adreano17

what will i need to successfully do this? i already have a deka 9a31 under the hood, plan to get a deka 9a31 for the trunk. what will i need to successfully do this? i know i need to have an inline fuse, but what would be a sufficient fuse? to pull an amp draw from the back.....and do i need a battery isolator or anything like that? please help. thanks.

swtjlsy

iTrader: (6)

a isloator or a solenoid will work.

mkorsu

Can I ask why you are installing a second battery?? The system listed in your sig definately does not warrant a second battery.

If you are doing this because of dimming headlights or such, replace your alternator with a higher output model. Don't band-aid the problem with another battery (or the third capacitor in your system that wont help dimming headlights)

fatcat2

his headlights shouldn't be dimming since he has the hid's. if they are... need a new alt.

what do you want the 2nd battery for anyway? if it is for the system i would recommend a capacitor instead, much cheaper/easier.

adreano17

headlights are not dimming like how fatcat2 says. But My voltage drops are dangerous. i wanted an alternator a 220 fitzall from powerbastards.com probably. but also wanted voltage at long RPM. plan on upgrade to 2 CVXs as well.

mkorsu

Based on your system specs, an additional battery is definately not necessary. Don't add a capacitor. They are the biggest waste of money on this planet.

Your Punch 800 should be seeing a 4 ohm load on each channel resulting in 150 watts available on each channel. Most likely your gain is turned down or your Alpine components would now be door mounted smoke machines, they cant handle 150w RMS. Based on the max amperage draw of 60a on that amp you would be drawing no more than 30a.

The Hifonics should be seeing a 4 ohm load as well. CVRs will not last with the stated 650 watt output. With its peak amperage draw of 100a it should be drawing no more than 50 at peak volume.

So I see an absolute maximum draw of 80a at max volume. I feel comfortable saying that you are probably not drawing more than 40-50 amps on a daily basis.

Are using the term "voltage drop" based on what you are seeing on utterly inaccurate capaictor voltmeter?

You can add 50 batterys and you will still see that voltmeter drop to 10 volts everytime the bass hits. That voltmeter is showing you the voltage in the capacitor. It will drain every time voltage is needed and refill after that.

Pull out the cap and throw it at the head of the installer that sold it to you. Upgrade your alternator. Upgrade the factory power wire and ground from the alternator. Close the hood and call it a day.

adreano17

Capacitors are not a waste of time, i do not use them for power, i use them with intentions of a power stiffener.
The 800a4 is not 800, that is the max RMS at 4 ohms when bridged, and i am also running 4 channels(for mids) which have a max capability of 100x4. I have tuned to 80 RMS because i know how to properly set the gains.

The Hifonics is not receiving 650 either. each are properly tuned at 400x2 since it is a 2 watt channel.

look in prior post for intended alt information, and yes, i also plan on doing the BIG3. but i definitely need an alternator because an 80A alt isnt going to do its job at full tilt.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

When a system is fully operational and has the proper stable voltage, you are correct. A capacitor can help. In your case, however, it is another load to the alternator, and useless as korsu stated. They are only effective in the former situation, and a waste of money in the latter. In other words - until you upgrade the alt, you may be better served not using the capacitor you have.

Properly set gains will not "tune" the output power. It simply means you are not overdriving the amp and causing it to hit the maximum output prior to receiving the maximum signal. In any case, unless you are running your signal maxed out at ear splitting levels all the time, you're using less than 50% of the power.

I think you mean two channel, not two watts. Either way, if the CVR's are 4 ohm, that amp is rated to do 325 per channel. Not sure how you can "tune" it to 400 watts. If they are 2 ohms, see the above about gains.

The 80A alt is likely doing it's job - you are simply asking more than it is capable of - there is a significant difference. I don't ask my torque wrench, with a rating of 120 ft/lbs to secure lugs @ 180 ft/lbs.

I do agree with the idea that you don't need another battery. Much like a capacitor, it is simply another load to your already taxed alternator. Upgrade the wires, upgrade the alternator, then determine if you need another battery for optimum performance. Keep in mind that batteries and capacitors are storage devices - if there is no current to store, they serve no purpose. Kind of like having 3 wallets makes you no wealthier.

Big Mack

adreano17

yes, i am aware that the cap is more of a load on my already struggling alternator. it was easier to install now than waiting on my alt install. yes, i know that is not the best thing to do.

yes gains are EXACTLY meant for tuning. The proper way to set gains is RMS (of speaker on channel)*Ohms, and then square root of all that. you tune the amp by setting on a volume before clipping of a 1 kHz tone. you slowly increase the gain **** until the described number above is reached by AC, with a voltmeter. the setting of gains any other way is utter nonsense.

Yes typo, i did mean 2 channel but my kickers are 4 ohms, that can be wired down to 2 ohm. (4 ohm DVCs cannot be wired to a 4 ohm load). My amp is rated for 650x2. not 325.

The 80A alt is NOT doing the job that it needs to do through me though. but i cant be mad at him.

The Deka i have now truthfully will probably already be good once i have a great charging system come to think of it. I def need the ALT for my upgrade soon

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Then unhook it temporarily and reinstall it once you get the system optimized, silly.

No. The gains are meant to set the level. What I said was that you cannot "tune" the power output. You set the levels to ensure you do not deliver a clipped signal. The way you outlined it is correct, but the concept was a bit off.

Uh...you lost me. You say you have two 4 ohm DVC kickers, and that they cannot be wired to a 4 ohm load, which is wrong. You wire them in parallel (2 ohms) then in series to each other (4 ohms mono). If you mean they cannot be 4 ohms per channel, then yes. And your amp is rated for 325 @ 4 ohms, which I clearly stated (take a breath and slow down, mang).

You're lucky the alt is still alive. I'm sure it's not very happy with you when you drag it down and make it work harder. :P

Smartest thing here...do the upgrade ASAP and you'll throw out all the other problems.

Big Mack

krazyGs3

I've been installing multiple battires in several vehicles I've own. Main things is to run the same battery. If your going to use different battires then you need to isolate them. Use big power wires from battery to battery ie 1/0 and the biggest fuse you can find 300 amps or so. Also remove the caps when you install the second battery. Make Shure the main car battery has a good ground and also the engine has a good ground. Use good battery terminals too. Maybe if you can save up for gel style battires or car audio battires they have a better recovery time and better output then lead acid battires. Hopfully this helps you out.

xsh0tya

Is that alternator a direct fit for the ES or some modification needed?

adreano17

Sadly some mods, but it shouldn't be that hard to do.