How to fix powersteering leak on 98-2000 LS400's
#17
Lexus Champion
Because in order to replace that seal you would have to tear a lot of the pump down and might as well rebuild the whole pump. If that seal had failed then I would be getting a leak out the front of the pump/shaft and on inspection it was fine. Toyota/lexus only recommends to replace it when you disassemble the whole thing.
The seals arent the problem, for some reason Toyota has the crappiest quality O'rings ever! I contemplated finding a Honda one to replace it with. lol
The seals arent the problem, for some reason Toyota has the crappiest quality O'rings ever! I contemplated finding a Honda one to replace it with. lol
Great idea... find a Honda O ring that is the same size and that may do the trick.
Great posting
BTW, how many miles are on your LS400?
Last Q: Is there a recommendation for cleaning an alternator that has some fluid dripped on it that has not yet failed?
#18
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...ndpost&p=30429
#21
Greatly appreciate this write-up. Having just finished doing this as a result, I thought I'd add a little value by listing the part numbers needed. (MY98)
O-ring #1 - 90301-53007
O-ring #2 - 90301-18013
O-ring #3 - 90301-11016
O-ring #1 - 90301-53007
O-ring #2 - 90301-18013
O-ring #3 - 90301-11016
#22
This is great information; thanks for the tutorial. One thing that was not mentioned in your fix, that shows up a lot on posts for the earlier models, is the Idle Control Valve. My '99 has what appears to be the same valve on the PS pump, and it appears to be leaking. However, since the fan blows any dripping fluid all over the pump, and alternator, it's hard to tell exactly where my leak is coming from, despite wiping it clean and checking several times. Do the '98-'00 series have the same problems with the ICV leaking that earlier models did, or do the O-rings usually solve the problem? I guess that valve is still pretty expensive, based on earlier posts; I'd hate to replace it if it's not necessary. Thanks,
Steve
Steve
#23
Great tutorial
This was very informative thanks! I don't know if anybody said this yet because i skimmed through kind of but before people go in and take out the pump(which for me was a really hard because the bolts were so tight it seemed as if it was welded! Check the hose clamps to see if they need replacing. In many cases like mine it leaks from the hose because the clamps have gotten weak. Mine was so weak that i could pinch it with fingers. But if do see that it leaking from the pump in the spots that Zero_one saw it leak from then you can go ahead and change the rings.
#24
Lexus Champion
does anyone know what are the most common leak areas for 95-97 models in order of how common?
hi pressure hose?
low pressure hose?
reservoir o-ring?
pump o-rings?
rack?
I have cleaned the underside of the car, and yet when I go back to look, the leak seems to be from ALL of the ABOVE
hi pressure hose?
low pressure hose?
reservoir o-ring?
pump o-rings?
rack?
I have cleaned the underside of the car, and yet when I go back to look, the leak seems to be from ALL of the ABOVE
#25
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
If you are comfortable doing so this method works well for finding PS leaks.
obviously you need some common sense to be sure you do not kill/injure yourself, damage your car or other property by doing something stupid.
If you have the ability to do so on a alignment rack is ideal but if you know of a place like a loading ramp for trucks (or anywhere that you can hang the nose of the car off of), and have a buddy you can trust, drive the car right to the edge so the wheels are close to the drop off with the nose is hanging over the edge as much as possible. Do this as soon after you have cleaned everything as not to obscure everything with excess fluid. With the belly pan off, the car in park and the e-brake applied, have your buddy turn the wheels from side to side right to lock and hold for a second before swinging back the other way to do the same. This will spike the pressure in the system and any leaks should start to run quickly or spray out and be obvious. Be careful as you do not want to have any PS fluid sprayed in your eyes, so wear safety glasses or eye-protection of some sort. The biggest leaks should be fairly obvious and easy to spot. If you are leaking at junctions, if possible check the tightness of connections and adjust where possible or replace gaskets/seals/washers and retest. if adjustment is not possible or gaskets/seals/washers are not the source of the leaks, replace the parts as needed. I have seen many cars where previous mechanics and even home-wrenchers have forgotten to install crush washers, seals or cross-threaded fittings causing major leaks so be sure to assess your leak properly. It might be as simple as you are missing a crush-washer or seal somewhere and only need a $0.10 part vs a $50,100,500 part or parts!
Fluid leaks in pressurized systems are ALWAYS a path of least resistance. However, fixing one leak can show another leak in a different place simply as that is now the weakest link in the system.
Aside from going through the entire system and replacing everything, you're going to have to go step by step to isolate and fix all your leaks as you find them.
good luck
obviously you need some common sense to be sure you do not kill/injure yourself, damage your car or other property by doing something stupid.
