearing said that the water pump looked fine and was not leaking. It only has 20K on it and its an OEM Toyota pump. It should last at least 100K more miles.
The exhaust dont smell like coolant and I have heard that head gasket issues are almost non-existant on these cars. It never overheats either- not unless I decide I am just going to let it run completely out of coolant out of frustration.
The leak is so slow, it has to be evaporation I would think. I have been all under this car and there were no leaks and the Toyota tech that recently put on the fan bracket bearing said that the water pump looked fine and was not leaking. It only has 20K on it and its an OEM Toyota pump. It should last at least 100K more miles.
The exhaust dont smell like coolant and I have heard that head gasket issues are almost non-existant on these cars. It never overheats either- not unless I decide I am just going to let it run completely out of coolant out of frustration.
Last edited by 91LS400LEX; 10-08-09 at 08:38 PM.
10-07-09, 03:33 PM
#4
Keep some Toyota Red coolant mixed 50-50 with distilled water in a gallon milk jug and add as needed. If it's slow as you say, it won't cost you near as much as all the ATF you've poured into your PS.
If it's any consolation, it's what I do with my 95 and add it when I notice the resevoir is a little low. Once every couple months.
If it's any consolation, it's what I do with my 95 and add it when I notice the resevoir is a little low. Once every couple months.
10-07-09, 06:39 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Keep some Toyota Red coolant mixed 50-50 with distilled water in a gallon milk jug and add as needed. If it's slow as you say, it won't cost you near as much as all the ATF you've poured into your PS.
If it's any consolation, it's what I do with my 95 and add it when I notice the resevoir is a little low. Once every couple months.
If it's any consolation, it's what I do with my 95 and add it when I notice the resevoir is a little low. Once every couple months.
I have had the car for over 2 years and never had to add any.... just noticed it was low... and slightly lower than it was before.
Yeah, we have an air compressor, but will try the adding water deal first... hopefully it wont dilute to the point of compromising the freeze point level.
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10-08-09, 10:01 AM
#8
These cars have a well documented leak from the expansion tank around the coolant level sensor. This was a design flaw and is why toyota changed the design of the tank. Unfortunately the new tank, which i believe is part #16482-50010, also requires a new coolant level sensor as the old one does not work with the new tank. Look closely around the coolant level sensor to see if that is where you are losing coolant. If so, you might try removing the sensor and applying some permatex sealant (one that is resistant to coolant) around the o-ring and seeing if that stops your leak.
10-08-09, 01:04 PM
#9
Thanks. Pressure check the system? How many hundreds is this gonna cost me?
At this point though, after all of the trouble I have recently had with the PS leaks, which have been fixed, I wouldnt care if the thing ran completely out of coolant and destroyed the engine.
I cannot afford anything else major - not with a big doctor bill I just paid... I dont want to drain my savings... thats emergency money.
At this point though, after all of the trouble I have recently had with the PS leaks, which have been fixed, I wouldnt care if the thing ran completely out of coolant and destroyed the engine.
I cannot afford anything else major - not with a big doctor bill I just paid... I dont want to drain my savings... thats emergency money.
2nd thing, If your that upset you about putting fluid in there, why not just run green stuff? Or keep diluting it with water as it's relatively free, however I wouldn't recommend that if you live in a cold environment as water freezes and will crack your block. But c'mon, don't get that upset there is a happy medium between filling it up with the good stuff, and running it bone dry.
3rd thing, if you would like to have you system pressure check most places will do it from $50-$100 depending on who you go to. That is also for the check, that isn't to replace anything... Also saying that, you should make friends with a local mechanic and it would cost you far less.
My 2 cents, if you really can't spend the bucks, just buy 1 gallon of antifreeze, and dilute it with 1.5-2 gallons of water, so it's roughly 35-45% that way you can protect your block, and wallet.
Are you sure it's Pink? Pink is Super Long Life, it has a yellow cap. Red is Long Life, and has a red cap. Pink only comes 50/50 and comes in cars from like 04' and newer. SLL supersedes LL, therefore SLL is more or less the same, however SLL is organic, and last upward for 60,000 miles, LL is only supposed to go 30,000. You can even add red to pink, it just turns it back to LL which is supposed to be change at 30k. If you add pink to red, it's still red, so 30k. If you add green to pink, red, or blue, it turns it back into normal coolant, which is supposed to be changed ever 15k, which is close to every year. However.... If you come into any Toyota dealer with anything other than red or pink, you will get asked to switch back.... Maybe not always, but we sure did.
