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'92 Sc400 Replace Nakamichi Amp

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Old 05-06-12, 10:03 AM
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smpaul
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Default '92 Sc400 Replace Nakamichi Amp

Hey all,
The Nakamichi amp in my '92 SC400 was damaged from water, so I bought a new 4-channel amp to replace it. I used the wiring diagram to hook the speakers up to the amp as follows:

Channel 1:
FL+ - Pink
FL- - Violet

Channel 2:
FR+ - Light Green
FR- - Blue

Channel 3:
RL+ - Black
RL- - Yellow

Channel 4:
RR+ - Red
RR- - White

Power:
Blue/Yellow

Remote:
Gray

Ground:
Brown

The amp powers up just fine, I've got 12V between Power & Ground all the time and 12V between Remote & Ground when the key is at ACC or ON. I connected my phone to the amp and tested each channel to ensure the speakers are connected properly. I get audio from the driver door, both the main speaker and the tweeter. I get audio from the tweeter in the passenger side door, but not the main speaker. I don't get any audio from the rear speakers.

Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong here?

Thanks!
Old 06-27-12, 12:48 PM
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vr4gt
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This is exactly what I wanted to do to mine please help him someone
Old 06-30-12, 06:05 PM
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jgilk1
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well first off you didnt list or mention the amp you are using and second the power and ground provided to the factory amp are not sufficent to power any thing after market...
looking at the stickers i have seen on the pioneer amp (thats in my sc400) and the naki amp there 40w rms and 100w max output (im thinking this is devided by 4 channels so 10 wrms per speaker)


p.s. if you dont believe me that the stock wires are insufficent turn the amp on and play music through the front speakers and check output voltage of the new amp


http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-ohm.htm

using ohms law if you are pushing 40wrms per channel you should read 12.64volts output from the amp


next disconnect your rear speakers from the amp and ensure that the rear speakers are not blown by testing them (not connected to the amp) with a 9v battery... place the negative on the negative side and the positive on the positive side (speakers are capable of much higher voltage/amps this will not cause any damage this is like putting 20.25 watts rms of power to the speaker) if the speaker pops and buzzes its good if not then skip to the next step of testing

p.s. (if it does poop to life this is out of my realm of expertise and you should seek the advice of a guru at a car audio shop) refer to my first post....




if the speakers dont pop or buzz then either the speaker is bad or the wiring is bad... test accordingly with a multi meter... (ohm rating is on the spearkers in the rear and should read 4 ohm)

Last edited by jgilk1; 06-30-12 at 06:21 PM.
Old 07-02-12, 08:26 AM
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smpaul
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The problem I was having was that the 3 stock speakers were blown (not surprising for 20 years old). I replaced them and everything works beautifully!

The new amp worked great with the wiring guide listed above. I haven't noticed any power issues, it seems plenty powerful enough for me.
Old 07-02-12, 11:54 AM
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jgilk1
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Originally Posted by smpaul
I haven't noticed any power issues, it seems plenty powerful enough for me.
just be aware that the factory power and ground might not be sufficient (reference putting 300psi of pressure through a garden hose) and that it can cause electrical issues as severs as a blown wire causing a fire in the interior of the car
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