Originally Posted by JnC

Well time has come to make a dedicated thread about the rotational adjustment method that I have been using over the past year or so in my retros. I have been describing it to other members in their threads but i think its better if I have one thread where I explain everything for people who might be interested in using this method. There are two methods that I imply, one is for retros that you mount on your existing reflector and one is where you actually mount the projector/s to the headlight housing rather than the reflector.

This thread will explain how to mount on a reflector using brackets.

If done accordingly you will have fully adjustment capability that is horizontal, vertical and the dreaded rotational even after you are done sealing your headlights .

I'll be using pictures of an old retro I did back in may on a 2000 Acura TL. Space is very tight in this headlight you can barely squeeze a medium sized projector in there, such as the S2k, and have adjustment capabilities.

This set used a set of SC430 projectors with a set of E30 clear lenses.

The actual projector

http://maxupload.com/img/4D639B13.jpg

Both projectors shaved down to bare essentials.

http://maxupload.com/img/D0D059CB.jpg

I usually take the lenses off before doing the work and install them once the retro is ready, this way you avoid the chance of damaging them

http://maxupload.com/img/3ADD1608.jpg

The headlights

http://maxupload.com/img/E5A78544.jpg

Acura TL uses reflector based HID set up, i draw rough reference lines to know where the bulb sits, perpendicular axis for cut off reference.

http://maxupload.com/img/6F9A2C83.jpg

Now this is very important. Every headlight has guidelines somewhere along the reflector that indicate perfect line out of the headlight i.e. a line that runs parallel to the OEM bulb. This will be used to allow us to figure out where to drill holes to mount the projector. Using this you can get a perfect beam on the horizontal axis and can be further tweaked using factory horizontal adjustment screw. The line starts from right underneath where the OEM bulb sits and is parallel to it.

http://maxupload.com/img/4C02C7F2.jpg

There are two lines in the above picture only one is the correct one, when you do yours you will only draw one after calculating the exact location and direction.

After etching that line and using a ruler draw a perpendicular line to this line. On the perpendicular line you will drill two holes that you will use to mount the projector.

Notice the perpendicular line and notice the etches in the reflector, all those etches are parallel to the bulb.

http://maxupload.com/img/FE495C7F.jpg

After using dremel to make hole in the reflector this is how the projector looks sitting inside the headlight.

http://maxupload.com/img/00B8634E.jpg


The Brackets

Brackets are made out of 1/8'' thick stainless steel, you can pick up a piece at your local body shop or even home depot. As you can see you dont need much of it. They are bent at 90 degrees and are drilled and tapped for 10-24 size screws. Also notice the two mounting holes in the projectors on the bottom, i'll come back to explaining their location in a bit.

http://maxupload.com/img/A8220162.jpg

http://maxupload.com/img/25B16EE3.jpg

Notice that i have cut corners towards the top of the bracket, this will let the projector rotate without letting the bracket hinder anything by touching with the projector. Every projector is different, the SC and S2k dont give you many options and metal to work with as far as drilling holes go.


http://maxupload.com/img/146E44B4.jpg



http://maxupload.com/img/4656F17D.jpg

In this method you will use three mounting points. Two holes for the brackets at the bottom and one at the top which will control the pitch of the projector.

http://maxupload.com/img/ABCF529E.jpg

The mounting screws

As stated earlier these will be placed on the perpendicular line drawn earlier. Each is as far apart from the center line as the holes in the projectors are .



http://maxupload.com/img/36857F7D.jpg

http://maxupload.com/img/10273ED3.jpg

Dont mind the epoxy on the side, it was to mend a crack in the reflector.

http://maxupload.com/img/B506A37A.jpg

The hole in the projector is a hair bigger than the actual screw. This is done so that the screw doesnt bind with the projector, holds the projector in place yet lets it move freely. Screws would go through the hole in the back and then into the tapped holes in the brackets. They are not tightened fully, a slight play is left and after the final install a dab of lock tight is put on them so they dont come loose later.

http://maxupload.com/img/7B00AB56.jpg

This picture shows what the final mount will look like, notice that i used regular washers for mock up, at the end you will use sealing washers. These are washers that have rubber on one side and aluminum on the other. The rubber side will be against the reflector to ease the pressure on the projector, which is more than what people exert on it using the regular mounting method, also notice that the projector is sitting on the reflector rather than haning onto it.

http://maxupload.com/img/50038EA0.jpg

Pitch adjustment screw on the top.

http://maxupload.com/img/D63283D6.jpg

http://maxupload.com/img/75123A83.jpg


This is how the projector would look when mounted.


http://maxupload.com/img/4E2E8BA7.jpg

http://maxupload.com/img/47543ACF.jpg

http://maxupload.com/img/F4EE6AB4.jpg

http://maxupload.com/img/4C2A0622.jpg

http://maxupload.com/img/5515C015.jpg

This is the final mount, the excessive brackets sticking out are cut, lenses mounted.

http://maxupload.com/img/B817C9BF.jpg

Notice the sealing washers used.

http://maxupload.com/img/FA3C964A.jpg


http://maxupload.com/img/06FE0A59.jpg

http://maxupload.com/img/B21F27E5.jpg

http://maxupload.com/img/A91F60DC.jpg

Do some initial testing by mounting the headlights on the car.

http://maxupload.com/img/4A7CA352.jpg

Each mounting screw on the bottom when rotated pushes the projector up and down from its side, this way you control the alignment of cut off . Clockwise to lower it and vise versa.

Initial fire up.

http://maxupload.com/img/867E5DD7.jpg

Some tinkering with the adjustment screws and this is what you get

http://maxupload.com/img/F553C9BD.jpg

After the headlights are sealed you might need a tad bit of adjustment for a perfect beam for this purpose you drill a small hole on the bottom of the headlight to gain access to one of the mounting screws, pick whichever one you can have easier access to after the install.

This is how the output looked after the sealed headlights were installed .

http://maxupload.com/img/B96C712A.jpg

http://maxupload.com/img/56ECA942.jpg

http://maxupload.com/img/5CCC57D0.jpg

http://maxupload.com/img/1C51A2E8.jpg

http://maxupload.com/img/B7905356.jpg

This concludes today's session ladies and gents . I hope this thread helps, i am sure it will since a few members have already used it. I see some people have used springs as well, although i love the idea but the springs may wear out after a while hence I suggest the drill and tap method for the brackets. You can pick up a drill / tap set for 10-24 screws at home depot for 3.99 .

If mods think that this thread will help the masses then feel free to move it to the university section .

Originally Posted by chrispy

FX's are gonna be a tight fit. You'll have to trim a lot. Don't worry about not having TSX or S2K's. FX's are very good projectors for the money. Plus you get bixenon.