Rebuilding PS Pump.
02-24-08, 08:00 PM
#1
Rebuilding PS Pump.
I am thinking of rebuilding my Power Steering pump. But I have a few questions before I do.
First, looking at the tutorials (they all show an SC 400) -- it looks fairly easy. Removal of the PS pump itself looks very easy. *Is it?*
Then once that is off, working with the unit seems like you need to pay attention to detail and alignment, but isn't an issue of (can't reach this or torque this because it is OUT of the engine bay).
It looks like a job I *can* do, without any prior experience.
If it really isn't THAT easy, tell me now. (I'm fairly good with my hands,.. fairly mechanically inclined, but haven't gotten to the 'internals' of an engine before...
Anyway --
My Mechanic will replace the pump for free IF that is the problem, but it will be a hassle. He will put it off, and I might be out of a car for a week or longer because he takes forever on jobs that aren't 'paying' him.
Plus, I wouldn't mind doing the work, I like to work on things, especially that aren't a pain in the butt to do.
However -- First:
The tutorial shows an SC400 pump and instructions. Is everything going to be the same,.. will I have any confusion due to this (the SC400 not LS400) being shown? It lists a few differences in 'words' not pictures with the SC and LS400. Makes me a bit hesitant. (Any main differences that can be said real quickly to make it less 'confusing' -- )
I don't have the special parts (tools). A snap-ring plier seems to be fairly important, and those are cheap (relatively) so I can purchase one. A torque wrench is expensive (for a good one).. but I can find a beam style from 0-75Lbs for 25$.. so that would cover that. (Is a torque wrench absolutely necessary for this? I know alot of things you can just tighten (not too much) and it is fine. If it is, I will certainly buy the 75 pounder.
Biggest thing here -- The guide says a press is highly advised. I don't have a press. It says you sometimes can get away with a hammer. Is this an always thing, or what? I don't want to get stuck in the middle of this without the proper tool because I won't have a vehicle in shape to drive anywhere. *Can I use a hammer?*
Let me know on that one.
Also, it says if inside the housing, or on the shaft if it is scuffed up, has nicks, rough marks.. to sand them out. But it says to use a special device (I forget the exact wording).. but it wasn't sand it by hand.. This something that is likely going to be needed, and also if it is.. can I get by sanding by hand?
When pressing the shaft back in, (with a hammer) .. is there a certain point I KNOW it is in proper, and can I go 'too' far and damage anything? (This is where the inexperience comes in,.. ) -- Will it basically hit a notch/or the back of the housing etc when it is in 'place' ?
I haven't priced the rebuild kits, but I think they run like 60 bucks.. it is just gaskets mainly, so it should be cheap. Can these kits be purchased locally.. Say I decided to rebuild this tommorow, is it likely I could go get the kit somewhere ? IE: Autozone, (or would that be a 'bad' kit? If it is just rings/seals etc.. I would think even an automotive chain kit would be of the same quality.. ??) -- Perhaps dealership/toyota? *Dealership's might price the rebuild kits very high though*.
If the rebuild kits are much more than about $60, it wouldn't be worth the tradeoff money wise than getting a rebuilt or new PS pump. A rebuilt unit can be had for a shade over a 100$. So hopefully I am right with the pricing.
Also , my pulley wobbles.. if you've read my other posts on the subject.
I changed the drivebelt the other day and felt of the pulley , it has ZERO play in it.. it turns smoothly.. It just isn't sqaure. I'm guessing the shaft or bearing needs replacing.
The kit doesn't include a bearing. -- This is another $20 part or so, I hear.. that about right? Can I find this locally as well?
Going along with the shaft and bearing -- It is possible the shaft is bent.. (more likely a bad bearing I would guess..) but.. I would like to find out before take out the pump.
Is it safe to pull off the Serp belt, and remove the pulley to check the shaft? (can it be checked by just removing the pulley?) -- IE: I would go do this tonight or before I do this tommorow, to see if if the shaft is messed up (if I can tell from simply removing the pulley itself) -- The bearing is not in sight. Anyway I can check it? Or basically if my shaft is straight, the wobbling is coming from a bad bearing?
