CA 1998 SC400 1UZ VVTi W58 Blk/Blk
05-31-14, 08:08 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: LA/OC California
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1998 SC400 1UZ VVTi W58 Blk/Blk
Up for sale is my 1998 SC400 vin#JT8CH32Y2W1001310. It has a clean title and always been a california car. I purchased the car with 154K miles and didn't drive it until I completed all the work below. It now has 168K miles and is my daily driver. Since the build I have had zero issues. I performed all the work myself being very meticulous throughout. The engine work was done following the lexus maintanence manual torquing everything to spec. The trans swap was done following the research of the innovators here on board and everything wired up was soldered and heat shrunk. Now onto the specs.
**ALL ITEMS INSTL'D WERE BRAND NEW AT 154K MILES unless otherwise stated**
ENGINE: Original 1UZ VVTi
All seals oem (cams, main, rear main, water pipes,valve covers)
Head gaskets oem
Checked valve clearance and shimmed as required
Intake to head gasket oem
Exhaust manifold gasket oem
Timing belt oem
Water pump oem
Tensioner oem
Idler pulley oem
Denso Iridium plugs
Denso front 02 sensors
Megan motor mounts
PPE headers
200 cell high flow catalytics
2.25" piping w/ X-pipe & stock mufflers
Mishimoto radiator
Thermostat oem
Radiator hoses upper/lower oem
Misc coolant hoses
Toyota red coolant
Radiator temp sensor oem
New contacts in starter
New AC refrigerant
Engine runs strong and smooth. I've never had an issue with anything. Starts up everytime with ferocity (1UZ guys know what I'm talking about). The exhaust note howls on throttle but is quiet while cruising. I get many compliments and curiosity on the road from its sound. It has good low end torque and makes city driving very fun. The air conditioning is colder than anything I've experienced (not kidding). I often drive with the windows down in 80-90 degree heat with the AC blasting. But the only issue it has is low idle. It's a common thing with the vvti motors (just check the GS forums). Some say cleaning the throttle body will help but I haven't tried. The car never dies so I left it as is.
DRIVETRAIN:
Bullet Cars W58 kit (bellhousing, lightened flywheel, heavy duty clutch) *clutch replaced w/ brand new Exedy
W58 transmission used (tripod shifter)
Short shifter w/ new oem bushing (big white one)
Tripod bushings oem
Trans output seal oem
Toyota flywheel bolts
Steel braided clutch line from Driftmotion
Megan trans mount *replaced w/ new oem trans mount
4.08 Soarer diff w/ LSD used
Poly diff ear mounts
Slave cylinder
Clutch master cylinder oem
Clutch pedal oem new also
SC300 driveshaft used w/ semi new carrier
Neo 75/90 oil in trans *replaced w/ Mobil 1 75/90
Mobil 1 75/90 in diff
The Bullet kit is expensive but worth the price. I wanted an oem installation that uses an external slave cylinder. I'd never want to run a hydraulic throw out bearing on a street car knowing that if it failed I'd have to pull the trans off. The flywheel weighs in a 16lbs. and makes heel toe shifting fun with a more responsive engine. The 4.08 diff makes the car feel quick and the LSD makes the car more controllable in a slide. The only gripe I have is that the clutch disc I chose is way too grabby. A grabby clutch causes chattering. To combat this I instl'd a megan trans mount which is way stiffer than oem to help control the shaking. Keep in mind that the shaking only occurs on take off or maybe a badly timed upshift. The megan mount also transfers noticeably more vibration to the chassis. The tranny was purchased used and is pretty notchy going in 1st & 2nd. 4th has a grind going in and 3rd & 5th are good. A syncro kit will fix this and is inexpensive. I believe driftmotion sells em. Overall these issues are very liveable. I've driven the car like this since the beginning. With practice you can take off from a start without any chatter. For the next owner I'd wait until the clutch goes out then replace with an organic face, swap out the syncros, and install an oem trans mount (which I have for you brand new) and you'll be Lexus smooth again.
