Sub cuts in and out
08-17-11, 07:44 AM
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Sub cuts in and out
I have a jl 10w7 and an alpine mrp1000 amp.. Im wondering why the power to my amp cuts in and out sometimes, and sometimes it just cuts out period. It goes off about 15 min after bumping it (not even too hard). My gain is at about 30%.
Can it be because its a bad fuse? This started when my boy installed my coilovers. He had to disconnect the fuse n might have plugged it back in backwards. I tried to plug in the fuse both ways but it doesnt seem to matter much... Also one time i touched the fuse while the car was running and it sparked and left a black burn mark on the metal part of the fuse. Could this be the reason why my sub cuts out?
Any help would be appreciated.
Can it be because its a bad fuse? This started when my boy installed my coilovers. He had to disconnect the fuse n might have plugged it back in backwards. I tried to plug in the fuse both ways but it doesnt seem to matter much... Also one time i touched the fuse while the car was running and it sparked and left a black burn mark on the metal part of the fuse. Could this be the reason why my sub cuts out?
Any help would be appreciated.
08-17-11, 08:15 AM
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The amp does get hot but after 15min really??? Should i lower the gain? Or jus sell this amp and get a lower powered amp like a jl 500 watt amp.. This amp is 1000 watts at 2 ohms.. This sub is 3ohms so this amp is delivering 750 watts at 3 ohms. Which is the recommended highest limit of the sub if i remember correctly.
08-17-11, 07:41 PM
#5
It sounds to me like your amp is going into protection mode for either heat or a voltage drop. It does not matter how your fuse is installed as it is passing positive DC current through it.
What kind of shape is your car battery and charging system in??? Like I said before most amps will go into protection mode when they get too hot or have voltage drops below their operating parameters. Do you have another amp that you can try???
What kind of shape is your car battery and charging system in??? Like I said before most amps will go into protection mode when they get too hot or have voltage drops below their operating parameters. Do you have another amp that you can try???
08-17-11, 09:53 PM
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Unfortunately not. I think the amp is overheating. Im noy even sure when the last time the battery has been changed... It might be the original or the 2nd battery
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08-19-11, 04:17 AM
#10
Maybe try to find an amp that is fan cooled. What you are experiencing sounds like an amp that is going into protect mode. Gets hot, shuts down, cools back off to safer operating range and comes back on. Do you know someone that would let you borrow an amp to try???
08-19-11, 09:42 AM
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go to home depot and get yourself a digital multimeter (its very good for reading voltage & ohms)... it doesnt have to be expensive. I think ryobi makes one, but if you want the best it's called Fluke.
after you buy that .... check your subs to make sure you didn't blow it by possibly feeding the amp low voltage which will cause that to feed the subs bad signal ..... on the meter switch it to OHMs
if everything is good after you've checked that, then go check both batteries. make sure that they are sitting at 12volts or higher if possible. ...... on the meter switch it to Direct current (DC) or 12v
if everything is good after that, then take it back to the basics...... if your using a 4gauge wire to power the amp, make sure that it is a 4gauge wire that grounds out that amp. Also make sure that your amp is grounded out properly by scraping off the paint, dirt, or mudd before grounding the amp out.
if everything is ok, & everything you did is in order. Then turn on your vehicle with the volume down (don't play music yet), check your amp to see that it is turned on. Then check your POWER voltage before the fuse that is inline on the way to the amp which should be 6-12 inches away from the battery. Then check the Power voltage after the fuse. when checking on the power voltage you wanna make sure that its 12volts or higher before and after the fuse. ..... on the meter switch it to direct current (DC) or 12v
if everything checks out after that. then have someone of turn up the volume while your checking the voltage to make sure that its maintaining voltage. if you see the voltage drop low 11's TURN IT OFF QUICK. and it will mean that you need more power to maintain higher voltage. ...... on the meter switch it to direct current (DC) or 12v
if your voltage is good and subs are good, its your amp.
"IF" you've played your music for too long and voltage drops to improper voltage for the amp, you will cause the amp to saturate or clip which will then send a bad feed to the subs which will cause it to blow, which in return send a bad feed to the amp and cause that to malfunction. and if that malfunction has happened before then that means, there is something wrong with your amp.
good luck, bro .... hope everything turns out good on your search. let us know if you need anymore info
after you buy that .... check your subs to make sure you didn't blow it by possibly feeding the amp low voltage which will cause that to feed the subs bad signal ..... on the meter switch it to OHMs
if everything is good after you've checked that, then go check both batteries. make sure that they are sitting at 12volts or higher if possible. ...... on the meter switch it to Direct current (DC) or 12v
if everything is good after that, then take it back to the basics...... if your using a 4gauge wire to power the amp, make sure that it is a 4gauge wire that grounds out that amp. Also make sure that your amp is grounded out properly by scraping off the paint, dirt, or mudd before grounding the amp out.
if everything is ok, & everything you did is in order. Then turn on your vehicle with the volume down (don't play music yet), check your amp to see that it is turned on. Then check your POWER voltage before the fuse that is inline on the way to the amp which should be 6-12 inches away from the battery. Then check the Power voltage after the fuse. when checking on the power voltage you wanna make sure that its 12volts or higher before and after the fuse. ..... on the meter switch it to direct current (DC) or 12v
if everything checks out after that. then have someone of turn up the volume while your checking the voltage to make sure that its maintaining voltage. if you see the voltage drop low 11's TURN IT OFF QUICK. and it will mean that you need more power to maintain higher voltage. ...... on the meter switch it to direct current (DC) or 12v
if your voltage is good and subs are good, its your amp.
"IF" you've played your music for too long and voltage drops to improper voltage for the amp, you will cause the amp to saturate or clip which will then send a bad feed to the subs which will cause it to blow, which in return send a bad feed to the amp and cause that to malfunction. and if that malfunction has happened before then that means, there is something wrong with your amp.
good luck, bro .... hope everything turns out good on your search. let us know if you need anymore info
Last edited by Banda798; 08-19-11 at 09:58 AM.
08-19-11, 09:47 AM
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oh yea, check your remote. make sure its a good connection and maintains good current. you can check that with the digital multimeter as well ...... it would be kind of like checking the voltage. if you have no clue how .... ground out the ground lead from the meter, and poke into the remote wire with the positive lead. check to see what the current would be from behind the radio or where ever you have that remote coming from & then check it from the amp or close to the amp. ......... on the meter switch it to Direct Currend (DC) or 12v ... or i believe there's a setting that goes a little lower than 12v
Last edited by Banda798; 08-19-11 at 09:59 AM.
08-19-11, 10:22 AM
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also one more thing ....... i believe on your OP you said that you had a secondary battery, do you have that on an isolator ?? .... if you do might wanna check that out.
sorry if i'm hitting you up with all of this, lol.
its that i use to compete in SPL for DB Drag & IASCA, went all the way to Spring Break Nationals ... but lost to a ford ranger truck .... his equipment and everything was in the bed with a cut through cabin and i was in a '90 civic hatchback
& when competing you break/blow alot of stuff and also run into these types of problems. i'll head over to my cousin's shop today take some pics and vids to show you what we do.
sorry if i'm hitting you up with all of this, lol.
its that i use to compete in SPL for DB Drag & IASCA, went all the way to Spring Break Nationals ... but lost to a ford ranger truck .... his equipment and everything was in the bed with a cut through cabin and i was in a '90 civic hatchback
& when competing you break/blow alot of stuff and also run into these types of problems. i'll head over to my cousin's shop today take some pics and vids to show you what we do.