On the non-interference ODB1 1UZFE (including my year 1993) if you follow the Factory Service manual instructions - or any other instructions found around the internet including LXLS's - which state to use the alignment marks on the new belt and then put the tensioner in as the last step (and release it of course).... you will, without fail, have the timing thrown off by the tension.
The way you fix that (apparently) is to put the belt on the Crank (not the cams) off by one tooth. Again, I have to 50% chance it as to weather it's off by one tooth clockwise or counter-clockwise... because no one has been able to give me a for sure answer on that point. But hey, why not do this a 4th and maybe even a 5th time just because the process is proper bent right? ;B
From what I can tell looking at this issue from an engineering standpoint, it's to do with the valve spring relief on the non-interference 1UZ. Unlike the VVT-i models (as shown in those links above)), where the spring relief on the valves doesn't seem to be effected by this (again, not sure why exactly) - it appears that when you apply the tensioner at the end the cams are pulled counter clockwise - so when the crank is then put to TDC (or 0 / zero) after two rotations you end up with both the exhaust and the intake sides being advanced by what equates to 1 tooth at the crank. So, when you get the crank to around .... 5 degrees off (before, to the left of 0 / Zero) then the cams are aligned perfectly, but obviously the crank is not at zero.
So - that's what I can speak to so far.
And yes - it's a huge time sink tearing the whole front of your motor off each time to do this - which is exacerbated by the F'n HYDRO FAN PUMP (oh let me count the way I loath that design..) that you have to drain of it's trans fluid each time. And of course the removal of the whole fan assembly in the process. And while I'm at it - you know the top rear 14MM bolt on the AC Compressor.. the one located IN BETWEEN THE METAL FREON LINE HOOK-UPS AND THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD SHIELD... the one you HAVE to release so you can shift the compressor downward enough to let the bottom most flange of the hydro pump housing slip past the AC drive pulley in order to remove. Yeah - Top marks for that little gem 1UZ engineers... love you for that one. /me smacks forehead!
sha4000 - you have no idea how envious I am of your 98+ setup without the HydroFan pump system
You know - writing all this - I'm somewhat amazed I am able to do what I have to this car. It's really not easy stuff.