That about covers what I can think of now.. (Oh yeah, the ACV isn't rebuilt as a part of this, right? -- Can this part be rebuilt? I know it is about a $120 part or so. So if this unit can be dissassembled and rebuilt I'd like to do it if the pump doesn't take care of the problem. If it can be rebuilt instead of purchased new,.. about what does it run for the parts? *I can see this not being able to be rebuilt, but thought I would ask anyway)
Thanks for reading, and I hope you can answer all of what I am asking here if you have rebuilt a PS pump on a 1994 (or similar) LS 400.
If you haven't then please don't just guess, as I can speculate that I can get by without the press and so on.. but would like to know for sure.
Again, thanks to all.
*P.S -- Here is what the car currently does for anyone who has not read my other posts*
At idle/standstill/ stop. When I turn the wheel it makes a moaning low sound. Sounds like the PS pump is being strained.
When I am driving at any speed the steering works fine, and makes zero noise.
There are no leaks I can see currently, and the reservoir stays full.
It has a new rack and pinion (a little over a week old).
When I turn the wheel when it makes this noise, at a standstill/stop -- The wheel is harder to turn than normal.
(That is a basic summary of why I am rebuilding/replacing etc.. diagnosing this issue)
First, looking at the tutorials (they all show an SC 400) -- it looks fairly easy. Removal of the PS pump itself looks very easy. *Is it?*
Then once that is off, working with the unit seems like you need to pay attention to detail and alignment, but isn't an issue of (can't reach this or torque this because it is OUT of the engine bay).
It looks like a job I *can* do, without any prior experience.
If it really isn't THAT easy, tell me now. (I'm fairly good with my hands,.. fairly mechanically inclined, but haven't gotten to the 'internals' of an engine before...
Anyway --
My Mechanic will replace the pump for free IF that is the problem, but it will be a hassle. He will put it off, and I might be out of a car for a week or longer because he takes forever on jobs that aren't 'paying' him.
Plus, I wouldn't mind doing the work, I like to work on things, especially that aren't a pain in the butt to do.
However -- First:
The tutorial shows an SC400 pump and instructions. Is everything going to be the same,.. will I have any confusion due to this (the SC400 not LS400) being shown? It lists a few differences in 'words' not pictures with the SC and LS400. Makes me a bit hesitant. (Any main differences that can be said real quickly to make it less 'confusing' -- )
I don't have the special parts (tools). A snap-ring plier seems to be fairly important, and those are cheap (relatively) so I can purchase one. A torque wrench is expensive (for a good one).. but I can find a beam style from 0-75Lbs for 25$.. so that would cover that. (Is a torque wrench absolutely necessary for this? I know alot of things you can just tighten (not too much) and it is fine. If it is, I will certainly buy the 75 pounder.
Biggest thing here -- The guide says a press is highly advised. I don't have a press. It says you sometimes can get away with a hammer. Is this an always thing, or what? I don't want to get stuck in the middle of this without the proper tool because I won't have a vehicle in shape to drive anywhere. *Can I use a hammer?*
Let me know on that one.
Also, it says if inside the housing, or on the shaft if it is scuffed up, has nicks, rough marks.. to sand them out. But it says to use a special device (I forget the exact wording).. but it wasn't sand it by hand.. This something that is likely going to be needed, and also if it is.. can I get by sanding by hand?
When pressing the shaft back in, (with a hammer) .. is there a certain point I KNOW it is in proper, and can I go 'too' far and damage anything? (This is where the inexperience comes in,.. ) -- Will it basically hit a notch/or the back of the housing etc when it is in 'place' ?
I haven't priced the rebuild kits, but I think they run like 60 bucks.. it is just gaskets mainly, so it should be cheap. Can these kits be purchased locally.. Say I decided to rebuild this tommorow, is it likely I could go get the kit somewhere ? IE: Autozone, (or would that be a 'bad' kit? If it is just rings/seals etc.. I would think even an automotive chain kit would be of the same quality.. ??) -- Perhaps dealership/toyota? *Dealership's might price the rebuild kits very high though*.
