PK_Celsior

iTrader: (18)

Hello
The 1995 LS400 UCF20
Stock Speaker Size Front/Rear 5.5 Inch Fit 5.25 Inch Had To Redrill New Mounting Points
Stock Subwoofer Size 8 Inch Rear Deck 40Watt RMS
198Watt Max On Premium Audio Amplifier

My Setup:
CDT Audio CL-51A-25A Components All Around 120Watt RMS 4ohm Each
Kicker SSMB8 Midbass 175Watt RMS 4ohm Each
Pioneer AVH-5700DVD In-Dash DVD
Rockford Fosgate P.325 Mono Amplifier 175Watt RMS 4ohm x 1
Eclipse EA4100 4 Channel Amplifier 75Watt RMS 4ohm x 4

komar

iTrader: (1)

great FAQ...just wish i would have looked for it before i hooked up an amp to stock sub. using rem. turn on from stock 4 ch amp, pin 14a.

i'll post up pics of install too.

handoverfi

iTrader: (7)

this damn site wants to charge for instructions on how to remove the door panels

lexs300

does anyone have a complete DIY on how i can install my double din indash nav/dvd headunit. i have dash kit and also if it makes a difference i have subs currently. if someone could please help me i would appreciate it, thanks

en11871

PK,

Where are your amps located? I'm torned. I only want, maybe, a little better sound than my factory Pioneer system in my 2LS. I was planning on changing the headunit to power 2 5.25" components in the front, 2 5.25" 2-ways in the back, and an aftermarket mono amp to power an 8" sub. OK, I will refer everything to the factory locations OK? Will the tweeters of the component system fit, with minimal modification? Will the new mono amp fit in place of the factory amp under the passenger seat? The amp I will get will be the smallest in size possible, because I believe the pioneer amp is quite small. Remember, I'm really looking to blow off doors...just upgrading/replacing. It makes sense to me because my factory head unit's LCD display is done as well. Any opinions and pointers will be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.

lexgs1998

I am looking to up my 1998 Lexus GS300 sound system.
I was using bestbuy.coms fit guide to see what size speakers would fit.
Some how the guide says a standard 6 1/2" will fit and a 6-8" would fit also.
Which size is standard and do both fit with out moding done to the door pannel?

(ps. havent rele done any moding to this style car. only 18 so if this is a stupid question sorry I just dont think both could fit w/o modification.

Jellopool

I have just purchased a 1991 Lexus LS400 sedan with the pioneer system. The system has a cassette player that did not work so I went to salvage yard and bought a Lexus LS400 Nakimichi head unit and it plugged in just fine and cassette works. I do not have a cd changer option although the head unit has the capablitiy to control one should I ever desire to add this unit at a later time. Here is what I want to do and I would like some input from you guys who have already been down this road. My stereo sounds so so because the paper cone speakers are either torn or dry rotted with age so they all need replacement. I would like to know the impedance of the speakers including sub so I can buy the correct ohm speaker for the car. Also, this is not my first time doing a major multi amp, sound processor upgrade to a vehicle so I am pretty knowledgeable about what you have to say with out it going over my head. I need to know if there are components in the front doors (separate tweeter from midrange) and if the rear side panel speakers are 1 or 2 way mids. The sub located just under the rear window glass appears to be an 8" but as I read this forum I keep hearing it is 10". What is the ohm load of this speaker? Can the clearances of any or all speakers be cut out with a dremmel to accomadate a larger speaker? Also, I do not plan to remove the Nak head unit. In stead my plan is to add two componets to the mix. JL audio CL441sp clean sweep and a JL audio CL-SSI. These are both sound processors that take the signal from the Nak head unit and spruce it up as well as providing pre outs for multi amp installs. Lastly, I do not like to take on a major electronic project such as this with out a wireing schematic/ blueprint of the audio system. Any one know of such a place to obtain a free copy? Thank you all in advance. Jellopool-

LEXUSLSDF

Hi everyone, I just joined the Forum and although this might seem dumb, I am really confused after reading for 2 hours. Is there a direct link or a link for a previous thread that talks about the Nakamichi setup on a 97 LS400? Or is it the same for a SC400 NAK like the other threads seem to suggest? I am trying to connect a aftermarket alpine with the same amp and subwoofer at least until i get more money to replace all the speakers and amp.

Thanks for your time.

Xplodonu

YES this is same problem I'm having!!!

VFND

Can someone point me in the direction of a guide/instructions for accessing the back of the radio so I can install my new Ipod adapter?

Criss
2004 GX470 w/nav

Stage3

iTrader: (3)

For those looking for the answer to this question...

98-05 GS with Pioneer Non-Nak = 10 inch Sub.

bguild

Guys, the 70-8112 harness doesn't work at all at least for a 1GS. The pin outs are totally incorrect for the positive leads, correct them as follows.

RF + is the black wire, position 3
RF - is the white wire, position 9
LF + is the red wire, position 1
LF - is the green wire, position 8
RR + is the violet wire, position 6
RR - is the red/white wire, position 12
LR + is the blue wire, position 5
LR - is the pink wire, position 14

____

UPDATE: I recently learned that you should not ground each channel at the wire individually. Keep the common ground, on this harness, and ground it to behind the stereo where there is a big metal tube. Your will also ground the aftermarket deck to the same big metal tube. Then, find the ground on the factory AMP itself, and reground that to a metal surface near it. This will prevent the alternator whine common on aftermarket deck installs in these cars. AND, you will not have to use ground loop isolators on the RCA jacks, which apparently can cause loss of SQ.

____

In the following posts, I will put up a bunch of pictures of my work to modify the 70-8112 for use in my 1GS with an aftermarket deck. I am the kind of guy who likes to leave things mostly stock back there. Unfortunately, I did have to kill the Blue Connector to grab the power wires out of there without slicing them. I would not have had to do this if I had had a Molex pin extractor tool, but all I had was plyers and a knife and I totally murdered the connector. So when I was at the point of no return, I went hog wild and hacked the thing up. Now, if you had chosen to go to Circuit City or Best Buy for stereo installation "help", they will kindly slice off all of your stock connectors when they put in an aftermarket deck. Not cool.

Enjoy!

bguild

70-8112 harness bag and murdered blue connector. The blue connector holds the CONST 12+, ACC 12+, GROUND, AMP TURN ON. I will edit the post with the Blue Connector part #. It's probably a standard AMP connector.

bguild

This is another picture of the 70-8112 connector with some of the pins removed. There are TWO types of the 70-8112 connector. The old one has a plastic retaining square piece with tabs. This is the GOOD one, so if you buy one, try to find this one. Why? Because it's easy to remove the retaining ring and pull out the pins. The newer one is a single molded piece and much more difficult to remove the pins unless you have a Molex pin remover tool.

bguild

This is a single wire with a single male pin. I think this is called a Molex SL type male connector. If anyone has the either the Toyota part #, it would be helpful. If this connector is what I think it is...

Molex SL™ Crimp Terminal Terminal Series 70021 male (molex p/n 0016020114 for a bag)
Molex SL™ Crimp Terminal Terminal Series 70058 female (molex p/n 0016020096 for a bag)

Yes, you can crimp these with needle nose plyers but it's a pain in the ***. Molex makes a universal crimper, Molex p/n 63811-1000.