**EDIT**
Installed another transmission after this one went out. It now shifts butter smooth in all gears. I also installed an Exedy organic face clutch and put the oem trans mount back in. Wow what a difference! The car is so much easier to drive now.
SUSPENSION/BRAKES/STEERING:
Gixxer Drew setup (bilstein shocks, adjustable coilover sleeves, Hyperco springs 500/250) used
Koni progressive bump stops
TT front lower control arm oem
TT front brake calipers oem
TT pads oem
Brembo front rotors
Steel braided brake lines front & rear
TT brake master cylinder oem (large version)
Rear brake pads (forgot what brand)
Poly swaybar front mount
Battle Version aluminum rack bushings
Rebuilt powersteering pump using oem seal kit
Neo powersteering fluid
Baker oil cooler replaces cheesey oem thing
TT wheels used
TT 98 center caps also purchased new
Continental Extreme DW 245/45 & 275/40
Aligned & corner balanced by Westend in Gardena CA (3490-3500lbs without driver/gas)
The combination of these parts completely transforms the car. The gixxer drew setup makes the car feel light and agile. It feels firm and absorbing with lots of suspension travel (I keep the car stock height). The TT brakes stop on a dime. The battle version bushings makes steering incredibly sharp and precise. And the continentals provide enough grip to get you through some very fast corners. Overall the car feels very athletic and I'm amazed at how simple mods like this can have such an impact on driver experience.
ELECTRICAL:
Bosch battery (smaller & lighter to accomodate oversized radiator)
High output alternator
Pioneer 80prs head unit (good sq deck, ipod, bluetooth, sd, usb, phone calls w/ mic, automatically connects to cell phone)
Alpine 3way 6.5 components used (no rear speakers)
10" kicker in box
Bass control ****
Rockford old school amp for highs
Blaupunkt amp for lows
Taillights were purchased new (couldn't stand the yellowish reverse light covers) and painted chrome bezel black
Everything electrical works. Only issue is subwoofer sometimes goes out or plays low and has an occasional thump when turned on. I think it's the bass **** but too lazy to diagnose.
INTERIOR:
Original black leather (very good for it's age. only minor surface cracks)
Momo steering wheel used (yes the horn & turn signal return works)
Momo hub
Momo shift ****
Shifter bezel also new
Heat insulated tunnel (some heat still comes through but only on driver's side)
The interior is in good shape. No stains or smells. No cracks on door trims. Non smoker. Has a very light window tint all around.
EXTERIOR:
Painted window molding black
Black emblems
Paint still shines great with some minor oxidation on front of roof and rear of trunk. Has a fair amount of scratches. Should be original paint.
Dent on passenger rear quarter panel behind tire
Has many dings
Overall the car now looks very sporty. I wash and hand wax this car once a month and use a california duster everyday (please no debates on this. I tried many methods and this works best for me). Because of this the car stays very glossy and I get stares and many compliments wherever I go. Both from car people and non car people. Nothing beats a shiny black car.
SWAP INFO:
If you've done your research you'll know that this swap isn't easy when it comes to the electrical aspect. It took lots of reading and trial and error to make this car run perfectly. The car does not hesitate at all when shifting or full throttle. It feels totally stock except for the power increase. I installed a toggle switch that powers a relay to switch from P (park) to D (drive) just as you would an automatic car. It has to be done this way or the car will throw a cel and run like crap. So basically you 1)start the engine in Park 2) switch the toggle to D (you can see the lights on the gauge cluster to confirm) 3) drive the car like a madman. And before shutting off the engine 1)switch toggle to Park 2) shut off engine (so next time you start the car just turn the key since it's already in Park). Simple enough? Now concerning the solenoids in the trans I extended the wiring harness and put them in a metal box in the engine bay (there's a pic below of this). And made additional wire harnesses for the rest of the trans and secured everything nice and neatly as possible. I do have one cel though it's the p0500 (speed sensor A). I think it's something on the automatic trans. The car drives fine and the speedo works but the cel light stays on. Because of this I pulled the bulb out and check once a month with a obd scanner for any new codes (so far none).