If the rebuild kits are much more than about $60, it wouldn't be worth the tradeoff money wise than getting a rebuilt or new PS pump. A rebuilt unit can be had for a shade over a 100$. So hopefully I am right with the pricing.
Also , my pulley wobbles.. if you've read my other posts on the subject.
I changed the drivebelt the other day and felt of the pulley , it has ZERO play in it.. it turns smoothly.. It just isn't sqaure. I'm guessing the shaft or bearing needs replacing.
The kit doesn't include a bearing. -- This is another $20 part or so, I hear.. that about right? Can I find this locally as well?
Going along with the shaft and bearing -- It is possible the shaft is bent.. (more likely a bad bearing I would guess..) but.. I would like to find out before take out the pump.
Is it safe to pull off the Serp belt, and remove the pulley to check the shaft? (can it be checked by just removing the pulley?) -- IE: I would go do this tonight or before I do this tommorow, to see if if the shaft is messed up (if I can tell from simply removing the pulley itself) -- The bearing is not in sight. Anyway I can check it? Or basically if my shaft is straight, the wobbling is coming from a bad bearing?
That about covers what I can think of now.. (Oh yeah, the ACV isn't rebuilt as a part of this, right? -- Can this part be rebuilt? I know it is about a $120 part or so. So if this unit can be dissassembled and rebuilt I'd like to do it if the pump doesn't take care of the problem. If it can be rebuilt instead of purchased new,.. about what does it run for the parts? *I can see this not being able to be rebuilt, but thought I would ask anyway)
Thanks for reading, and I hope you can answer all of what I am asking here if you have rebuilt a PS pump on a 1994 (or similar) LS 400.
If you haven't then please don't just guess, as I can speculate that I can get by without the press and so on.. but would like to know for sure.
Again, thanks to all.
*P.S -- Here is what the car currently does for anyone who has not read my other posts*
At idle/standstill/ stop. When I turn the wheel it makes a moaning low sound. Sounds like the PS pump is being strained.
When I am driving at any speed the steering works fine, and makes zero noise.
There are no leaks I can see currently, and the reservoir stays full.
It has a new rack and pinion (a little over a week old).
When I turn the wheel when it makes this noise, at a standstill/stop -- The wheel is harder to turn than normal.
(That is a basic summary of why I am rebuilding/replacing etc.. diagnosing this issue)
Last edited by Neofate; 02-24-08 at 08:03 PM. Reason: Added brief summary of problem.
02-24-08, 08:15 PM
#2
** I looked online at adv auto parts, autozone (same company I think), and Napa.. None have rebuild kits. I don't think pepboys is local to this state -- So is this not a kit that can be found locally? (I live in a big city, that has every store known to man.. so if it is likely at some parts place, let me know..) -- Ie: I have Westwood autoparts here.. and I'm sure some others.
I'm trying to get pricing on this,.. I checked Sewell and another place mentioned on the board just to reference prices, but I couldn't find a rebuild kit much less a new bearing in either spots.
Any help on finding the rebuild kit + bearing? Again, what stores locally might have it? Will dealership have it most likely, and how rediculous is that price likely to be?
I'm trying to get pricing on this,.. I checked Sewell and another place mentioned on the board just to reference prices, but I couldn't find a rebuild kit much less a new bearing in either spots.
Any help on finding the rebuild kit + bearing? Again, what stores locally might have it? Will dealership have it most likely, and how rediculous is that price likely to be?
02-25-08, 06:22 AM
#4
Thats a good price.. I found the kit though. Even the 10$ one.. But I am going to need a bearing at minimum and I think the shaft might be bent as well. I think the overall cost of parts, seals, bearing (maybe shaft).. etc is going to outcost replacing it with an $89 Reman. unit locally.
I would like some cheap hoses though.. I guess I can get generic hosing from Autozone or some such and use it. The rubber hosing is , well, rubber on many parts.. Nothing special about it. So will have to figure that out.. I think for 15-20$ I can replace a good portion of hoses in the engine.
As opposed to ordering them online for 20-60$ a hose.
