RA40

iTrader: (6)

Thanks to Lexkost for this affordable mod.

I had Todd order some bushings and I was able to install the rears today. Super easy, it bolted right up with the addition of some larger diameter washers. My short trip around the block, I noticed that the back end doesn't roll as much and the response is quicker. I wasn't in the mood to drag out the jack and jackstands so the fronts will go on another day. If it performs like the back end does and it should...this is a super affordable handling mod.

Here is a quick snap of the rear parts:

Lexkost

Mike when doing the front do not raise car just turn wheels for access, this way you don't have to fight the swaybar pressure .

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Good to see you back Mike!
Thanks for the tip, possibly Sunday I'll have a go at these.

That lube Todd included...it is a gooey mess. What did you use on yours?

Lexkost

I used some stuff like that also ..............Plus I have grease fittings on mine also , so now I use regular grease.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

The old bushings though not appearing to look too bad must have been worn. While I still have that spring bind issue we'd talked about, a clunk I used to hear is now gone. Looks like it is time to start going through the rest of the car and replacing other bushings.

You still have your original front strut bars right?

Byrdman

Appreciate the comments on your new bushings. Have mine on order. Not having done this before, anything the experts can pass along before i jump in?

I'm a recent new owner of a 95 and working my way on bringing it up to specs. Think the bushing are also shot on the Strut bar rods & are the to-do list as well. Unfortunately, pushed a little further back on the list after a starter replacement.

thanks,
greg

Jasoneo5

iTrader: (4)

Did you have to take out the entire swap bar in order to install them? I do have some HUGE CLUNKING that goes on every time the road is uneven which is horrible. How much did they cost? I am looking to replace both my front and rear. I have a 1991 LS, do you think that would be able to do the job myself? Thanks,

-Jason

RA40

iTrader: (6)

The rears sway bar bushings are easy to do. Loosen the 4-12mm bolts and the sway bar will drop down. Simple remove and replace...about 20 minutes of laying on your back. You don't even have to raise the car up if you are a string bean like myself. Haven't done the front yet but that should be similar to the rear. Cost for these bushings is about $30.

As for the strut bars...on the UCF 20/21, the front go for about $115 each. The rears, I dunno. This may also be ball joints and other bushing wear so you'll have to check with your mechanic on those pieces.

I feel your pain with the starter replacement. Mine got me $700.

Byrdman

RA40, thanks for the installation tips. Sounds like something to do this Saturday.

Have seen a number of your other posts and looks like following the same pattern. Thanks for being so active. Catching up items like starter- sounds like you also have a good mechanic, cost me $705. Hope to do most of the rest myself & have replaced both front seat belts, changed out filters. Next up are the strut rods & Bilstein struts on stock springs. Looks like you might have changed springs at the same time. Anything i should know about the Bilsteins's. Have modded a lot of cars, sold am M3 for the LS400 & still have Mustang Cobra convt & S2000. Have struggled with lowering the Lexus given some of my experiences with the others. Like yourself, willing to give up a little of the Lexus ride for increased handling.
greg

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Greg-

The Bilsteins are wonderful units. With your stock springs using the lower setting if you choose, you'll likely get about 1/2" drop. You'll still have about 2.50"-2.75" of travel so are good to go. Combined with the Eibach springs on the lower spring perch setting, there is only about 1" of suspension travel unfortunately.
The car still rides very nicely and only a die-hard LS400 owner will detect that it is a slight bit stiffer. As I may have eluded in the Tein CS post, if I were doing this whole thing again knowing how the suspenion would be, I'd buy Tein. The cost difference while not small would be well worth the expense. (I'm under the presumption you may want to lower it.)

I wish I could offer you tips on the strut assembly removal and install. I got one corner in on mine and I decided I'd let someone who had the expeience finish the job off. It took me 2 hours to figure out how the front was finessed in/out and considering the overall cost to do the install was $250, it didn't seem reasonable for me to continue to save money. Todd at TM Engineering had the whole thing completed in 3.5 hours.

As Lexkost discovered for us, these sway bar bushings will further enhance the handling of our cars. The modest price is a killer mod.

Byrdman

Mike,
Sounds like we have a common approach on the time vs cost approach. I just hate paying someone to do the easy repairs. Think i'll be leaving this one at stock height. Beautiful weekend in the Midwest so replaced all 4 of the sway bar bushings. Like you said, was able to slide under for the rears. If you're able to slide under to do the fronts especially with the Eibachs, we need to send you a case of protein drinks. Ended up putting it on the rhino ramps to have enough room for me to work. The ones in there didn't look too bad for 112k miles. Thanks to Lexkost and yourself, very pleased in the little bit of driving since then. Defintely a little flatter & more composed when making turns. My wife & daughter will be happy they won't be thrown around quite so much.

Strut rod cushions did look torn while under there which might explain one of my infrequent suspension noises if the sway bar bushings didn't take care of it. Didn't look like it would be too difficult to swap out the strut rods. My shop manual hasn't arriived yet so don't know what the procedure calls for. If i do the Bilsteins before winter might just have the strut rods done at the same time, at the shop that is.

Thanks again for Lexkost & your posts on this.
greg

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Hi Greg-

How many miles on your LS? The strut rod noises on mine were obvious at 60K...some of us are in the 100's without noise. I don't think there is any pattern, I'm just curious.

Byrdman

Hi ya Mike,
@113k now having just purchased it as my winter car a 1k miles ago. I think the prior owner bailed before picking up the little things like the starter, seat belts & strut bars. All seems to be the stuff you read about on the board as being pretty normal stuff for the miles & years. Picked up the strut bars tonight & hope that will eliminate the banging sound when braking. My buddy with the shop says the bars are either piece of cake or a bear, no in between depending on the condition of the bolts. 50-50 on just having him squeeze it in.

The more i drive with the new sway bar bushings, the more i'm impressed. Might end up holding off on the bilsteins for a while. At least the cornering ability isn't making me car-sick anymore. Hope i don't have to spring for balljoints or upper and/or lower control arms soon but guessing that with new bushing replacing the worn, would eliminate some of that floatly ride. The ride when new might have been firmer, relatively speaking, than i gave it credit for.

greg