Masticore

ok everyone.....

my last update mentioned my patching the radiator....that was short lived..worked for about a day an a half with no overheats....
i have finally figured out what could be killing my ride. i noticed every single time i disconnected the return water hose to the radiator, it was always dry, so it finally hit me when i was thinking about computer watercooling systems....its the same principle on a car...DUH...there has to be water/coolant returning to the radiator to make the coolant circulate the engine....so this lead me to think the coolant stops in the engine and doesn't return to the radiator. My thoughts lead me to the most obvious....the Water Pump is broken and therefore not circulating the coolant...or the thermostat is stuck....i have also noticed telltale white wisps of smoke from the exhaust... but no coolant puddles, and somewhere along the way im leaking oil....haven't figured out the location, and i need an oil change...

Either way im replacing both...i have located a New water pump, new radiator, and thermostat all for a total of $200 shipped on ebay. i can replace the radiator myself and possibly the thermostat but that water pump is going to be a B*TCH..so i will have to have that done by a mech on a free weekend...i figure i'll have him put in the thermostat as well to save me the trouble.

i just wish it was a simpler way....the previous owner REALLY beat the ***** outta this car...it's so bad and im guessing at most of the problems and still learning, but being BROKE is no JOKE.....everyone i know is telling me to sell my car...i like it but the problems are killing me...it figured the minute i had money i couldn't find any around my area for sale,so i had to go all the way to MD to get this one, but now being broke, i see 1LS everywhere, even the Dominos Pizza Guy drives a black 1LS..but still none for sale...Did i get a lemon? i mean come on...128k on a 91 and i have had to get a new starter, and now the coolant system, and the TOYOTAship said i had to REPLACE the rack, ball joints, UCAs, LCAs, and PS Pump for it to "Pass Inspection", they quoted me $4500 in parts and labor. BTW the suspension has a floating feel to it...which i like...i am driving my moms 2003 Camry with 132k to work and the suspension is so firm you can feel every pothole and dip(My guess is that is considered OEM feel, if so, no thank you)
What Should i do?....Is It Worth It to replace or sell and get another 1LS?

Please CL, i am all ears on some advice.....i can't even drive my car now cause i don't wanna screw it even more...

-Phil-

Och

iTrader: (3)

Well, first of all, if you're broke and can't afford the repairs on your current LS, then the biggest mistake you can make is to sell it and buy another high mileage LS. I can almost guarantee you that it will suffer from at least some of the same issues. All these issues are pretty common, and Lexus parts aren't cheap. Your better bet would be to sell it and get a car that is cheap to maintain or repair, such as a 5th or 6th gen Honda Civic. They will have their problems, but the parts are dirt cheap, and labor usually costs less as well.

Now, as far as your floating feel, the LS is suposed to be softer than a Camry, but it shouldn't float. Your shocks are most likely shot, and springs are sagged, as well as strut bushings, etc. This will be the case with any used high mileage car, unless the previous owner replaced them recently.

Now, as far as your problem goes. First of all, I would replace the radiator if you know for a fact that it has a hole in it. But as far as your return hose being dry, it could be just that you're running low coolant, there should be coolant in all lines all the time, just not pumping if the thermostat is closed. If I were you, I would fill the coolant system after you replace the radioator, and "bleed it". The way it's done, is you fill it with the engine off, and once its topped off, replace the radiator cap. Then you take off the inlet housing bolt, start the engine, and blast the heat on full. Let the engine reach its normal temperature, and start adding coolant to the inlet housing until its full, let it run for a few more minutes, and add more coolant if necessary. Replace the inlet housing bolt, shut off the engine, let it cool, and add more coolant to the reservual until its at "cold" line.

Might as well replace the thermostat as well, it is very cheap, and it's very simple to replace it, just remove 2 bolts. One thing though, when I replaced my thermostat, I had to apply some red sealant between the plastic and metal housings - there was no gasket in there besides the thermostat o-ring, and it started leaking.

After you do that, and if it still overheats, then it is most likely your water pump. If you're going to replace the water pump, here are my suggestiongs.

1) By all means, use only OEM pump. It is difficult to replace it, and you dont want to be replacing it again if the crappy aftermarket pump fails 6 month later.

2) Since you will have to remove it, replace the timing belt as well, again only with OEM part. The marks on the old belt are probably long gone, and even though you can make new marks, its just too much pain in the ***, lining up a new belt is difficult as it is, and having to make new marks just increases the possibility of an error. Plus if your pump was leaking coolant onto the belt, you should defenately replace it.

3) Replace the two o-rings, the one from water bypass pipe that connects to the water pump, and the other from where the water pump connects to the inlet housing.

4) Replace crank seal

5) Inspect the two timing belt idler pulleys, and replace if they dont spin smoothly or make noise.

6) Inspect timing belt tensioner and replace if your able to compress it without a table press (for instance by pushing it with your hangs against a wall).

By the way, if your going to try bleeding your coolant system, but still suspect your water pump, fill it with distilled water instead of coolant. If your water pump proves to be bad, you will have to drain your coolant system to replace it, so it will be cheaper to drain water instead of coolant.