CONCLUSION:
This car was built with road sense in mind. It is a competent daily driver with performance, reliability, and luxury. Well at least some luxury. Leather + AC = luxury in my book. It is the option Lexus should've had but never made available. This is my version of the Lexus Sport Coupe.
PRICE is $9,500
I know what you're thinking. "It's way too much. I can get a 1jz or 2jzgte swapped car for less". And yes you can. But more than likely it will not be updated on maintenance. Maintenance is very expensive which is why most neglect it (especially on 1uz's!). I agree it's more fun to go fast. But I choose reliability over it for a daily driver. Besides whoever is interested in this car has a passion and curiosity for the 1UZ vvti such as myself.
*I WILL NOT NEGOTIATE THROUGH MESSAGING. I WILL NOT TAKE YOU SERIOUS IF YOU MAKE ME OFFERS ONLINE WITHOUT SEEING THE CAR. If you're really interested bring cash to the inspection. No test drives unless you show me that you have full coverage on your insurance or you let me hold your cash. NO EXCEPTIONS. Car is located in Buena Park CA and viewings will be made by appointment on weekends only. Thanks for looking!
**ALL ITEMS INSTL'D WERE BRAND NEW AT 154K MILES unless otherwise stated**
ENGINE: Original 1UZ VVTi
All seals oem (cams, main, rear main, water pipes,valve covers)
Head gaskets oem
Checked valve clearance and shimmed as required
Intake to head gasket oem
Exhaust manifold gasket oem
Timing belt oem
Water pump oem
Tensioner oem
Idler pulley oem
Denso Iridium plugs
Denso front 02 sensors
Megan motor mounts
PPE headers
200 cell high flow catalytics
2.25" piping w/ X-pipe & stock mufflers
Mishimoto radiator
Thermostat oem
Radiator hoses upper/lower oem
Misc coolant hoses
Toyota red coolant
Radiator temp sensor oem
New contacts in starter
New AC refrigerant
Engine runs strong and smooth. I've never had an issue with anything. Starts up everytime with ferocity (1UZ guys know what I'm talking about). The exhaust note howls on throttle but is quiet while cruising. I get many compliments and curiosity on the road from its sound. It has good low end torque and makes city driving very fun. The air conditioning is colder than anything I've experienced (not kidding). I often drive with the windows down in 80-90 degree heat with the AC blasting. But the only issue it has is low idle. It's a common thing with the vvti motors (just check the GS forums). Some say cleaning the throttle body will help but I haven't tried. The car never dies so I left it as is.
DRIVETRAIN:
Bullet Cars W58 kit (bellhousing, lightened flywheel, heavy duty clutch) *clutch replaced w/ brand new Exedy
W58 transmission used (tripod shifter)
Short shifter w/ new oem bushing (big white one)
Tripod bushings oem
Trans output seal oem
Toyota flywheel bolts
Steel braided clutch line from Driftmotion
Megan trans mount *replaced w/ new oem trans mount
4.08 Soarer diff w/ LSD used
Poly diff ear mounts
Slave cylinder
Clutch master cylinder oem
Clutch pedal oem new also
SC300 driveshaft used w/ semi new carrier
Neo 75/90 oil in trans *replaced w/ Mobil 1 75/90
Mobil 1 75/90 in diff
The Bullet kit is expensive but worth the price. I wanted an oem installation that uses an external slave cylinder. I'd never want to run a hydraulic throw out bearing on a street car knowing that if it failed I'd have to pull the trans off. The flywheel weighs in a 16lbs. and makes heel toe shifting fun with a more responsive engine. The 4.08 diff makes the car feel quick and the LSD makes the car more controllable in a slide. The only gripe I have is that the clutch disc I chose is way too grabby. A grabby clutch causes chattering. To combat this I instl'd a megan trans mount which is way stiffer than oem to help control the shaking. Keep in mind that the shaking only occurs on take off or maybe a badly timed upshift. The megan mount also transfers noticeably more vibration to the chassis. The tranny was purchased used and is pretty notchy going in 1st & 2nd. 4th has a grind going in and 3rd & 5th are good. A syncro kit will fix this and is inexpensive. I believe driftmotion sells em. Overall these issues are very liveable. I've driven the car like this since the beginning. With practice you can take off from a start without any chatter. For the next owner I'd wait until the clutch goes out then replace with an organic face, swap out the syncros, and install an oem trans mount (which I have for you brand new) and you'll be Lexus smooth again.
