Engine stalls while shutting off AC or switching to neutral
07-20-06, 06:47 PM
#1
Engine stalls while shutting off AC or switching to neutral
In my 94 the engine RPMS drop severely when I put it into park or shut off AC (when stopped), and stalls if I do both at the same time. What is the most likely cause for this?
07-21-06, 06:50 AM
#4
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http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/throttlebody.html
I've seen a couple people say you don't HAVE to drain the coolant...especially if you're satisified with just cleaning the TB without removing it...Which, personally, is sufficient enough cleaning of it for me..But, to each is own.
Good luck with it, Och...update us on how it went.
I've seen a couple people say you don't HAVE to drain the coolant...especially if you're satisified with just cleaning the TB without removing it...Which, personally, is sufficient enough cleaning of it for me..But, to each is own.
Good luck with it, Och...update us on how it went.
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07-21-06, 12:14 PM
#9
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Sounds like it is in a poor state of tune to me. There are a bunch of possibilities including partially obstructed exhaust, a leak in the air intake system, clogged fuel filter, etc. I would start with a basic tune-up, and go from there. I very seriously doubt a dirty TB alone is going to cause this issue.
Brandon
Brandon
08-27-06, 01:35 PM
#10
Ok, so I just finished with this DIY - didn't have time to do it until this weekend. Took me most of yesterday and most of today. Let me tell you, the instructions at the lexls.com are great, but they are for a model without traction control. My car had traction control, which made the whole procedure tons more difficult. Traction control model has an extra sensor and an extra vacuum hose, and that vacuum hose is right next to the coolant hose on the TC and its a ***** to remove it and put it back on. I ended up cutting the hose. If you are planning on doing it on your car, prepare about one foot of 5/8 ID hose, because u will damage the old one, and some 5/16 ID hose for the coolant in case you damage the existing hose, and extra clamps. You will need quite a few tools and patience. The hoses by far are the most difficult procedure, everything else is a breeze. Also, the two bolts underneath the throttle body are a ***** to put back in because of lack of space. Make sure you have the magnetic retrieving tool, because if u drop these bolts they are not easy to retrieve.
Now to the results. The procedure worked great. RPMs do not drop below 600 anymore under any circumstances. When shifting gears the RMS barely change. Switching AC on and off rpms rise to about 950 and drop to 600. Idle is nice and smooth, I can barely tell if the engine is even working. All this work, cursing and sweating and getting dirty certainly paid off. I removed like 1.5-2 mm thick layer of carbon build up from the throttle body and cleaned up the intake chamber as much as i could. I also replaced the air filter once I was at it.
On the disappointing note, I am still having the pinging problem described in this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=229995
I ordered a set of wires, spark plugs, distributor caps and rotors, and planning to do a DIY tune-up next weekend.
Now to the results. The procedure worked great. RPMs do not drop below 600 anymore under any circumstances. When shifting gears the RMS barely change. Switching AC on and off rpms rise to about 950 and drop to 600. Idle is nice and smooth, I can barely tell if the engine is even working. All this work, cursing and sweating and getting dirty certainly paid off. I removed like 1.5-2 mm thick layer of carbon build up from the throttle body and cleaned up the intake chamber as much as i could. I also replaced the air filter once I was at it.
On the disappointing note, I am still having the pinging problem described in this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=229995
I ordered a set of wires, spark plugs, distributor caps and rotors, and planning to do a DIY tune-up next weekend.
08-28-06, 02:26 PM
#12
Yeah. Just a few tips - you really don't have to drain the coolant, just buy a 5/16 vacuum cap, or use some tape around the metal pipe when u disconnect from the TB. In fact, I dont even know why the coolant line is running through the TB, theres no good reason for it - it just makes removing and reinstalling the TB so much more difficult. In fact I was thinking about re-routing the coolant line, but I just didnt have the proper supplies. If you buy a metal pipe and a coupler and re-rout the coolant line underneath the TB, then reinstalling the TB will be 50% easier. And in fact you might see some perfomance gain, because the hot coolant heats up the air inside throttle body.
Also, dont clean it without removing it, you just wont be able to do it effectively. You dont wanna spray too much carb cleaner in there, and honestly it wont even do, you really need to scrape it with a knife or a screw driver. You dont want all this gunk to go into your engine.
Also, dont clean it without removing it, you just wont be able to do it effectively. You dont wanna spray too much carb cleaner in there, and honestly it wont even do, you really need to scrape it with a knife or a screw driver. You dont want all this gunk to go into your engine.
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