patrick323

iTrader: (1)

Here is a photo of the inside of the trunk I have to start gutting out so I can get to a point where I can run wires. Some of the very top most fiberglass panels (on the floor of the trunk) are already taken out in this photo. The large piece still on the floor of the trunk can come out with ease. Then there is another fiberglass panel far below on which the amps are mounted (then the old caps are/were mounted on top of those amps). Also missing is a 17in LCD mounted in the center (where you would not then see the separation of the two halves of the sub box). The old trunk TV was damaged and I have a new one (nice one I have had sitting for a couple months already) which I will have to wire up and modify the mount to attach it. That is the last step. This sub box is going to be tricky to get out and I'm concerned about removing and re-drilling the screws for fear of tearing that fiberglass up. (actually it's not pure fiberglass..there's some sort of light wood element...dont ask me...it doesnt much matter anyway). The only places where it attach as far as I have been able to see are via a metal bracket the comes through and attaches near where the battery is...accessible from the backseat armrest.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Good pitcher. Shows the mark well, but was the cover on the terminal as shown? That is a very odd situation. (Yes, to clarify, I know it's not pitchers, but I don't care...:P)

Without seeing it before, it's tough to tell just exactly what was going on. I would not use that battery in my vehicle, however, because it has been compromised. Sealed or not, it's been fried a bit and I'm not eager to see just how far I could push my luck with one like that.

I would recommend replacing the battery (or letting the people who screwed it up pony up for one), and run a new power cable. I can't see why it would need to go through the battery itself. Is it possible they were using the side terminal as opposed to the top one?

Big Mack

patrick323

iTrader: (1)

This I figured

Without seeing it before, it's tough to tell just exactly what was going on. I would not use that battery in my vehicle[/QUOTE]
So what battery might you recommend? If I buy one I'm looking for something sufficient and quality, But of course this is all unexpected expenditures. I had already purchased new caps. I'm unsure If i'm going to use them once I see them. The old ones were 40farad each and I think I can find them online now for about $550 each. That's not something I'm quick to jump at. The ones I'm thinking of using actually have a better look with my set up but arent possibly by as reputable of a brand, though I dont know that. They would also be 20 farad each and, well, even that is plenty.

I would recommend replacing the battery (or letting the people who screwed it up pony up for one), and run a new power cable. I can't see why it would need to go through the battery itself. Is it possible they were using the side terminal as opposed to the top one?[/QUOTE]

I wasnt even aware that it's common to "go through the battery." What? one just....drills a hole and shoves a wires in there? And well, I was not aware there was a side terminal. I have to figure out how to get this big fiberglass tube (in two sections) out to be able to really get back there to access the battery/cables to remove it and get to cables. It's a brand new paintjob on all the fiberglass and i dont want to be bumping it around and scratching it.

Also. For a while after the bomb dropped, my head unit (in the glove box) turned on fine and even played video on the screen. Now it gets no power at all. I'm really hoping that's the only other component damaged. and i REALLY want to figure out a way to get the head unit out of my glove box. Jeesh. I miss my steering wheel controls. I have to lean over and turn up the volume if i dont want to mess with a big remote and finding one of many little buttons. That's an extra pain when a passenger is present because the glove box has to be open. It also requires a lot of wires that are run so that i've never been able to use the fresh air intake because it blocks that door that opens and closes. just want to run this aftermarket system through my head unit but I keep getting told that'd be hard or it's always blown off. Is there any reason it cannot be run from my factory head unit? That is for sound, of course. Then if i purchased one of those (I forget the name) ipod integration kits that has video; Could that video from one of those somehow be sent to my video amplifier for the many TV's or is a DVD player a must even though I never use CDs or DVD's. Everything is from my phone or pad.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Not sure what battery will fit, which is key. It may be necessary to measure the available space (be sure to include room for quality terminals) and determine the battery from that. Optima seems to be the one you have now, but there are other options. I know that Stinger makes good units, as does Kinetik.

You shouldn't drill through a battery case, it screams of rank amateur or moron. Either way, it's a no no. Don't blame you for not wanting to scratch them up, but you gotta get them out to see what's shakin under there. And yes, most aftermarket batteries will have a side terminal so as to fit more applications.

You can absolutely run this from your factory unit. It does require some work, your factory amp must be in the car, along with something like the JL Audio CleanSweep or the AudioControl LC8. Both of these units feature internal summing, which takes the audio in from the factory amp and sends it to the other components downstream. The reason the factory amp is required is because the ML system uses it as a DSP/amp, there is no analog signal coming from the deck that can be interrupted and intercepted. It must come from the amp, which may be why you have an aftermarket deck - no room to retain the amp and no way to get the signal without it. If you do not have the amp, you could still do an ipod integration, just through an aftermarket component that would send the signal to the components.

I strongly suggest you start interviewing a new shop to assist you with this. There must be someone in your area that can actually work on vehicles and has a damn clue as to what they are doing, although it sounds like that is quite challenging based on what you've said.

Big Mack

patrick323

iTrader: (1)

You're in Arizona? Gimme an address and i'll be right there

I do not have ML audio on my factory audio system and assume i do not have the amp. Also if i havent mentioned...my factory audio is still 100% in tact and running separately from the aftermaket system.

"...ipod integration, through an aftermarket component that would send the signal to the components." What aftermarket component? Or are you speaking of that ipod integration unit as the aftermarket component that would send a signal to other components?

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Get in line, mang. I've got myriad projects going right now, so I don't have any guarantees on when something would be done. Plus, I hate doing cleanup work.

Didn't know if you did or didn't, and no, you didn't mention that part. Makes sense as to why the aftermarket deck is present, however.

Yes, that's what I mean - a component that would take the signal from the ipod and send it downstream to the signal processor/amps/speakers.

Big Mack

patrick323

iTrader: (1)

Cool. This helps. I'll do some work tonight and check in.

I assume these video capable ipod integration units can submit a signal that can be sent to a variety of different TV's (or that this signal can be split to do so) ?

patrick323

iTrader: (1)

Some photos. This is depressing. Time to take out burned stuff, clean it up and run new wires.

There is no side terminal on the battery. The space for the battery is, well, just big enough for this optima battery. If i were to be able to use this one still, or if i get another optima; How should I wire up this very badly burned red wire which they drilled into the battery for?

I'm trying to figure out a way to either run them around the back of the box or to put some kind of shims under the box and run them under it.

patrick323

iTrader: (1)

As per the discussion about running from factory deck; I'm no genius but I dont have ML and this seems to be a factory amp...no?

I'm pretty determined to just do all this myself. If the leading experts in my area mess things up; I'd assume learn and do it right, myself.

The only ipod integration I know of is vaistech but they say they make no such device that can output video from iphone/pad/pod to my video amplifier via their unit.
Any ideas of any products that will do this? I merely want to be able to use my steering wheel controls with my aftermarket audio/video. I dont care so much about the nav unit display/touch controls. If it's going to be a heck of a lot cheaper, I'll just get another dvd player for the glove box i suppose.