I would like some cheap hoses though.. I guess I can get generic hosing from Autozone or some such and use it. The rubber hosing is , well, rubber on many parts.. Nothing special about it. So will have to figure that out.. I think for 15-20$ I can replace a good portion of hoses in the engine.
As opposed to ordering them online for 20-60$ a hose.
02-25-08, 06:26 AM
#5
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You can get the hoses for like 2 bucks. I think one of them is 5/8" and the other i am not sure. Anyway, take the hoses out can let autozone guys help you. You will save alot of money.
02-25-08, 12:37 PM
#7
Great that is what I thought. Though I wouldn't want them out if I'm driving that vehicle.
What hoses are wise to replace, since they are so cheap? I'm talking all *cheap* rubber hoses in the engine bay. Could you name them off for me (and if they are an odd name, where they are located) so I have an idea of what to inspect to replace).
I'll just go to autozone and have them come out to the car, and look at the hoses I'm replacing, I'm sure that would work.
Heck, I could get half a dozen hoses replaced for under 20$. That would be good.
Also, yup, I know the HP hose is expensive, but it has a right to be -- It isn't just your standard Rubber tube.
Also mine is fine, thankfully.
Quick question:
I seafoamed my intake/engine and gas 4-6 days ago. I put it in the Crank (oil), brake booster, and the majority in the gas.
Today for the first time, I noticed the car smoke white smoke. I was like, huh? -- So I got out, and bent down and smelled it. It smells just like the Seafoam. Is it possible since my gas is under a quarter tank that the seafoam in the gastank is causing this? Or should I be highly worried about this new development?
*I'm not so worried at the moment because the car drives great, and it looks and smells exactly like the Seafoam chemical -- Doesn't even smell rich like gasoline etc. So it seems , somehow, that is getting into the system enough to cause the smoke. -- Man I hope that is what it is.. just more carbon being burned because of the low gas and thus high concentration of Seafoam being burned in the combustion chambers.*
Thanks,
What hoses are wise to replace, since they are so cheap? I'm talking all *cheap* rubber hoses in the engine bay. Could you name them off for me (and if they are an odd name, where they are located) so I have an idea of what to inspect to replace).
I'll just go to autozone and have them come out to the car, and look at the hoses I'm replacing, I'm sure that would work.
Heck, I could get half a dozen hoses replaced for under 20$. That would be good.
Also, yup, I know the HP hose is expensive, but it has a right to be -- It isn't just your standard Rubber tube.
Also mine is fine, thankfully.Quick question:
I seafoamed my intake/engine and gas 4-6 days ago. I put it in the Crank (oil), brake booster, and the majority in the gas.
Today for the first time, I noticed the car smoke white smoke. I was like, huh? -- So I got out, and bent down and smelled it. It smells just like the Seafoam. Is it possible since my gas is under a quarter tank that the seafoam in the gastank is causing this? Or should I be highly worried about this new development?
*I'm not so worried at the moment because the car drives great, and it looks and smells exactly like the Seafoam chemical -- Doesn't even smell rich like gasoline etc. So it seems , somehow, that is getting into the system enough to cause the smoke. -- Man I hope that is what it is.. just more carbon being burned because of the low gas and thus high concentration of Seafoam being burned in the combustion chambers.*
Thanks,
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02-26-08, 12:03 PM
#8
Can this discount you speak of be entered online or must one call?
Eddie
Eddie
OEM Lexus "seal kit"
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0
$40 shipped before DISCOUNT ! Carson/l-tunedparts
make sure to call it in
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0
$40 shipped before DISCOUNT ! Carson/l-tunedparts
make sure to call it in
02-26-08, 02:02 PM
#10
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Picked up my high pressure power steering line brand new non oem for $106 shipped to my house with a warranty. Looked just like my oem one and looked well built.
Last edited by fjmaze; 02-26-08 at 06:00 PM.
02-26-08, 06:08 PM
#13
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true that but i put 800 plus miles, 20 hours give or take, in the last week and so far so good. I've seen some crappy aftermarket parts and this didnt seem like that.
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