joshoowa

iTrader: (1)

I'm making a ice chest boom box for tailgating, floating, pool day, etc outings. I have a pair of old Pioneer TS-A6995 6x9s sitting in my garage.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-0c54cHC...cs#details-tab

Can anyone tell me how big (or really how small) of an amp I need? I want to make it as light as possible so that its easy to move around.

Please recommend an amp if you can, thanks.

I was thinking about just picking this amp up from BB even though I hate shopping from BB ugh.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Power+Ac...&skuId=3270504

xsh0tya

The RMS power rating is usually the amount of power you want to send to the speakers. I believe it stated 80 watts @ 4 ohms. The amp your showing is 80 watts at 4 ohms which all matches. As far as size it really depends on the cooling technology, so as long as the amp watts match the speakers thats when your going to get "peak" performance. Keep in mind most head units under power speakers (8 - 12 rms watts) to the same speakers, so in outdoor situation not sure how DJ like your set up is going to be.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

According to whom? RMS is simply a measurement of what the speaker can take at a given frequency for a specified period of time (usually 8 hours) without burning up. While it's nice to get close to that number, it is by no means a measure of how much you have to run in order to operate a speaker at "peak" performance.

Not necessarily true. Keep in mind that power increases vs. performance increases are logarithmic. For example, if the speaker is rated for 93dB at 1w/1m (the standard SPL measurement), you should expect 103dB with 10 watts, and 113dB with 100 watts (all assuming you don't reach the mechanical limits, which you might if you hit them with 100 watts). In order to increase another 10dB, however, means you need 1000 watts. For the speakers he is using, a small 2 channel amp delivering a solid 50 watts per channel should be more than enough, and will offer a pretty small footprint. That's where I'd start, OP. An increase to 80 watts will not merit much increase in output at all, but for $50, the amp you linked is not a bad way to go.

Again, power is logarithmic. Going from 1 watt to 10 watts will give you 10dB more output providing the mechanical limit is not reached. For most people, a range of 10dB is more than adequate, which is why most head units have at least enough power to offer this. For a more discerning listener or someone who simply wants to get louder, stepping up to outboard amps is usually the only way to go. Distortion and heat are what kill speakers, not too little power.

Big Mack

xsh0tya

Mack, once again your wealth of information is appreciated. I was figuring the amp he was considering had some type of adjuster for the gain and such and if he had that he wouldn't pin it to the max and have the speakers clipping.
With my comment to the head units I was getting at that most folks find an aftermarket head unit's power output to be sufficent. Usually adding any amp is quite good enough.

Side note: How do you recommend people go about picking an amp if not the rms rating? With out running tests on the equipment for 8 hours plus at different frequences and ohms.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Glad to help.

Power is only part of the equation. I always read specs and get an amp that has good frequency response, low distortion (THD), and shows good measurements. If I see a CEA measurement, that's also a good sign, since it means they submitted their equipment and had it independently tested. In today's market, though, there are myriad amps available for incredibly low prices that are more than adequate for most people. Audiophile grade gear is really tough to spec out anymore, unfortunately. S'why people still go apecrap when big powerful amps from yesteryear come up for sale. I own many of them still, but might start to liquidate since I'm overloaded. I think right now I have 12 or so amps just sitting around, maybe more. I have at least 10 subs and sets of speakers, too. Enough for a massive system in like 5 cars, hahahaha.

Big Mack

mkorsu

Mack has hit the nail on the head again!!!

Sorry to thread jack but Mack, look what I just got my hands on!

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Wow...I haven't seen a 3501 in ages. Equivalent of one of those old school "booster" packs that so many people put under their dash (much to my chagrin). Whopping 13 watts per channel, IIRC. And the funny thing is, you'd need at least 50, but in my experience 100, wpc in order to actually hear a true difference in the volume. Makes you wonder why so many companies want you to put a nuclear reactor under the hood to run their gear, doesn't it?

Big Mack

mkorsu

Yeah they are severely limited, BUT, perfect for a center channel application IMHO.