How to fix your speedo needle when it does not work
05-07-08, 11:35 AM
#61
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speedo tach issue
I took my cluster out and took it apart, it seemed the needles were off the spring. I played with them for a little bit, moving them back and forth and noticed they were limp would just fall right down past zero. so after fiddling i noticed a click in the speedo and the tach. They were now firm so I placed them at zero and they stayed there the whole time during install. Been driving for a hundred miles everything is now at the right speed and rpms.
09-02-08, 07:23 AM
#63
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Anyone been able to fix a fuel guage that is very lazy to show the correct fuel level, if i have a full tank it will only show 1/2 a tank then slowly move up to 3/4 and stop. I had the capacitors on the board replaced to fix the dark display but the fuel gauge is starting to bug me now.
09-02-08, 05:50 PM
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Anyone been able to fix a fuel guage that is very lazy to show the correct fuel level, if i have a full tank it will only show 1/2 a tank then slowly move up to 3/4 and stop. I had the capacitors on the board replaced to fix the dark display but the fuel gauge is starting to bug me now.
I successfully replaced my C212 cap on the small PC board, and it cured 100% of my cold weather instrument light problem. The C212 cap was a 10 uF, 16V.
If you are technically inclined and good with a soldering iron, these fixes are a 10 minute job for about $3.00 in parts (or less). Getting the cluster out is the long pole on this deal--the Lexus techs know a few secrets about getting that accomplished which makes it much faster for them!
Good luck!
09-11-08, 10:29 PM
#65
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I have a dead tach
My tachometer meter gave up on me awhile back, prob 2 months ago. i have a LS400 1990 and about 170kmi. is there a tach sensor part i could buy at autozone? Please get back at me? thanks a lot
Last edited by jbart003; 09-11-08 at 10:49 PM.
12-07-08, 08:24 AM
#66
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The fuel gauge level capacitors of interest are C142 and C147, both are on the big PC board for the instrument cluster. My recollection is that the C142 cap is a 4.7uF, 25V, and that the C147 cap is a 10uF, 50V cap.
I successfully replaced my C212 cap on the small PC board, and it cured 100% of my cold weather instrument light problem. The C212 cap was a 10 uF, 16V.
If you are technically inclined and good with a soldering iron, these fixes are a 10 minute job for about $3.00 in parts (or less). Getting the cluster out is the long pole on this deal--the Lexus techs know a few secrets about getting that accomplished which makes it much faster for them!
Good luck!
I successfully replaced my C212 cap on the small PC board, and it cured 100% of my cold weather instrument light problem. The C212 cap was a 10 uF, 16V.
If you are technically inclined and good with a soldering iron, these fixes are a 10 minute job for about $3.00 in parts (or less). Getting the cluster out is the long pole on this deal--the Lexus techs know a few secrets about getting that accomplished which makes it much faster for them!
Good luck!
Anyway, thanks for the advice, it was very useful!
Last edited by branko77; 12-07-08 at 08:30 AM.
12-07-08, 09:05 AM
#67
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You may have something here. I don't have this problem but while trouble shooting my flickering instrument light problem I noticed that the meters make contact with the power control board through screws and flat washers that connect to a large pad on the control board. As an engineer I have seen this kind of connection fail many times.
The problem is that the board has a different coefficient of expansion than the metal screws. This coupled with a little corrosion on the screw or pad will result in an open circuit between the board and meter. The problem gets worse the lower the voltage and current of the connection. In other words it takes a minimum amount of VA to break through the corrosion of the connection. One way to overcome the problem is to use a star washer or a spring washer under the screw. When you tighten these you dig into the board pad and form a gas tight connection that won't corrode. Also, the spring washer allows for the different rates of expansion and therefore maintains contact.
This is a good theory but I would have to try it out on a board experiencing this problem to be sure that it is a good fix. Perhaps someone can try it and let us know if it works.
