nthach

Last year, I ordered a set of KYB GR-2 shocks, and I did the fronts when the front control arm bushings were installed. The backs were harder but still a DIY project. For anyone considering doing this job, here's how I did it:
Remove rear seat and optionally the rear package tray - I did this for more room.
Raise and support rear end - MAKE SURE YOUR CAR IS SUPPORTED ADEQUATELY.
Using a 14mm socket, remove the 3 nuts holding the shock mount cover on.
Remove the lower shock bolt from the rear knuckle with a 19mm socket and a cheater bar/impact wrench. This bolt is on tight. Once the nut is off, manhandle the sway bar so that the bolt can be pulled out.
From inside the car, remove the 3 14mm flange nuts with a deep socket.
You can now remove the shock assembly, the shock just dropped towards the floor and I was able to swing it out.

Now for the hard part - getting the new shock to install without a hitch. I did a search and most people had a hard time getting the new shock on and with the spring. Yes, you can rent a tool from Autozone to compress the coil spring. No, I don't recommend it. What made the job easy was to use a wall-mounted coil spring compressor that applied even pressure to the spring and it's much safer than turning the screws on the Autozone tool with your body/arms or both in the line of fire when the spring tension is released if the tool fails. The TSRM says to turn the shock mount until one of the studs is perpendicular from the shock eye. What that means is one of the mounting studs is in parallel with the outside of the shock eye, not the bushing inside of it. Also, make sure the stud heads in the mount fit into the cutouts on the boot flange.

If you don't have access to a wall-mounted spring compressor, a machine shop can carry out the above steps.

Now to reinstall the shocks, place the lower part into the upper control arm and use a floor jack to manipulate the rear axle so that the shock can move freely. Install the 14mm flange nuts onto the nuts. Use a drift and a mallet to drive the steel bushing in the rear knuckle flush. Using the jack, line up the shock eye and the lower bolt hole and shove the sway bar aside to insert the shock bolt. The TSRM says to install the bolt hand tight, install the wheels back on, bounce the car up and down a few times and then tighten the bolt. I'm going to do this step.

All in all, it's doable - the hard part is putting the new shock back together so that it installs right.

19psi

good write up.

pfantom68

It's not THAT bad actually. I did it all in my garage with very limited tools, little light, and a spring compressor from Autozone.

It just takes a little mechanical instinct, and a lot of wiggling. Your arms will be sore wiggling the whole strut and spring back and forth to get it to fit, but it will eventually go in if you get it just right.

(Oh, and I belive I used the Lexus scissor jack to move the assembly around when you're trying to install the new strut)

steveski

Nice write up - thanks for posting it. Yes, the scissor jack really helps when installing the strut assemble. I supported the lower suspension and use the jack to save my arms! For me changing the struts was pretty easy - removing the back seat was the worst part of the job believe it or not

DonCorleone

iTrader: (6)

I've done multiple coilover and shock/springs on an IS as well as shocks/springs on a few other cars and man I'm having a bear of a time doing the rears. Started my swap after a long day already so I might just be mentally fried. Left it unfinished and will try again later this week.

A fresh set of eyes might be in order, perhaps you guys would have some insight?

93, non-air suspension, throwing in new KYB GR-2 and California Customs lowering springs as well as new KYB strut mounts.

I have the endlinks disconnected from the rear sway bar
Caliper unbolted and out of the way
unbolted lower shock mount
unbolted upper shock cover
loosened shock bolt
unbolted 3 upper shock bolts

Couldn't get it out for the life of me with wiggling and pushing down on the hub. Was there awhile, had enough took an angle grinder and cut the spring. Voila.
Now trying to get the new assembly back in, but the day got the best of me so I packed it up and called it a night.

Where are you routing the assembly to get it in and out so easily? I don't have much room/angle due to the walled in upper area. Is there something else that needs to be unbolted that I'm not doing?

Please and thank you!

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

bolt up the 3 studs, jack up the hub and viola. oh and having a spring compressor would help also.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

lol wow, need spring compressor much?

acidfire52

I actually thought the rears were easier than the fronts.

DonCorleone

iTrader: (6)

Tried the spring compressor too, it interferred and gave me less room, but then again I was burned out from a long day so I'll give it another go tonight. Thanks.

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

eh for the rears u have to remove the backseat and etc, fronts u have to pop the UBJ out.

DonCorleone

iTrader: (6)

ya fronts were cake, straightforward as can be.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

once you unbolt them, the rears are easier as you dont have to mess with any ball joints.

DonCorleone

iTrader: (6)

After walking away for a couple days, I decided to give it another try again yesterday and SUCCESS! Lmao made it so difficult for myself the first time. Like I've read on the forum, the axle does not have to go out, just unbolt the caliper, endlink (driver and pass sides), upper bolt (endlink to sway bar) which allows sway bar to swing down and the nuts and bolts holding the shock in. didn't need to leave the spring compressors on to manuever it into the shock tower. Used the stock scissor jack under the hub to raise the arm which will allow you to swing the bottom of the shock down past the axle shaft and inward toward the differential and then slide the whole shebang out. Just a little adjusting of the height of the scissor jack but everything was easy and didn't require much muscle. Seems counter intuitive to me to raise the hub assembly vs pushing down on it, but it works by adjusting the suspension geometry enough to give the wiggle room needed. Install was reverse, stick the bottom of the shock/spring assembly into the upper A-arm and down toward the diff, then play with the scissor jack height and manuever the top into the boxed in tower and mount the top, then the bottom. Thanks fellas.

valex

When replacing the rear shocks, before you undo the top bolt and the shocks drops down, move the shock to the side a little bit, away from the axle and towards the front of the car. I didn't do it and when the shock dropped down it stuck against the CV boot and wouldn't move. I had to compress the spring on the car to take the pressure on the CV joint. Damaged the boot a tiny bit - very little hole, was able to patch it with HH-66 Vinyl Cement. It seems to work for right now, but I am ordering a new boo for future.

How difficult is the CV boot swap job? Shall I add more grease, since I lost a little bit before I noticed it on the inside of the wheel? What kind grease?