JCam

I have 2003 GS 430 and the front driver side door speaker is rattling everytime bass hits. Does this mean my speaker is blown out? Where can I get a reasonably priced replacement? The dealership wants to charge $680 bucks for one speaker and installation. Unbelievable!

tneig002

It's hard to say a speaker is blown without actually hearing it, because a "rattle" is subjective and could really mean a lot of different things.

Regardless, I'd replace all your speakers anyway. Aside from the pain in the *** it is to fit any decently-sized speaker in a 2GS, you're better off ditching the ML speakers to begin with. I hate to tell customers this, but those speakers are a joke. Yes, the ML amps are respectable enough for being OEM equipment and are obviously where most of the factory package price comes from, but even a person with no audio knowledge can take a look at those lumps of paper with a penny for a magnet and realize they've been pretty much ripped off.

Do yourself a favor and just take the car to an audio shop and have them recommend you some speakers. You'll save a lot of money and be overall happier with the result.

JCam

Cool, yeah the ML premium system is not very premium. I wish that Bose made systems for Lexus. They are a hell of alot better. I was trying not to spend much money but you may be right to just replace all speakers to get the best sound possible. Thanks!

Blueshark

Are you sure that the door speaker rattle ? i know for a fact that the metal plate hinge on the armrest from the ES350 may rattle and some dynamat or foaming on it will solve the problem in an instant.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

The Bose speakers are not much better, and with the proprietary system they use, good luck replacing the speakers in a Bose system - they put an amp on each speaker, thus requiring the rewiring of the car/truck to get power to new speakers if you want them. Fun fun.

I 100% agree that replacing the speakers will yield the best sound possible, but you have to be careful. The ML amp is more than an amp - it's a DSP. The signal going to the woofers is completely separate from the signal going to the tweet - and they don't split off each other. Discrete channels from the amp, so you need to set up a component set that can handle the signals, and without the external crossover since most cannot sum the signal internally. You could do surgery to a coaxial speaker and hardwire separately the woofer and tweeter, but you're in for some work with this route.

I would check the recommendation about external sources of the rattling, although rattling of a speaker is usually not a good sign.

Big Mack

funcrusher

lol you can get a nice component system for that much. take apart the door panel and have a look at the speaker. it might just be loose

Blueshark

Hi Big Mack,

Are you saying that with the ML, i cannot wire a set of speakers component with crossovers directly to the present stock wiring ? I've been searching for a while on how to add a component for the front doors directly to the ML, but no luck.

Adding another amplifier for my component could be an option since i already have 2 amplifiers already (one for the ML and one for the sub). If i cut the amp in half on each of my aftermarket amps with is rated 50amps each, i can get away with 50amps total for the 2 aftermarket amplifiers, i would have a loud system, but more equilibrate in sound.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Greetings. No, you would not want to wire the stock wires into aftermarket components because you have no way to sum the signal. If your crossover has a high and low input, you may be able to, but that essentially means you are using a crossover before a crossover. If you have components, you can wire the mid to where the mid is and the tweet to where the tweet is as is from the factory. This allows the ML amp to split up the signal (much the same as your external passive crossover would do).

I'm rather confused by what you're saying here. Can you clarify?

Big Mack

Blueshark

Big Mack, you made my day by answering on what to do with my spare Infinity Perfect Kappa component speakers and tweeters. It would be simple to do, but i'm hesitating that it would make a big difference in sound since the minimum wattage suggested by Infinity is 50wrms/each speaker (max rate as 90wrms).

As for the clarification on my amplifiers setup, keep in mind i'm not an audio wizard. I have 2 amplifiers from my past car, one is an Alpine V-power (50amps rating) to power my Infinity component (90wrms/each) and one Kicker DX350 amplifier (50amps rating) to power the Image Dynamic sub (300wrms). I've powered both amplifiers with a 60amps fuse at the battery and the sound was great for my liking. So basically, i'm running 50% of power for each of the amplifiers.

Now, i want to transplant that same setting my ES350, but i'm afraid that the car cannot withstand with the ML amplifier, that is why i'm willing to let go the Infinity component amplifier to light up the load. i've installed the sub/amplifer on the ES with a 30amp fuse and love the equilibrium of the sound, i want more high frequency sounding, i don't know what is the most optimum idea for upgrading the high to make it a full audio system.

One compromise is to lower the amperage of my Infinity component amplifer and installing it on the car or simply do what i've stated above and installing the component directly to the oem wiring using the ML amplifier, of course without plugging the Infinity crossovers.

To your knowledge, what is a save amount of amperage i can put on the ES350 ML car ?

thanks Big Mack for taking time to answer my question and hope that i'm not dirtying up the main threat.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Blueshark,

Are you using a LOC to convert the signal after the ML amp? If that's the case, it's operating, but at very minimal current.

Let's clarify, though. If you are using an external amplifier, you should find a way to sum the signals together after the ML and let your aftermarket crossover do the splitting. This will ensure that not only do the woofer and tweeter get the right frequencies, but it allows you to adjust them better. You'll still have adjustment from the seat, as the signal still originates there, but tweaking it is easier in the aftermarket.

If you are not planning on using an external amp, that's when you would plug into the factory wiring with new mids/tweets.

I would recommend the former, even if it is a bit more work and rewiring. Given the sad history of ML amps, putting less stress on it may prolong the life.

JCam, sorry that the thread has veered a bit from what you were asking, but hopefully it helped you, too!

Big Mack

Blueshark

I do think you have the right option for my case. Will i be fine by adding an extra 60amps for my 2 aftermarkets amplifiers considering that i am disconnecting the ML woofer and front door speakers ?

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

I'm confused. You copy the part about not using the external amp, then ask if using both will be okay. Are you planning to use a LOC after the ML and use both aftermarkets, or are you just going to replace the speakers and use the ML amp?

If you are planning to use both the aftermarket ones, depending on how loud you like it, you may well be okay. If you're a ground pounder on a regular basis, it's time for some upgrades.

Big Mack

Blueshark

Sorry for the confusion, you gave me what i need to know about my options. Now, i'm more prone to go with an aftermarket amplifier and component.

As for my daily use, i usually listen to techno and bass songs with volume on 40, it do pound a little, but nothing huge. What are the upgrades i need to know about ? i'm also planning to do the big 3 in a near future.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for clarifying.

40 on a scale of what? If you're running high levels all the time, you may be looking at upgrading the alternator since that's the only thing providing power in the car. It's a bit early to tell since you haven't installed it, and since your power ratings aren't berserk. If you put it in, though, and have lights dimming, the car starts to limp around, or anything power related, it's time to upgrade. Starting with the big 3 at the time of the amp installation is a good way to go, but make sure you monitor things closely.

Big Mack

Blueshark

I did the sub/amp upgrade a month ago, i use a 30amp fuse instead of the recommended 50amp and the bass is hitting hard. Next stop is the front stage upgrade. As for the volume setting: 40 over the 60 max volume.

Since i'm not a wizard on knowing what is the capacity of amperage for each individual car, i wonder why on my old car that has a 70amps alternator, i manage to do well for the life of the car with a 70amps aftermarket sound system.

For my information, would you know what is the amperage rating for the ML amplifier ? What is the norm for calculating the acceptable load of amperage knowing the amperage of the alternator ?