How to fix your speedo needle when it does not work
#106
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This worked on my rpm meter and it is working properly now. But my speedo does not match the speed I'm going. I tried this attempt and it is not fixed.
#107
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Needle adjustment
I have a 2006 is250 with larger than stock tires. The speedo is off by 6-7 mph a speeds above 65. Can I adjust the needle to a bit less than zero to compensate?
#108
Lexus Champion
#109
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Needle Sticking Problem
please keep in mind that not all speedo and tach not working issues are sticking problems - if your speedo is not working and does not respond to a sharp rap on the top of the dash, then your speedo and/or tach not working may be a symptom of leaking ECU capacitors - on my '96, this was the case!
#110
We sell every gauge cluster part for every year LS400. We also repair customer gauge clusters. If you need something repaired or want to purchase replacement parts, send us a message.
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#111
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Clean the Circuit Board!
Hello everyone I am new to the Forum and this is my first post.
After reading up on the boards on some of the fixes for the tachometer, i was able
to take it out from the dash and disassembling it to see where the problem lies.
I found that there we some leakage, what i did was clean the circuit board with rubbing alcohol and vinegar. I then was able to solder on one capacitor that had a higher voltage than the one i took out, i believe i swapped out the 25v for a 50v capacitor.
I put it back together in the car this morning and everything worked out great for now. Anyway this was my first time soldering on a circuit board, and found that taking out the instrument panel was the hardest thing to do. I hope that my story serves as an inspiration for anyone who has the desire to do the job, but are afraid of attempting it.
Just a reminder be very patient when doing any kind of work on the circuit board, and also make sure you ground yourself when working on the board. That is all.
Hope that helps someone looking for answers.
After reading up on the boards on some of the fixes for the tachometer, i was able
to take it out from the dash and disassembling it to see where the problem lies.
I found that there we some leakage, what i did was clean the circuit board with rubbing alcohol and vinegar. I then was able to solder on one capacitor that had a higher voltage than the one i took out, i believe i swapped out the 25v for a 50v capacitor.
I put it back together in the car this morning and everything worked out great for now. Anyway this was my first time soldering on a circuit board, and found that taking out the instrument panel was the hardest thing to do. I hope that my story serves as an inspiration for anyone who has the desire to do the job, but are afraid of attempting it.
Just a reminder be very patient when doing any kind of work on the circuit board, and also make sure you ground yourself when working on the board. That is all.
Hope that helps someone looking for answers.
#112
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
Hello everyone I am new to the Forum and this is my first post.
After reading up on the boards on some of the fixes for the tachometer, i was able
to take it out from the dash and disassembling it to see where the problem lies.
I found that there we some leakage, what i did was clean the circuit board with rubbing alcohol and vinegar. I then was able to solder on one capacitor that had a higher voltage than the one i took out, i believe i swapped out the 25v for a 50v capacitor.
I put it back together in the car this morning and everything worked out great for now. Anyway this was my first time soldering on a circuit board, and found that taking out the instrument panel was the hardest thing to do. I hope that my story serves as an inspiration for anyone who has the desire to do the job, but are afraid of attempting it.
Just a reminder be very patient when doing any kind of work on the circuit board, and also make sure you ground yourself when working on the board. That is all.
Hope that helps someone looking for answers.
After reading up on the boards on some of the fixes for the tachometer, i was able
to take it out from the dash and disassembling it to see where the problem lies.
I found that there we some leakage, what i did was clean the circuit board with rubbing alcohol and vinegar. I then was able to solder on one capacitor that had a higher voltage than the one i took out, i believe i swapped out the 25v for a 50v capacitor.
I put it back together in the car this morning and everything worked out great for now. Anyway this was my first time soldering on a circuit board, and found that taking out the instrument panel was the hardest thing to do. I hope that my story serves as an inspiration for anyone who has the desire to do the job, but are afraid of attempting it.
Just a reminder be very patient when doing any kind of work on the circuit board, and also make sure you ground yourself when working on the board. That is all.
Hope that helps someone looking for answers.
#114
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Sticking Needle Problem
I have 93 LS and had the sticking needle problem. The problem has been fixed by replacing caps on my ECM as LSCowboy recommended. When I took the ECM out to replace caps, only one cap had a sign of leak. I am thinking that cap was responsible for the problem. I did cap replacement on the dashboard too but the ECM cap replacement is actually easier then dashboard as ECM is not a surface mount type board.
This problem seems to happen when warm. It really may be the needle is sticking to the base due to the sicking substance at the base of needle.
#115
We can repair the needle sticking issue for around $100 including return shipping as long as they are still working most of the time..
If you wait too long the needle and motor assemblies will have to be replaced entirely.
If you wait too long the needle and motor assemblies will have to be replaced entirely.
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www.taninautoelectronix.com
#116
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I think there are two kinds of problems:
1. Sticking needle
2. Bad sensor
My problem may be due to a bad sensor , Because I have seen the needle showing speed and then suddenly, the needle will dive down to zero, later coming to life and showing speed.
If it goes down it means there is a sensor problem.
M KHan
1. Sticking needle
2. Bad sensor
My problem may be due to a bad sensor , Because I have seen the needle showing speed and then suddenly, the needle will dive down to zero, later coming to life and showing speed.
If it goes down it means there is a sensor problem.
M KHan
#117
It's not a sensor. The issue is inside of the gauge cluster.
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262-456-4147
contact@taninauto.com
www.taninautoelectronix.com
TANIN AUTO ELECTRONIX
262-456-4147
contact@taninauto.com
www.taninautoelectronix.com
#118
Hey. My needle has started to act wierd like in the first post.
In the mornings after I start the car sometime the needle will work, another others it will stick on 0 for a while and then finally bounce up the the speed I am going. The longest instance of this was yesterday morning where it stayed at 0 for 3 miles before jumping to the speed I was going.
Is it indeed a bad speed sensor that causes this?
Side note: I already have my 6 caps for the ECM job but haven't gotten around to finding someone to repair it. Mainly because I am too lazy to try and take the glove box apart. So if the ECM caps are the problem at least I'll have some incentive to get to work on that.
In the mornings after I start the car sometime the needle will work, another others it will stick on 0 for a while and then finally bounce up the the speed I am going. The longest instance of this was yesterday morning where it stayed at 0 for 3 miles before jumping to the speed I was going.
Is it indeed a bad speed sensor that causes this?
Side note: I already have my 6 caps for the ECM job but haven't gotten around to finding someone to repair it. Mainly because I am too lazy to try and take the glove box apart. So if the ECM caps are the problem at least I'll have some incentive to get to work on that.
#119
It is not a bad speed sensor or the ECM.
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TANIN AUTO ELECTRONIX
262-456-4147
contact@taninauto.com
www.taninautoelectronix.com
TANIN AUTO ELECTRONIX
262-456-4147
contact@taninauto.com
www.taninautoelectronix.com