10-08-09, 05:56 PM
#10
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
These cars have a well documented leak from the expansion tank around the coolant level sensor. This was a design flaw and is why toyota changed the design of the tank. Unfortunately the new tank, which i believe is part #16482-50010, also requires a new coolant level sensor as the old one does not work with the new tank. Look closely around the coolant level sensor to see if that is where you are losing coolant. If so, you might try removing the sensor and applying some permatex sealant (one that is resistant to coolant) around the o-ring and seeing if that stops your leak.
1st thing, relax.........
2nd thing, If your that upset you about putting fluid in there, why not just run green stuff? Or keep diluting it with water as it's relatively free, however I wouldn't recommend that if you live in a cold environment as water freezes and will crack your block. But c'mon, don't get that upset there is a happy medium between filling it up with the good stuff, and running it bone dry.
3rd thing, if you would like to have you system pressure check most places will do it from $50-$100 depending on who you go to. That is also for the check, that isn't to replace anything... Also saying that, you should make friends with a local mechanic and it would cost you far less.
My 2 cents, if you really can't spend the bucks, just buy 1 gallon of antifreeze, and dilute it with 1.5-2 gallons of water, so it's roughly 35-45% that way you can protect your block, and wallet.
Are you sure it's Pink? Pink is Super Long Life, it has a yellow cap. Red is Long Life, and has a red cap. Pink only comes 50/50 and comes in cars from like 04' and newer. SLL supersedes LL, therefore SLL is more or less the same, however SLL is organic, and last upward for 60,000 miles, LL is only supposed to go 30,000. You can even add red to pink, it just turns it back to LL which is supposed to be change at 30k. If you add pink to red, it's still red, so 30k. If you add green to pink, red, or blue, it turns it back into normal coolant, which is supposed to be changed ever 15k, which is close to every year. However.... If you come into any Toyota dealer with anything other than red or pink, you will get asked to switch back.... Maybe not always, but we sure did.
2nd thing, If your that upset you about putting fluid in there, why not just run green stuff? Or keep diluting it with water as it's relatively free, however I wouldn't recommend that if you live in a cold environment as water freezes and will crack your block. But c'mon, don't get that upset there is a happy medium between filling it up with the good stuff, and running it bone dry.
3rd thing, if you would like to have you system pressure check most places will do it from $50-$100 depending on who you go to. That is also for the check, that isn't to replace anything... Also saying that, you should make friends with a local mechanic and it would cost you far less.
My 2 cents, if you really can't spend the bucks, just buy 1 gallon of antifreeze, and dilute it with 1.5-2 gallons of water, so it's roughly 35-45% that way you can protect your block, and wallet.
Are you sure it's Pink? Pink is Super Long Life, it has a yellow cap. Red is Long Life, and has a red cap. Pink only comes 50/50 and comes in cars from like 04' and newer. SLL supersedes LL, therefore SLL is more or less the same, however SLL is organic, and last upward for 60,000 miles, LL is only supposed to go 30,000. You can even add red to pink, it just turns it back to LL which is supposed to be change at 30k. If you add pink to red, it's still red, so 30k. If you add green to pink, red, or blue, it turns it back into normal coolant, which is supposed to be changed ever 15k, which is close to every year. However.... If you come into any Toyota dealer with anything other than red or pink, you will get asked to switch back.... Maybe not always, but we sure did.
I dont live in that cold of a climate... I am in the southeast, but the upper southeast... we RARELY get below 5°F even in the harshest of winters and cold snaps. Our average low in mid January is 26°, so we fair much better than most folks to the north.
For now, I will just add the water and keep a check on it.... maybe like someone said, it could be where it had a air-pocket from the water pump change or something.