**EDIT**
Installed another transmission after this one went out. It now shifts butter smooth in all gears. I also installed an Exedy organic face clutch and put the oem trans mount back in. Wow what a difference! The car is so much easier to drive now.
SUSPENSION/BRAKES/STEERING:
Gixxer Drew setup (bilstein shocks, adjustable coilover sleeves, Hyperco springs 500/250) used
Koni progressive bump stops
TT front lower control arm oem
TT front brake calipers oem
TT pads oem
Brembo front rotors
Steel braided brake lines front & rear
TT brake master cylinder oem (large version)
Rear brake pads (forgot what brand)
Poly swaybar front mount
Battle Version aluminum rack bushings
Rebuilt powersteering pump using oem seal kit
Neo powersteering fluid
Baker oil cooler replaces cheesey oem thing
TT wheels used
TT 98 center caps also purchased new
Continental Extreme DW 245/45 & 275/40
Aligned & corner balanced by Westend in Gardena CA (3490-3500lbs without driver/gas)
The combination of these parts completely transforms the car. The gixxer drew setup makes the car feel light and agile. It feels firm and absorbing with lots of suspension travel (I keep the car stock height). The TT brakes stop on a dime. The battle version bushings makes steering incredibly sharp and precise. And the continentals provide enough grip to get you through some very fast corners. Overall the car feels very athletic and I'm amazed at how simple mods like this can have such an impact on driver experience.
ELECTRICAL:
Bosch battery (smaller & lighter to accomodate oversized radiator)
High output alternator
Pioneer 80prs head unit (good sq deck, ipod, bluetooth, sd, usb, phone calls w/ mic, automatically connects to cell phone)
Alpine 3way 6.5 components used (no rear speakers)
10" kicker in box
Bass control ****
Rockford old school amp for highs
Blaupunkt amp for lows
Taillights were purchased new (couldn't stand the yellowish reverse light covers) and painted chrome bezel black
Everything electrical works. Only issue is subwoofer sometimes goes out or plays low and has an occasional thump when turned on. I think it's the bass **** but too lazy to diagnose.
INTERIOR:
Original black leather (very good for it's age. only minor surface cracks)
Momo steering wheel used (yes the horn & turn signal return works)
Momo hub
Momo shift ****
Shifter bezel also new
Heat insulated tunnel (some heat still comes through but only on driver's side)
The interior is in good shape. No stains or smells. No cracks on door trims. Non smoker. Has a very light window tint all around.
EXTERIOR:
Painted window molding black
Black emblems
Paint still shines great with some minor oxidation on front of roof and rear of trunk. Has a fair amount of scratches. Should be original paint.
Dent on passenger rear quarter panel behind tire
Has many dings
Overall the car now looks very sporty. I wash and hand wax this car once a month and use a california duster everyday (please no debates on this. I tried many methods and this works best for me). Because of this the car stays very glossy and I get stares and many compliments wherever I go. Both from car people and non car people. Nothing beats a shiny black car.
