dfkd

I recently installed HID's on my 94 LS.

From what I've read everywhere, the lower voltage of the DRL (40% or whatever) will eventually damage my ballasts.

I have a wiring diagaram of the LS headlight system (attached) but I have no clue where I would find that "daytime running light resistor" that is pictured just below the right headlight in the diagram. I assume that bypassing this would result in the DRL running at full voltage.?.

Other possibility I saw is the "dimmer relay" at the top of the diagram. This is located in the fuse box under the hood but i'm not sure if it would be possible to bypass the dimmer through that relay...

Only other option I have it to remove the DRL fuse but I prefer not to disable them.

Any help would be appreciated (I know we have a few EI's in here).
Thanks

Och

iTrader: (3)

Just drive with your headlights on.

GRAND_LS 4

iTrader: (2)

Not sure how it could be done in the LS, but i know the GS guys found a hack by adding a wire in the fuse box that gets rid of DRL, and the annoying high beam light. (when they disconnected the DRL's module, the high beam light wont come on at all times)

dfkd

Actually in the LS1 the DRL is low beam. Completely removing the drl relay will disable it but I do want to keep them.

I really hate driving with my headlights on...the park lights look really geeky during the day.

I'll check the GS forum to see if they have a dimmer relay bypass.

More ideas still welcome...

avalon42

iTrader: (1)

I run my HID system independent of the existing headlight system (wired up with my own wires and relay). The headlight system only comes to play when I flip the headlight switch which signals the relay to allow current flow. The power wire is wired directly off the battery.

CK6Speed

iTrader: (1)

So you have an HID kit connected to the high beam/DRL? Anyway, like Avalon42 mentioned, I have always used a separate independet wiring for any HID kit I have installed. Get the full power directly from the battery, and use the headlight simply as the trigger to activate a sepatate relay. I pretty much run all my kits exactly like avalon42.

93LSexy

94 has DRL??? my 93 doesn't. I could really used that wiring diagram this past weekend when I was putting in two sets of HID. Had a hard time figuring out the high/low of the three plug connector for the H4 bulbs. But I managed with a test bulb and some guessing.

I'm running 6000K Hi/low kit in the headlight and 3000K in the fogs. AWESOME!! Wired them straight into the factory connectors.

avalon42

iTrader: (1)

Have taken a meter and actually measured the voltage/ampage of the DRL vs. regular headlights?

Is there some reason why you want to keep the DRL system? Canadian law perhaps? By reading the diagram, you may have to do some splicing and rewiring to bypass the DRL system. Before you do all that, I would double check the voltage/amp requirements for the ballast and see what the difference would be. Also, how much life expectancy are you planning for the ballasts? Most average about 3-5 years from what I've been seeing.

Or, as you said, remove the DRL fuse, drive with the headlights always on (since they turn off after you turn off your ignition and open your driver's door).

sonyman

Canadian cars have DRL.

Suneet

Why would there be lower voltage to the DRL lights? That means there has to be some sort of module actually stepping down the voltage.. which would just be wasting power.. are you sure about this?

93LSexy

avalon42

iTrader: (1)

According to the wiring diagram, there is a resistor on the ground of the DRL circuit.

Suneet

I'd love to see a picture of your hood to see how you have all the wires arranged.

I'm planning on HID soon, and with the power cables from my alarm, tach cable for remote start, and power cable for my audio setup in the trunk... it's getting messy

avalon42

iTrader: (1)

It's nothing special, just some 12 gauge power wires wired to the ballasts, then everything grounded to chassis, and a relay to turn everything on. The system has been going strong for the past year in my LS400, as well as 2 years before on my 87 Maxima (I moved the system over after the accident, RIP).

With all those taps on your system, I would definitely look into an aftermarket positive terminal post to accommodate all the different wiring securely. Something like this. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Digit...spagenameZWDVW
I plan on getting one as well.

Suneet

Yeah I've got one of those from KnuKonceptz since I have 0ga and 8ga cables coming from the battery. But it doesn't have a cool voltage display

Have you thought about upgrading the big 3? I really need to do that in my car-- I'm having major grounding issues with all the power I'm running to the trunk