I was wanting to get this car back up to par and give it to my mother, because she loves it, but to be honest with you, I am seriously considering talking her into taking my 1988 Mercedes instead and promise she will have less headaches, as I have had no issues with that car and its much easier to service (being an inline 6-cylinder car and a less complex car overall)... nothing like the many, but tiny and costly issues that this well cared-for and well-maintained LS has given me. The LS has reached the age where it need/needed valve cover gaskets, motor mounts, power steering attention, etc. I have managed to so far get the power steering leaks repaired and the transmission mounts replaced. Once I get this potential coolant leak/evaporation solved, all it will need are vc gaskets and motor mounts... and the screens cleaned on the ps pump and rack to see if that will stop the rumbling shudder when I turn at low speeds.
Unlike my last LS400, which as a 1990 with 269K when I sold it, didnt have any of these mentioned problems, except the radio eventually stopped working. Go figure. I wonder how long it will be before it goes on this current LS? Oh, it will also need/use front shocks too... you can feel every little bump in the road that the front tires hit. Thanks again.
Last edited by 91LS400LEX; 10-08-09 at 08:41 PM.
10-08-09, 08:45 PM
#11
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
You know I just remembered that when the Toyota mechanic I know replaced the fan bracket bearing, he said some coolant was lost, but he only had green coolant in his garage, so he didnt add any. I am guessing that COULD be why it was getting low, but it was just strange its getting lower. Maybe it was air. I will add some water and see.
10-09-09, 09:16 AM
#12
Hey, as it never hurts to ask... Ask him if he has a cooling system pressure checker..... If he doesn't shell him the money to go rent one from Autozone, as they let you rent them for little to no cost. Once you can verify that there are no leaks, then you can surely say there is no issues, only air trapped in your system. All it is, is a air pump that screws on the radiator cap hole, and pressurizes the the "sealed" cooling system by pumping air in there. If the air leaks out, you will see the gauge on the pump drop, if you don't have a leak you will see the number on the guage stay put for more than 10 mins. Typically you will lose a little bit of PSI because there is always going to be air in the system as the reservoir is half air. It is normal to have to pump it back up to the recommended pressure. The idea is to watch the gauge to see if you are loosing psi, if you are you have a leak.. If you can see it, there's your leak, if you can't see it, then you have an internal leak.... Just trying to help.
Oh... if it does get below 32*, I wouldn't just run straight water, at least have a little coolant in there. Too bad your not in Minnesota, I'd do it for $25. But try autozone, you could do it yourself if you can see where the leak, if there is one, is coming from.
Just trying to help.
Oh... if it does get below 32*, I wouldn't just run straight water, at least have a little coolant in there. Too bad your not in Minnesota, I'd do it for $25. But try autozone, you could do it yourself if you can see where the leak, if there is one, is coming from.
Just trying to help.
10-09-09, 06:58 PM
#13
Exactly. Take some to time to figure it out and assume that the car is still going to get you where you need to go as you experiment.
Any cooling system with an expansion tank can trip up people on the level for the simple reason that coolant expands pretty quickly when the engine warms up. Always check the coolant stone cold the next morning after any repair involving the cooling system because that is what it takes to get a proper reading. Also, many people do not run the engine at a sufficient rpm with the heater valve fully open to help drive air out of the heater core and all the other air pocket spots, so they blithely assume that they have filled that sucker up and are upset the next morning when they have to top it up again. Any time the engine is running even only a few minutes from stone cold, you will NOT get an accurate level in the expansion reservoir until you check it stone cold the next morning.
Colin
Any cooling system with an expansion tank can trip up people on the level for the simple reason that coolant expands pretty quickly when the engine warms up. Always check the coolant stone cold the next morning after any repair involving the cooling system because that is what it takes to get a proper reading. Also, many people do not run the engine at a sufficient rpm with the heater valve fully open to help drive air out of the heater core and all the other air pocket spots, so they blithely assume that they have filled that sucker up and are upset the next morning when they have to top it up again. Any time the engine is running even only a few minutes from stone cold, you will NOT get an accurate level in the expansion reservoir until you check it stone cold the next morning.
Colin
10-09-09, 08:46 PM
#14
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Thanks for the advice/replies. I will try all of that as needed.
Strange, when the engine is at normal operating temperature and I shut it off and raise the hood, the level is only slightly low.
Strange, when the engine is at normal operating temperature and I shut it off and raise the hood, the level is only slightly low.
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