If you have the ability to do so on a alignment rack is ideal but if you know of a place like a loading ramp for trucks (or anywhere that you can hang the nose of the car off of), and have a buddy you can trust, drive the car right to the edge so the wheels are close to the drop off with the nose is hanging over the edge as much as possible. Do this as soon after you have cleaned everything as not to obscure everything with excess fluid. With the belly pan off, the car in park and the e-brake applied, have your buddy turn the wheels from side to side right to lock and hold for a second before swinging back the other way to do the same. This will spike the pressure in the system and any leaks should start to run quickly or spray out and be obvious. Be careful as you do not want to have any PS fluid sprayed in your eyes, so wear safety glasses or eye-protection of some sort. The biggest leaks should be fairly obvious and easy to spot. If you are leaking at junctions, if possible check the tightness of connections and adjust where possible or replace gaskets/seals/washers and retest. if adjustment is not possible or gaskets/seals/washers are not the source of the leaks, replace the parts as needed. I have seen many cars where previous mechanics and even home-wrenchers have forgotten to install crush washers, seals or cross-threaded fittings causing major leaks so be sure to assess your leak properly. It might be as simple as you are missing a crush-washer or seal somewhere and only need a $0.10 part vs a $50,100,500 part or parts!
Fluid leaks in pressurized systems are ALWAYS a path of least resistance. However, fixing one leak can show another leak in a different place simply as that is now the weakest link in the system.
Aside from going through the entire system and replacing everything, you're going to have to go step by step to isolate and fix all your leaks as you find them.
good luck
#26
If you are comfortable doing so this method works well for finding PS leaks.
obviously you need some common sense to be sure you do not kill/injure yourself, damage your car or other property by doing something stupid.
If you have the ability to do so on a alignment rack is ideal but if you know of a place like a loading ramp for trucks (or anywhere that you can hang the nose of the car off of), and have a buddy you can trust, drive the car right to the edge so the wheels are close to the drop off with the nose is hanging over the edge as much as possible. Do this as soon after you have cleaned everything as not to obscure everything with excess fluid. With the belly pan off, the car in park and the e-brake applied, have your buddy turn the wheels from side to side right to lock and hold for a second before swinging back the other way to do the same. This will spike the pressure in the system and any leaks should start to run quickly or spray out and be obvious. Be careful as you do not want to have any PS fluid sprayed in your eyes, so wear safety glasses or eye-protection of some sort. The biggest leaks should be fairly obvious and easy to spot. If you are leaking at junctions, if possible check the tightness of connections and adjust where possible or replace gaskets/seals/washers and retest. if adjustment is not possible or gaskets/seals/washers are not the source of the leaks, replace the parts as needed. I have seen many cars where previous mechanics and even home-wrenchers have forgotten to install crush washers, seals or cross-threaded fittings causing major leaks so be sure to assess your leak properly. It might be as simple as you are missing a crush-washer or seal somewhere and only need a $0.10 part vs a $50,100,500 part or parts!
Fluid leaks in pressurized systems are ALWAYS a path of least resistance. However, fixing one leak can show another leak in a different place simply as that is now the weakest link in the system.
Aside from going through the entire system and replacing everything, you're going to have to go step by step to isolate and fix all your leaks as you find them.
good luck
obviously you need some common sense to be sure you do not kill/injure yourself, damage your car or other property by doing something stupid.
If you have the ability to do so on a alignment rack is ideal but if you know of a place like a loading ramp for trucks (or anywhere that you can hang the nose of the car off of), and have a buddy you can trust, drive the car right to the edge so the wheels are close to the drop off with the nose is hanging over the edge as much as possible. Do this as soon after you have cleaned everything as not to obscure everything with excess fluid. With the belly pan off, the car in park and the e-brake applied, have your buddy turn the wheels from side to side right to lock and hold for a second before swinging back the other way to do the same. This will spike the pressure in the system and any leaks should start to run quickly or spray out and be obvious. Be careful as you do not want to have any PS fluid sprayed in your eyes, so wear safety glasses or eye-protection of some sort. The biggest leaks should be fairly obvious and easy to spot. If you are leaking at junctions, if possible check the tightness of connections and adjust where possible or replace gaskets/seals/washers and retest. if adjustment is not possible or gaskets/seals/washers are not the source of the leaks, replace the parts as needed. I have seen many cars where previous mechanics and even home-wrenchers have forgotten to install crush washers, seals or cross-threaded fittings causing major leaks so be sure to assess your leak properly. It might be as simple as you are missing a crush-washer or seal somewhere and only need a $0.10 part vs a $50,100,500 part or parts!
Fluid leaks in pressurized systems are ALWAYS a path of least resistance. However, fixing one leak can show another leak in a different place simply as that is now the weakest link in the system.
Aside from going through the entire system and replacing everything, you're going to have to go step by step to isolate and fix all your leaks as you find them.
good luck
#27
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: FL
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Great writeup...still helping people three years later. What's the ACV and why is it ok to plug it? I just yanked dad's alternator and am doing the big pressure hose, figured I'd reseal the pump while I'm here. Don't want to climb into this thing again.