EGR Delete for LS400
#16
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hello sir i see you did an egr delete. here is my probelm i replaced my engine without and egr and put one that has an egr, now the problem is that the engine will not run unless you have your foot on the gas...
could the egr be the cause of this?
could the egr be the cause of this?
#17
The EGR valve is supposed to be closed at idle and only opens at higher engine speeds, so it should not be the cause of your problem. If you did not swap the ECU and engine harness to match your replacement engine, I expect there will be various problems with the engine and CEL lights.
#18
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dang it! and to make matters worse the engine i bought i have no idea what year it was for. what if i was to find a way to keep the egr valve open constantly will that help anything
#21
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but i would like to think in theory if there is a problem with the egr vavle and vaccum that would cause it not to idle.... am right in thinking along these lines?
#22
Lexus Test Driver
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#24
sha4000: Thanks for the picture. Looks like they did include the VIN on the LS400. I no longer have one to check on, but the LS430 does not have the VIN. I wonder what they do if the engine is replaced.
#25
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Thing is even just to get it started is a mission without flooring the gas pedal. And when it does start up it runs with like popping sounds. The moment you take your foot of the accelerator it dies instantly no warning at all.
As for CEL, NOTHING ever comes up. I have run a dignostic and the only code that comes up is the o2 sensor which I always had even with the previous engine. So no cel and no fault codes.
Can the vaccum cause it to just die instantly like that and also the popping sound?
Help :-(
As for CEL, NOTHING ever comes up. I have run a dignostic and the only code that comes up is the o2 sensor which I always had even with the previous engine. So no cel and no fault codes.
Can the vaccum cause it to just die instantly like that and also the popping sound?
Help :-(
#26
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I cut my egr tube right at the manifold and took silicone and fiberglass matting rolled it up and stuffed it in the hole. Then I took a cap and capped off the tube. Worked like a charm and simple. The only thing is my check engine light does come on.
#27
Thanks for the link -- But it isn't giving a how-to on , well how to do it -- sketchy diagram of a a break apart that I can't work by very well
I know very little about the EGR system,.. nor can I really see where all the piping goes --
Ideally, is it that I can cap this system off up 'top' easily and not even have to get down to my EGR pipe thats cracked, making this a reasonable solution .. Or does the pipe still need to be taken out?
I know very little about the EGR system,.. nor can I really see where all the piping goes --
Ideally, is it that I can cap this system off up 'top' easily and not even have to get down to my EGR pipe thats cracked, making this a reasonable solution .. Or does the pipe still need to be taken out?
#29
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I know this thread has all but died and is a million years old, but since I just yanked the motor on my '92 and came across this while googling, I figured I'd chime in. The EGR pipe is located on the back of the motor (up against the firewall) and to access it I'm pretty sure you would NEED to pull the motor. It is held on by the flange on the top that connects to your intake manifold, and the flange on the bottom that connects to the passenger side exhaust manifold (just above the cat). There is also a bracket on the back-middle of the engine that I believe is attached by a single 12mm bolt.
As far as eliminating it, you could remove the pipe itself (if you have access to it), cut the pipe off of the flanges, and weld 2 small circular plates to the flanges themselves to cover the holes where the pipe was. Once that is done, the old flanges become block of plates. Slap on some new gaskets and reattach.
As far as eliminating it, you could remove the pipe itself (if you have access to it), cut the pipe off of the flanges, and weld 2 small circular plates to the flanges themselves to cover the holes where the pipe was. Once that is done, the old flanges become block of plates. Slap on some new gaskets and reattach.
#30
Thanks for the link -- But it isn't giving a how-to on , well how to do it -- sketchy diagram of a a break apart that I can't work by very well
I know very little about the EGR system,.. nor can I really see where all the piping goes --
Ideally, is it that I can cap this system off up 'top' easily and not even have to get down to my EGR pipe thats cracked, making this a reasonable solution .. Or does the pipe still need to be taken out?
I know very little about the EGR system,.. nor can I really see where all the piping goes --
Ideally, is it that I can cap this system off up 'top' easily and not even have to get down to my EGR pipe thats cracked, making this a reasonable solution .. Or does the pipe still need to be taken out?