akxx

iTrader: (1)

OK, I'm getting the dreaded clunk from the front right corner. Also noticeable during left hand turns.

Is there a way to diagnose whether this is upper control arm bushing, lower control arm bushing, or ball joints without taking both control arms off the car?
I'd like to keep down time to a minimum, and would like to order the necessary bushings/tie rods ahead of time so I can do it in 1 session.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

I've been asking this of shops and none have come up with a firm answer. They base it on miles and the fact that I've slowly been replacing other suspension parts there. The only ones left now are the control arm bushings and I'm sure that in another 20-40K miles, I'll need to replace the strut bar bushings.

steveski

I had the clunk and when I replaced my lower ball joints my inside tire wear stopped but the clunk was still there. Anyway, I removed entire suspension to lower it to bottom perch and put everything back together per my manual - ever since the clunking is gone - nobody has an explanation for this one bro.

The problem is that these parts are expensive and the labor alone will cost you plenty (as you know). My car has 174k miles and I have never replaced upper control arms or strut bars. Since my clunking is gone and tire wear fixed - I guess I am fine for now. I won't replace anything until it is needed.

Many guys here say strut bars before CA's. Maybe you can look into them?

akxx

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the response guys.

Steveski--you're on your original control arm bushings @ 174k miles?!!

OK, so are the strut bar bushings a serviceable (replaceable) item, and where would one source these? This is the "trailing arm" bar that comes off the lower control arm and attaches to the frame behind the arm, correct?

steveski

Yes - original CA's and bushings. You'd think they are surely bad but show no signs of failure - And at over $250 each (CA's) they are expensive to just change without knowing for sure. I would NOT change the bushings without checking the ball joint on the CA because it could always be bad (connects to the steering knuckle). I checked the ball joint per the manual and it checked o.k. So for now I will keep on truckin unless I see vibration and/or tire wear.

If I understand your question the strut rod bushings are serviceable and cost $50 to $60 each on the internet (for example):

http://replacement.***************/par...howdc=true#top

The strut rod connects to the lower ball joint assembly and attaches to the chasis - looks pretty straight forard to change. Maybe you'd be better off to change entire stut bar - seems like it would come with new bushing, etc.???

flat6toV8

I replaced my strut bar with a OEM unit. Not more more expensive than the bushing itself. I got it from sewell for about $100 each side.

Most of the pain was removing all the suspension parts to get to the strut bar. To make things easier, I removed the entire shock assembly. This makes it much easier to fit the strut bar. The bushing is under some preload, so you have to lift the entire wheel carrier up to normal ride height to get a proper fit. Otherwise, it is difficult to fit it in correctly ( unless you have the grip of Hercules )

Also, just make some witness marks before removing the strut bar so you don't need to do an alignment afterwards.

The verdict on my clunking: It's less, but not gone. I'm satisified for now, when I get the itch to pursue it again, I'll probably start with some easy things ( sway bar links, outer tie rod ) before heading towards the upper/lower CA's.

pito

Can you give a number for sewell please, I need to order the ASAP.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

I take it that since the bushing is under preload you can't just unbolt the bushing and remove it from the control arm without the full disassembly process.

Is the strut bar bushing inspectable to determine need to replace, or should I just go ahead and replace it regardless?

RA40

iTrader: (6)

The technician stated mine were cracked and needed replacement. It wasn't until it was off the car you could see just how worn the bushing really was. Though replaced, I still had some clunking.

akxx

iTrader: (1)

ugh. just what I feared.

flat6toV8

You are correct, you will have to unbolt the strut bar assembly ( 1 large bolt, 2 smaller bolts ), but to get to it, you will need to undo the bracket that holds the strut onto the lower control arm ( 2 bolts ).

You can inspect and see how the bushing is by just removing the wheel and looking forward of the wheel well area.

As an update, my car rides so much smoother now. Still a little clunking, but much better than before. Coupled with my other recent mods ( plug wires, dist rotor ), the car is pretty smooth now. When I gather momentum again, I'll do another round of improvements, but i am happy for now.