HID + DRL...full voltage possible?
#16
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
I just installed a new alternator, am pretty happy with it. Battery is approximately a year old also, I don't have a real audio system (just an aftermarket headunit and some speakers, no woofer.
Being as old as it is, the 1LS could go for one of those grounding kits. I'd like to see if anyone had success with them (performance wise) but the cost is up there on some of those kits...
#17
Lexus Champion
What's the big 3?
I just installed a new alternator, am pretty happy with it. Battery is approximately a year old also, I don't have a real audio system (just an aftermarket headunit and some speakers, no woofer.
Being as old as it is, the 1LS could go for one of those grounding kits. I'd like to see if anyone had success with them (performance wise) but the cost is up there on some of those kits...
I just installed a new alternator, am pretty happy with it. Battery is approximately a year old also, I don't have a real audio system (just an aftermarket headunit and some speakers, no woofer.
Being as old as it is, the 1LS could go for one of those grounding kits. I'd like to see if anyone had success with them (performance wise) but the cost is up there on some of those kits...
Alternator + to Battery +
Battery ground to Chassis
Engine ground to Chassis
I don't see how a grounding kit can improve performance of the car.. I guess if you're REALLY suffering from a very bad ground your spark plugs/wires would not work properly, but since all that is located right in the engine bay, I don't see how that is possible.
I just want to upgrade "the big 3" becuase I'm getting ground loops and alternator noise from my audio setup..
#19
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I guess finding that resistor or the DRL relay that is at right of the diagaram would be the way to bypass this reduced voltage.
Removing the resistor or convincing the relay to always remain in the on position where G203 is active (thus giving a non-resisted ground to the lights) would be the way to go then.
From what I see on the diagaram, the DRL relay that is to the right of the resistor simply adds or removes the additional ground G203 to the circuit.
So 3 and 4 need to be connected at all times then joining 1 and 2 would add or remove that additional ground.
Can someone confirm that I am reading this right?
Also, can one of our electronically enlightened members tell me how bad an idea it is for me to try this at all...lol
Removing the resistor or convincing the relay to always remain in the on position where G203 is active (thus giving a non-resisted ground to the lights) would be the way to go then.
From what I see on the diagaram, the DRL relay that is to the right of the resistor simply adds or removes the additional ground G203 to the circuit.
So 3 and 4 need to be connected at all times then joining 1 and 2 would add or remove that additional ground.
Can someone confirm that I am reading this right?
Also, can one of our electronically enlightened members tell me how bad an idea it is for me to try this at all...lol
#20
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I forgot to update this thread...
In studying the wiring diagram I realised that the resistor was connected to a grounding line.
Essentially, to provide full power to the bulbs at all times I needed to add another ground to the headlights (without any additional resistance).
I added a simple wire out of the ground on the passenger side bulb connector running to the body next to the air filter and that was it. No more flickering from underpowered HID.
In studying the wiring diagram I realised that the resistor was connected to a grounding line.
Essentially, to provide full power to the bulbs at all times I needed to add another ground to the headlights (without any additional resistance).
I added a simple wire out of the ground on the passenger side bulb connector running to the body next to the air filter and that was it. No more flickering from underpowered HID.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post