HaryGahtoe

Did a well needed upgrade for a 1st gen. Replacing the rotors with drilled and slotted rotors to bring down stopping distances. More importantly found Axxis Ultimate Front AND Rear. Kevlar/ceramics Rears for CF10's hard to find. Next will be servicing calipers, paint and breakin. Kevlar keeps down total temp and ceramics should add bite with longevity of dilled/slotted rotors. Show followup when it comes install time.

LiCelsior

iTrader: (32)

prices of front and rear?

Suneet

I don't think that drilled/slotted rotors are going to give you longevity. I think they won't give you anything really except looks, and they will probably warp much faster than OEM rotors. That's been the experience of most people here.. but please do post your results.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

drilled are effected more than slotted in terms of warpage and cracking.

slotted are known to sometimes eat pads a little more than drilled.

neither IMPROVE stopping distance. they improve the brakes' resistance to fading.

HaryGahtoe

This setup is intended for one purpose. Improving CF10 brake overheating causing poor braking. Price was reasonable for Kevlar/Ceramics.
If you reduce heat you've increased ability to stop.
Suneet you read it wrong. The Kevlar/Ceramic pads are used in conjunction with Drilled/Slotted rotors to save the surface of the discs while reducing friction coefficient and most important, heat. Its the composition of the pads I was referring to saving the life of the disc not the overall life expectancy.
I own a C5 Corvette with GM Performance slotted rotors stainless flex brake lines and ceramic pads. They stop better than plain. They haven't warped and pads are ceramic. I also own a CLK 430 MB with drilled/slotted rotors. Its packing Kevlar/Carbon Porterfields. I properly seated them and drove a 4600 mi roadtrip. Its close to 8000 and still look new. C5 and CLK stop shorter, but more importantly have a more progressive solid feeling that doesn't fade right out to the limit.

Suneet

Where did you pick them up from and how much? I've got the same Axxis pads on my LS but my rotors are some nice warped OEMs

EXE.UCF10

iTrader: (3)

You meant "slotted are known to sometimes eat pads a little more than drilled."

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

fixed

HaryGahtoe

I 'm not much for naming names, Google Kevlar pads LS400. Again google Rotors, they were well known ebay Co. Rotors have drilled/slotted rotors with slots ending in a decreasing depth point which help reduce buildup

Suneet

You don't want to name the name of a product you bought? Uh.. that's quite strange.

Dutch

thats cool with me, i hate free advertising. kids put stickers on their cars b/c they think it shows off what cool parts they have, all it does is advertise for the manufacturer of those parts for free. but you have to admit that it is pretty smart that almost every thing you buy now-a-days comes with stickers. my opinion is that if you want me to advertise your product i need compensation. ( sorry a lil off track)

thebeeguy

That's because your C5 Corvette and CLK most likely have bigger diameter Rotors, paired with bigger calipers with more pistons/clamping force.

Think about it, if your car came with (lets just say) 10in rotors, and you replace those 10in rotors with 10in cross drilled/slotted rotors, you are removing surface material for the brake pad to contact. Less contact area = less friction = worse braking. Think about it, all the cars that come from the factory with cross drilled rotors usually have larger diameter rotors with big calipers.

Furthermore, the ones that come from the factory with crossdrilled rotors more often than not, are CAST WITH the holes in them, not technically drilled. That keeps them strong. Most of those crossdrilled rotors you buy aftermarket, even those "ebay" or "Brembo Crossdrilled" rotors are BS. The holes are drilled, they crack. Its been proven before. The only REAL advantage of crossdrilled rotors are the reduction in weight, but thats the last of your worries in this case.

You can find this info on Google, and also amongst plenty of people who autocross/race. Just search "cross drilled slotted waste".

Unless you are increasing Rotor diameter along with this project you are doing, it honestly is a waste. Those pads would work better with solid blanks. And if you're not tracking/auto crossing your UCF10, its overkill to be buying "performance rotors" for it.

A better way to upgrade your UCF10's braking is upgrading to a Supra setup. May cost a little more but the results will blow any crossdrilled/slotted rotor upgrade to a UCF10 out of the water anyday. Either way, its your choice, but I've experienced all of this before when I used to go canyon carving on a weekly basis in my CRX, Integra, and 240sx. Better/higher boiling point brake fluid, good pads, stainless braided lines, and good solid blank rotors are really basically all you need. Larger diameter brake upgrades are even better of course. The Axxis/PBR ultimates are indeed very good pads, as are EBC's, for the price you cant beat them. Hawks work pretty well too but I've heard they tend to eat up rotors.

Here's some more info:
http://www.teamscr.com/rotors.htm
http://www.stagefourmotorsports.com/tech_rotors.php
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?...d=19&Itemid=50

For the record, I am NOT trying to attack you or call you stupid or anything like that. This is just so that people don't buy into the hype and go out and blow their money on new crossdrilled slotted rotors thinking they'll be "upgrading"

HaryGahtoe

I'm sorry I don't like to advertise. Just a personal thing.
On the allout re&re with Supra, great. CF20's work; Brembo's to blow the budget. ($400-1200)just fronts.
Recently a major mag & aftermarket Brake Co. tested an Acura with a big brake kit. Tests showed it did no better than original.
What I'm after is balance(F&R). Its all about balance in brake efficiency.
Problem is; this is a low budget ride and my whole price F&R is $ 320 delivered and installed. Brakes were wasted. Car is in awsome shape.
This is about reducing heat with less surface damage and more about the combination of rotor and pads. Not just drilled/slotted rotors. Up until very lately people used semi-metallic pads which got its stopping force from a combination of metal shavings mixed with temperature raising organic compound base. Very destructive on Drilled and or slotted rotors.
Ceramics get involved and brakes stay cooler. Small annoyances with noises a tradeoff. Now kevlar base with Ceramic. Its gooood. Kevlar Carbon is about as good as gets for now.
Major bonor with all this is getting F&R in this application. Several Co.'s said semi- metallic rears is ALL you can get. Try searching, for rear pads in Kevlar. Pretty slim pickins. Its worth the hunt.

Bill Dowd

I have just put ceramic pads in the front and semi metallic pads in the rear and boy does this old lexus stop. The pad leave little dust and I am using standard rotors and on the 91 lexus the brakes were always poor but by just adding the above what a great braking performace I now have. And it did't cost much did the work my self.

HaryGahtoe

Bill, glad to hear someone goin DIY & havin good results. Its best to listen to what others have done but always choose to do it how you feel is the best for how you drive your own car. Good to see others havin positive results