Lower ball joint change for 1999
06-02-08, 11:14 AM
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Lower ball joint change for 1999
I am new to posting and I am not a mechanic, but I changed my lower ball joints on my LS400 and thought I would give my thoughts and a few pics. If anyone has a problem with how I did something or advice I do not mind comments at all. I only did this because I do not see many DIY stuff for 1998-2000 models. I tried to keep it very basic as I know I would appreciate that because I need it that way. 
Anyway, here goes...
Jack car and support with jack stands. If you do not have an impact gun, loosen lug nuts before jacking the car up. Remove the wheel. Should look like this.
If you car still has the screws in the rotor remove them if you want to take off the rotor. I removed it because I thought it was easier and I did not want to damage it. The screws are a pain the a#% as they are easy to strip. An impact screwdriver makes it much easier. You then have to remove the caliper. There are 2 17mm bolts on the back. This is a shot from the car looking out.
Once you remove the bolts you will need to hold the caliper up so you do damage the brake lines or wires for sensors.
I just used some old wire and looped it to the spring or uca.
The manual says remove ABS speed sensor and wire connector. I did not I just made sure not to put strain on the wires.
Once the caliper is out of the way you need to remove the joint from the tie rod.
So remove the cotter pin and the 17 mm castle nut. Then attach the tie rod separator so that the screw from the separator is pushing the joint out from the screw side of the joint. So it will push the joint out from top to bottom. You can get the tool for like $10 from Autozone. Good tool to have and comes in handy a lot. This is what it looks like when separated.
Now you can move over to the ball joint. This is a bad picture of the cotter pin and castle nut. Picture is from under the car facing up.
Remove cotter pin and castle nut. I think the nut is 24 mm. I was doing this late at night so I used a 15/16 socket (do not tell anyone
). Then attach the separator in the exact opposite way as you did the tie rod and separate the ball joint. When the joints separate they separate with a loud bang. That is when you know you are done. Now that the ball joint is separated you need to remove the last 2 bolts holding the ball joint to the knuckle. They are on the bottom on either side of the ball joint. They are 17mm as well. One thing I found out is that on each side of the car when you either tightened or loosened the those 2 bolts (depending on the side of the car) the dust shield for the brakes would get pinned against the knuckle. I used a breaker bar or 1/2 ratchet to have metal on metal contact before the shield hit anything to keep it from getting bent. Been there done that. 
Installation is the reverse of removal. If you removed the rotor and do not have the screws, you can screw in a lug nut or two to hold the rotor still while you put the caliper back on. Make sure to torque everything to spec and I always like to replace cotter pins with new cotter pins. The ball joint kit should come with a new castle nut and cotter pin. You may also want to replace tie rods while down there, but you can always do it later if they are ok.
Torque settings: Wheels 76 ft/pounds; Brake caliper bolts 87 ft/pounds; tie rod end nut 43 ft/pounds; lower ball joint nut 112 ft/pounds; lower ball joint bolts 83 ft/pounds.
I hope this helps somebody. Thanks for reading.
Anyway, here goes...Jack car and support with jack stands. If you do not have an impact gun, loosen lug nuts before jacking the car up. Remove the wheel. Should look like this.
If you car still has the screws in the rotor remove them if you want to take off the rotor. I removed it because I thought it was easier and I did not want to damage it. The screws are a pain the a#% as they are easy to strip. An impact screwdriver makes it much easier. You then have to remove the caliper. There are 2 17mm bolts on the back. This is a shot from the car looking out.
Once you remove the bolts you will need to hold the caliper up so you do damage the brake lines or wires for sensors.
I just used some old wire and looped it to the spring or uca.
The manual says remove ABS speed sensor and wire connector. I did not I just made sure not to put strain on the wires.
Once the caliper is out of the way you need to remove the joint from the tie rod.
So remove the cotter pin and the 17 mm castle nut. Then attach the tie rod separator so that the screw from the separator is pushing the joint out from the screw side of the joint. So it will push the joint out from top to bottom. You can get the tool for like $10 from Autozone. Good tool to have and comes in handy a lot. This is what it looks like when separated.