SWAP INFO:
If you've done your research you'll know that this swap isn't easy when it comes to the electrical aspect. It took lots of reading and trial and error to make this car run perfectly. The car does not hesitate at all when shifting or full throttle. It feels totally stock except for the power increase. I installed a toggle switch that powers a relay to switch from P (park) to D (drive) just as you would an automatic car. It has to be done this way or the car will throw a cel and run like crap. So basically you 1)start the engine in Park 2) switch the toggle to D (you can see the lights on the gauge cluster to confirm) 3) drive the car like a madman. And before shutting off the engine 1)switch toggle to Park 2) shut off engine (so next time you start the car just turn the key since it's already in Park). Simple enough? Now concerning the solenoids in the trans I extended the wiring harness and put them in a metal box in the engine bay (there's a pic below of this). And made additional wire harnesses for the rest of the trans and secured everything nice and neatly as possible. I do have one cel though it's the p0500 (speed sensor A). I think it's something on the automatic trans. The car drives fine and the speedo works but the cel light stays on. Because of this I pulled the bulb out and check once a month with a obd scanner for any new codes (so far none).
CONCLUSION:
This car was built with road sense in mind. It is a competent daily driver with performance, reliability, and luxury. Well at least some luxury. Leather + AC = luxury in my book. It is the option Lexus should've had but never made available. This is my version of the Lexus Sport Coupe.
PRICE is $9,500
I know what you're thinking. "It's way too much. I can get a 1jz or 2jzgte swapped car for less". And yes you can. But more than likely it will not be updated on maintenance. Maintenance is very expensive which is why most neglect it (especially on 1uz's!). I agree it's more fun to go fast. But I choose reliability over it for a daily driver. Besides whoever is interested in this car has a passion and curiosity for the 1UZ vvti such as myself.
*I WILL NOT NEGOTIATE THROUGH MESSAGING. I WILL NOT TAKE YOU SERIOUS IF YOU MAKE ME OFFERS ONLINE WITHOUT SEEING THE CAR. If you're really interested bring cash to the inspection. No test drives unless you show me that you have full coverage on your insurance or you let me hold your cash. NO EXCEPTIONS. Car is located in Buena Park CA and viewings will be made by appointment on weekends only. Thanks for looking!
Last edited by Da Coupe; 08-19-14 at 07:14 PM. Reason: changes to drivetrain
06-02-14, 05:11 PM
#6
Great job on the car. Its got almost everything I want to do to mine. It must run like a beast with the manual.
I'm still piecing together the manual swap, but it looks like you did a great job keeping it as close to stock as possible
Question though, why sell it so soon after putting all that work into it? GLWS either way!
I'm still piecing together the manual swap, but it looks like you did a great job keeping it as close to stock as possible
Question though, why sell it so soon after putting all that work into it? GLWS either way!
Trending Topics
06-02-14, 07:41 PM
#8
Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: LA/OC California
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great job on the car. Its got almost everything I want to do to mine. It must run like a beast with the manual.
I'm still piecing together the manual swap, but it looks like you did a great job keeping it as close to stock as possible
Question though, why sell it so soon after putting all that work into it? GLWS either way!
I'm still piecing together the manual swap, but it looks like you did a great job keeping it as close to stock as possible
Question though, why sell it so soon after putting all that work into it? GLWS either way!
06-16-14, 02:51 PM
#9
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Pa
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car looks so clean, I am thinking about doing the swap to my 98 sc400, so i might be hitting you up for some pointers and write ups. Now the hard part is just collecting everything i need, since I am still new to this it been tough but with help and my mechanic friend I am sure it will work out.
06-17-14, 07:25 PM
#11
Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: LA/OC California
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well on my way to work this morning the tranny decided to go out. What a coincidence. I'm glad it happened to me than the next owner though. So now I'll be replacing the trans and install a brand new organic face clutch while I'm at it. I already removed the old trans today and just have to source a good working unit. As far as smog... you can put the bulb back but it'll still have a p0500 cel. You're going to have to be "creative" with smog. I might be able to help with that.
06-29-14, 01:09 PM
#12
Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: LA/OC California
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok new trans has been in for a couple days now. Installed a new Exedy organic clutch and new oem trans mount. Still breaking in the clutch but the car drives sooo much smoother now. No grinds in any gears. Shifts perfectly. And no more vibration from the megan mount.
