twoloose

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the advise guys, I might have screwed up. We'll see what it sounds like, the final cubic feet is about1.85 after the sub displacement. So its a big box for 1 sub, hopefully it'll sound good...

Robert_J

You can't say that without knowing the T/S parameters of the driver and the final Qtc of the sub/enclosure combination. If it meets all of your goals, then it is just the right size.

Shibumi1

@ big mack..

if u look the rear of the encl is recessed to create an amp rack of sorts.. i just modded the overall design down to proper air space...total depth is 10.5"

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Okay, but the depth of the sub is 6.75", and that puts it buttupagainst the back wall - not a good thing. I didn't accommodate the amp area, just the actual box. It sounds from his update, though, that the box is already built...

Big Mack

twoloose

iTrader: (2)

Yeah guys box is built, put it in tonight and it sounds awesome, real crisp clear deep bass..Its awesome, now I just have to carpet it and do the final install and I'll get some pics up...The box is actually 2.37 cubic feet, not including the sub displacement...

twoloose

iTrader: (2)

Well did a somewhat a test fit of the box. Came out ok for my first try, sounds good but I want more. Looking at picking up a Kicker L7 12 to takes its place...I think the real work comes in now with all the trim pieces I need to make up to get it to look clean. Could of made the box smaller to fit better but I think I can make it look nice..Will carpet the box mabye tomorrow and start trying to figure out how to trim it out....Ideas are welcome!!!

twoloose

iTrader: (2)

Here are a couple other pics of it...Box was predrilled, screwed, wood glued, and caulked..

Yes I know the right side looks off, it was a little, but the pic makes it look worse than it really is. Also the amp has rubber spaces under where it screws in to help with vibration...

twoloose

iTrader: (2)

Holy ****...I just looked up my amp online. Got it used mabye 5 or so yrs ago, so no manual....The RMS on this amp is only 179x2.... I need alot more power, would probally make a world of difference don't you think?

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-oulSmzk...cs#details-tab

Shibumi1

you could always bridge the amp to mono mode ...it says its 610x1 @ 4ohms..or . 305x1 @ 8ohms which would be less of a load on the amp versus running it 2ohms stereo on 1 channel...

if u plan on getting the L7 an keeping this amp (which should be fine) make sure u get it in a dual 2ohm speaker so u get the full 610 out of the amp..

twoloose

iTrader: (2)

It is running bridged right now, always has...My question would be is this amp pushing the speaker to it's full potential? The current L5 has dual 4ohm voice coils...My thought would be that I need an amp thats puts out 1000w RMS at 4ohms, cause that would make it 500w rms per coil... If my current amp isn't maxing the speaker than I need to upgrade my amp...If it is pushing it pretty good, than I need a new L7 and a bigger amp...What do I need to do?

Shibumi1

the L5 wont take 500w per coil, it'll take 600total power rms... dont look at max or peak power.. thats not an accurate rep of the speakers power handling.. the L7 is only 750w rms...so ur amp is still strong enough the drive the L7...

an being that your enclosure is way larger than the suggested air space the power handling is well under the suggested rms rating....

looking at the tech sheet that comes with the L7 is says in an encl of 1.75'cu the woofer will only handle 600w rms..

as for the L5 it says at .88'cu the sub will handle 600w rms, at 2'cu the sub will handle 500w rms so look to give your sub about 450rms in its current encl...


http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/...oloBaricL5.pdf

http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/...%20Rev%20B.pdf

Robert_J

You can figure this out with WinISD or Unibox. Find out what music he listens to most and see how much power it takes to push the sub to xmax at the lowest frequency of his favorite music. Chopped and screwed, I'd say 20hz. Modern rock/rap then 30hz. Classic rock, 40hz or so.

Do you have it wired series or parallel?

I'd get an amp that puts out max power into 2 ohms and wire the sub coils in parallel.

Not really. If it can overpower the rest of the system then you don't need to upgrade anything.

twoloose

iTrader: (2)

Right now the sub is wired power to power - out to amp
Ground to ground - out to amp.

In the easiest of terms please tell me what I need to do to get a harder hit.

twoloose

iTrader: (2)

Here's another thought also, since I've built this box so big, it fits under the criteria for a ported box better than a sealed box...Should I/Can I add a port to the box?

Shibumi1

since its soooo .big how bout another L5 12...then u can really enjoy ur system w/zero chance of blowing a sub... just remove the face an fab a new 1 with 2 sub cut outs...