Now you can move over to the ball joint. This is a bad picture of the cotter pin and castle nut. Picture is from under the car facing up.
Remove cotter pin and castle nut. I think the nut is 24 mm. I was doing this late at night so I used a 15/16 socket (do not tell anyone
). Then attach the separator in the exact opposite way as you did the tie rod and separate the ball joint. When the joints separate they separate with a loud bang. That is when you know you are done. Now that the ball joint is separated you need to remove the last 2 bolts holding the ball joint to the knuckle. They are on the bottom on either side of the ball joint. They are 17mm as well. One thing I found out is that on each side of the car when you either tightened or loosened the those 2 bolts (depending on the side of the car) the dust shield for the brakes would get pinned against the knuckle. I used a breaker bar or 1/2 ratchet to have metal on metal contact before the shield hit anything to keep it from getting bent. Been there done that. Installation is the reverse of removal. If you removed the rotor and do not have the screws, you can screw in a lug nut or two to hold the rotor still while you put the caliper back on. Make sure to torque everything to spec and I always like to replace cotter pins with new cotter pins. The ball joint kit should come with a new castle nut and cotter pin. You may also want to replace tie rods while down there, but you can always do it later if they are ok. Torque settings: Wheels 76 ft/pounds; Brake caliper bolts 87 ft/pounds; tie rod end nut 43 ft/pounds; lower ball joint nut 112 ft/pounds; lower ball joint bolts 83 ft/pounds.
I hope this helps somebody. Thanks for reading.
06-03-08, 07:07 AM
#3
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I need to do this on my 99...how was the ride afterwards, noticeably smoother? I have new shocks that helped some but I think my ride is still being hurt by old joints/rods/bushings.
06-05-08, 02:14 PM
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It had the clunk over speed humps and things. Went away completely. The ball joints were pretty shot when I removed them.
06-05-08, 04:51 PM
#5
Here is a Hint for those who are about to do their lower balljoints. It'll save you PLENTY of time.
You do not need to remove the calipers at all. What you need to do is remove the (2) lower balljoint bolts first. Once you're done doing that, you can lift the whole assembly off; therefore, exposing the nut for the tie rod.
As for the dust shield bending, attach the tie rod first and then tighten the two bolts for the balljoints. That way the steering rack will lock up when it's turned all the way. You'll be able to tighten the bolts without bending the shield.
I dont know about the LS specifically, but if you have the ABS sensor wire attached to the shock body via 10mm bolt, remove that before you do anything, otherwise you might pull on the wire and rip it.
You do not need to remove the calipers at all. What you need to do is remove the (2) lower balljoint bolts first. Once you're done doing that, you can lift the whole assembly off; therefore, exposing the nut for the tie rod.
As for the dust shield bending, attach the tie rod first and then tighten the two bolts for the balljoints. That way the steering rack will lock up when it's turned all the way. You'll be able to tighten the bolts without bending the shield.
I dont know about the LS specifically, but if you have the ABS sensor wire attached to the shock body via 10mm bolt, remove that before you do anything, otherwise you might pull on the wire and rip it.
08-07-09, 02:19 PM
#7
Upper ball joint is part of upper CA (in the middle - attached to steering knuckle). The only symptom of worn upper ball joint that I know of is wandering on the highway (steering). Changing the upper CA's is a breeze - easier than LBJ's. I changed mine at like 175,000 miles as I recall.
Great tutorial BTW
Great tutorial BTW
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08-10-09, 08:06 AM
#11
thanks for the info. I am just asking because i need to get in there and change out something. I'm getting the clunk, even the occasional pop sound when coming to a stop...... even think i'm getting a little wandering on the highway as well. Sad considering it's all stock and only has 55,000 miles on a 00'.
Just want to make sure when i set the date and order the parts i can knock it all out and not have to go in twice.
Just want to make sure when i set the date and order the parts i can knock it all out and not have to go in twice.
02-18-10, 08:49 AM
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hi
i have replaced my ball joints but in the process i think i messed something up, know every time the tire mover there is a loud growning noise, i have recenterd the rotor and the break pads but its still there, any suggestions?