The problem is that the board has a different coefficient of expansion than the metal screws. This coupled with a little corrosion on the screw or pad will result in an open circuit between the board and meter. The problem gets worse the lower the voltage and current of the connection. In other words it takes a minimum amount of VA to break through the corrosion of the connection. One way to overcome the problem is to use a star washer or a spring washer under the screw. When you tighten these you dig into the board pad and form a gas tight connection that won't corrode. Also, the spring washer allows for the different rates of expansion and therefore maintains contact.
This is a good theory but I would have to try it out on a board experiencing this problem to be sure that it is a good fix. Perhaps someone can try it and let us know if it works.
02-10-09, 11:52 PM
#68
just picked up my first lexus ever yesterday, 93 LS400, and like the rest of you guys, im boarding the cluster issues ship. mine has the 2 issues where the RPM needle and the speed needle play dead when they feel like it, then wake right up at anytime =/
untill we have a solution, i shall tap away on the dash, lol
untill we have a solution, i shall tap away on the dash, lol
02-19-09, 04:10 PM
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Thanks Ricky, I took apart the cluster (easier than I thought) and the instant I moved the speedo needle I could feel it stick. Took it apart, used the q-tip and works like a champ now.
Only downside is I broke the RPM needle in the process and while trying to super glue it together I snapped the inner part it was connected to
oh well don't need it in an automatic I suppose LOL.
Only downside is I broke the RPM needle in the process and while trying to super glue it together I snapped the inner part it was connected to
oh well don't need it in an automatic I suppose LOL.
02-24-09, 10:48 AM
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Thanks for the information, I was planing tp purchase the speed sensor from AutoZone.
Come to think of it, If the car is park outside on a sunny day the both speedometer and the tachometer works fine.
My feeling is it may be something else than the sensor. And since this a common occurence with LS400 ( I guess ).
What is Lexus ( Toyota ) take on this?
Come to think of it, If the car is park outside on a sunny day the both speedometer and the tachometer works fine.
My feeling is it may be something else than the sensor. And since this a common occurence with LS400 ( I guess ).
What is Lexus ( Toyota ) take on this?
03-07-09, 11:07 PM
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If your needle is not working what so ever (and your mileage counter as well) than your speed sensor (in the gearbox) is gone dead, and needs to be replaced...
03-26-09, 10:51 AM
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My tach hasnt worked for almost two years now in my 1990 Celsior (LS400) it happened when i hit a curb pretty hard on the left side. The speedo works great and never sticks, but the tach hangs below zero and will move when the rpms get high enough. But it only reads a max of like 1000 rpms. which i know isnt true.
What are thoughts on this? did i knock the needle off the spring in the cluster or did i mess up some sensor? I havent been able to find the answer on any other forum ... so far.
Thanks in advance for your help
What are thoughts on this? did i knock the needle off the spring in the cluster or did i mess up some sensor? I havent been able to find the answer on any other forum ... so far.
Thanks in advance for your help
03-31-09, 10:16 PM
#74
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Sounds like the needle is self is detached from the center of the needle assambly, and most probably you will find part of that neck broken...
If you have superglue, shouldn't be anything hard to fix (that happend with my temp gauge)...
Problem lies when people start hitting the dash to unstick the needles, then they brake on the axile, so you can't even see that it's broken...
If you have superglue, shouldn't be anything hard to fix (that happend with my temp gauge)...
Problem lies when people start hitting the dash to unstick the needles, then they brake on the axile, so you can't even see that it's broken...
04-19-09, 12:08 AM
#75
To all members who dont know please note Cluster problems the best in business is Jim Walker who has been recommended by many even at Lexus dealers who cant afford the repairs, I was also a victim to this Cluster problem, Jim Walker who has done an excellent job in repairing mine, I had this problem exactly 5 years back and since then after he did the repairs, it has been stable till date. He live in Fresno CA. If you need to contact him the email is jimwalker@sbcglobal.net. He will send the complete instruction for removal and fitment. All you need is to send the Cluster to him. Believe me, he is just too good, from experience, I am sure other members who have taken his service will vouch for that.
The removal methd is also available on lexls.com
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/elect...ntcluster.html
cheers
The removal methd is also available on lexls.com
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/elect...ntcluster.html
cheers
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