914lps

Thanks to everyone that has been helping me. On Monday I tried calling the mechanic recommended to me. But Walt was out sick and I talked to a Brian. He did not sound like he knew about the Solenoid. As such I really did not want to make the drive out to him. I then called a friend I used to know in the valley. He builds race cars and does some work on American cars. He told me the lift was free and to come over with the info on how to do the work on the Solenoid.

It took more time to get the car on the lift then to remove the solenoid. Now that I have seen it done I would say that if you can change your own oil. You can do this.

Strange. On looking at the solenoid, we could see that it had been removed before (chisel mark on it). At any rate he removed it and cleaned it. On cleaning it we could see that on the last cleaning someone pushed two if the screens in.

We called around but it is almost imposable to get just the Solenoid. It only comes two ways. As part of the valve at around $500.00 to $600.00 or in a complete rack with the valve and Solenoid for about $400.00 though Lexus dealers.

I was not going to deal with a fast decision to spend $400.00 on a rack, and $300.00 to install. So we just put the cleaned solenoid back into the car.

It helped a small mount more. So now I even had some power even at a stand still, but it was not what it should be.

I then drove home.

I took this car over from my dad after his stroke. Going over the paperwork I found that at 60,000 miles Vista Lexus rebuilt the power steering pump. The car now has just over 106,000 miles on it. I called Vista this morning, and asked about the job. I was told that they always remove and clean the Solenoid whenever they replace or rebuild a pump. But they felt no responsibility about the screens. They told me that the screen deteriorate and get holes in them naturally over time.

So now we know that the dealers know about cleaning the Solenoid and it’s apparent relationship to pump failure.

I would love to hear all your thoughts on this and the comment the dealer made about the screen on the solenoid.

My plan:
Jack the car up on stands. Pull and re-clean the Solenoid. Check it electronically. In cleaning the Solenoid this time I will apply low current to it to open it when I clean it. I may even soak the top part in cleaner. As the screens are partly gone, it could have gunk in it. Then reinstall. Flush the system, and re-clean.

If this does not do it, and the unit checks O.K. electronically, then I’m stuck with a bad valve, and It’s time to do the full rack (they can be found rebuilt with warranty for $200.00 to $300.00). So, worst case I’m looking at a $600.00 bill, still better then $2,000.00 at a dealer.

If the Solenoid cleans O.K. and the system works I will still try to find a replacement one with good screens.

I’ll let everyone know the outcome. I have spent a lot of time finding out everything I could on this, and visiting at least 15 user groups around the world. I found the following information. As I never found it all in one post or on one site I thought it would be good to post it. Please understand this is from mutable sources and more then one contributor. I believe it is very accurate. But check for yourselves.

How to service Solenoid:

Disconnect the wires

Take a sharpie and mark a registration line across the nut & on the steering rack for positioning.

The Solenoid is connected by a thin nut, use either very thin channel lock pliers or just take a flat screwdriver or small chisel and "tap" the nut to loosen - then remove by hand.


Behind the solenoid or attached to it, will be the screen and a gasket, just be careful with it and remove. You'll loose 1/4 quart+ of PS fluid....a little messy, so be ready!

Clean the screen, replace, and tighten solenoid back to registration mark. Tap it back tight with the screwdriver or chisel you used.

Good cleaner to use:
Suggest 3-M Adhesive Cleaner instead of Brake Cleaner. The brake stuff is fairly 'mean' with toluene in it !!!! And it evaporates too fast for an overall cleaner. The 3-M product # is 08984 in a qt. or 08987 in a spray can

Reconnect electrical.

Then flush system.

Directions on flushing system:
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...ower++steering

Or:
http://www.lexls.com/psflush.html

It takes about 7 to 8 quarts to flush most systems clean one time. Use Dextron III Transmission fluid. Valvoline makes a good one for High Mileage cars.

After flushing system it is best to re-clean the screen again.


Checking the Solenoid electrically:
Measure the resistance on the solenoid. It should be between 6 and 11 ohm. After this check the operation. Connect battery terminals to the solenoid. when you look at the connector the left one is - and right one is +. Check that the solenoid makes clicks sound.. don’t apply voltage for more then 30 sec otherwise you will burn it.. if you have to repeat the procedure wait till it cools down so you can touch it with your hand. If there is no click sound replace the pressure control valve with the solenoid valve.

Checking the power steering ECU. There is a PPS ECU specifically put there for the purpose of switching the solenoid on and off. Its located under the steering wheel right next to tilt & telescopic ECU. Check the voltage between the ECU - and ground connectors. - connector is in the upper left corner and ground is in lower left corner if you look at the connector while its plugged in into the ecu. voltage should be between 0.15 and 0.2 V with the engine idling. lift the car and put it in Drive. check the voltage while car running at 60 mph. it should be between 0.04 and 0.16 V. If its no you have to get yourself a new ECU. Don’t forget to check the wire from the ECU to the solenoid and make sure its ok might be just a wire problem


Picture of solenoid and nut (in this photo here he asks is this the Solenoid and do you pound here, the answer is yes) :
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...cmd=si&img=217


If needed rebuild of Power steering pump:
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...showtopic=9851

If needed information on the Air Control Valve (located on the side of the Power Steering Pump).:
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...6&hl=air+valve

and:
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...opic=10364&hl=

and this guy states he can get parts… I have no idea if he is good or bad…….
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...hreadid=125839

Lexs400

Excellent write up. ! This should become a sticky as it is so common on the LS.
Mods

Lexozz

This thread is a life saver. My pump is going @ 228K . I''m going to try and rebuild my p/s pump myself.

I agree, this must be a sticky.

gtfour43

Very good write up. I agree on the sticky

lorenzo816

From all the back-and-forths here about PS swaps and rebuilds.... this is great news.

I just rolled over 180k on my 92 and I know the PS is going soon.
Glad to hear there is more info since the last time I have "Searched"

Thanks!

lorenzo816
92 LS400 180k

b1ackhawk

OK, i tried this same procedure on my 95 SC, and there is no way this could be done without either: a special tool or taking the entire rack down.

First, i couldnt even get the electical plug disconnected. There is not enough room for my hand to get down there, so i used a lockgrip pliers to grap the base of the plug and a screw driver to push the release tab. As hard as i could pull it, it would not come out.

Secondly, there is no room to fit a plier or wrench around the solenoid nut. I tried for 45 min to "tap" it loose with a hammer and screwdriver, but it did not budge. And i have to say that it was not easy to attempt due to the limited space.

I ended up just doing a flush and my p/s still whines. Frustrated. BAH!

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

dont know about ur SC but i can access this plug w/o too much trouble on my UCF20.

b1ackhawk

LS though, not SC. LS is a little wider car, prob more room.

damon

I posted a pic awhile back, here at CL of a removed UCF-10 PS solenoid & control valve.

Great Post 914lps!!

ryanSC300lover

iTrader: (1)

My car was also serviced at Vista Lexus all its life and the PS pump was done at 70K miles, car now has 117K. There is a slight seepage leak on to the CV boot. No leaks on the ground.