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

$4500 is not worth putting into the car for the PS and suspension. I would sell it for 3-4k and get another LS 400 first gen. Sounds like that car just wasn't maintained and is failing everwhere it possibly can for an LS.

Biggest thing is the money you are going to sink into it --

I have a 94 LS , with 229k on it -- And it drives flawlessly,.. Paid $4500.00 For it. Looks like it has about 50k on it, interior perfect, exterior very very good. Engine is smooth no tranny troubles , you get the idea.

I've had to fix the Climate control LCD. Put in a new PS pump. Replace a taillight because of a crack, and that is it that was required. (Taillight not even).

Without major maintenance it is good for another 60-100k easily.

If you could get out of the one you have for a reasonable price, and stick a little with it, you can get a 'clean' good functioning LS. You know what to look for now --

Just my opinion though.

As for inspection -- I'd check with the authorities on replacing the suspension parts for inspection. That doesn't fit imo. I highly doubt your car is 'unsafe' with worn joints and control arms.. The PS pump even shouldn't matter... It isn't a safety or emissions control.

Unless you are talking about a general mechanical inspection.. If so... pfft. Do the PS pump if you are having troubles out of it, or if it is leaking (check by the altenator) -- The suspension can wait.

My suspension has 14 yrs and 229,000 on it. It feels great. I replaced my motor mounts and tranny mount (I forgot about that) -- Made a huge difference. But, the suspension feels fine. Sure, it could use some new bushings and struts,.. but it isn't an immediate requirement, nor is the ride 'bad'. It rides better than any other car I drive (regardless of price) with the very old OEM suspension. Go figure.

I hate it for you ,being in that situation. The LS should be a car of pride and joy, not a headache of a mechanical nightmare.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

first thing you need to do is find a GOOD independant, going to a dealership is just stupid for these things. they CANT do it any better and they WILL overcharge you for parts.

Och

iTrader: (3)

Neo, a 1991 LS with 140K and the problems that its having wont sell for 3-4K. Maybe $1,200 tops.

Now the $4,500 to replace steering rack and some suspension parts sounds like a ridiculous amount of money. I would replace the rack, get the pump rebuilt (tutorial at lexls.com), and replace the ball joints and outer steering rods.

Now, the control arms do not fail (unless physically bent), its just the bushings that deteriorate. Have the arms removed, and and the bushings replaced.

The amount of money (roughly) you spend should be:
Steering rack - up to $700 parts and labor
Ball joints - $80 parts, $50 labor
Steering rods - $120 parts, $50 labor
Steering pump - around $200-300 with labor?
Suspension bushings - $500-700 all together?

Neofate

iTrader: (1)

His car doesn't sound like its in as bad of shape as he makes it out to be. It sounds like it has the typical problems, they have just added up. I bet the suspension rides 'ok' -- Someone buying the car wouldn't complain on a test drive in other words.

The PS is common, just depends on how bad it is acting,.. Replacing it isn't much anyhow.

Might be worth to fix the problems and then sell it for higher --

It all depends on the shape of the car.

Hows the interior? How clean?

Hows the paint?

Hows the engine itself? How is the tranny?

If it is limited to what you've described,.. keeping it while doing the repairs in order of priority might be your best bet if the aforementioned are in great condition.

What did you buy this for? That would make a difference to some degree.

Masticore

i think i will just keep it and prioritize the things she needs...i think im still in shock, i have only been able to drive my car a total of a month since Thanksgiving...GRRRRRR....i still have plans for this car.....just need to get the money flow....i'm just going through really rough times...i haven't even been able to unpack my stuff from my deployment, still in storage...MY 40" Flat TV, My Surround sound....all in storage....all because i live in a nut house and gotta stack doe to get out....gotta get the car fixed first though to get me to and from work.....i have to say it was a lot easier overseas....a lot less to worry about too....

19psi

learn how to work on it yourself. it's actually a very easy car to work on compared to many other high end imports. that's the key to having an older LS and not having a huge income.

5ofakind

Your best investment for your LS will be a set of factory Service Repair Manuals for your year.....check e-bay for them.....

avalon42

iTrader: (1)

There is a 3rd possibility on the return hose...did you check to see if the radiator cap is opening? That is the cheapest way you can go, I think there is an aftermarket one where you can leave the spring up so you can check to see if its blocked.

2nd thing to check is the variety of coolant hoses darting everywhere. I had a similar problem to you, and when I opened my radiator for maintenance, I found that the thin metal return line for coolant was plugged up with some black sealant. Makes me wonder if thats from the water pump or not, but so far the thing has not overheated, so I'll leave the water pump be until the next scheduled timing belt change.

As for the other stuff, man, its hard to find an LS that is taken care of. Usually at that mileage people ditch their car to get a new one with no headaches.

I got mine at 160K for $2500 in California, which was a steal. Of course, there were (and still some) some concerns, but nothing along the lines of oil, water, and gas. All I can say is if you are truly happy with the body, just rough it out. If not, sell it and buy a different economy car altogether.