moocowman

Can someone tell me where the factory amp is and how much power is supplied to the factory 10" sub? I want to replace the factory sub. I doubt factory power to the existing sub will be enough to drive something with a little more power, but who knows.

Thanks!

BananaGS

probably 25-30w rms for the stock sub
does not matter anyway, just replace the sub, if the stock amp can't give you the noise level you want, then get the extra amp then.

brendanlim

Question: How do you get to the sub? Do you have to remove the whole BACK panel on top of the rear seats -- cause the sub cover wont come off by itself....

RON430

brendanlim - A whole lot has to be removed to get the sub out. Get a copy of THE BOOK from Percy, it has detailed instructions. To make a long story short, the rear seats and a good amount of the door moulding have to be removed to get the rear deck cover off for access to the sub. Haven't gotten my sub yet but I have been studying THE BOOK to get the procedure down. So far, Percy's instructions for the doors have been absolutely perfect and only require a little time to get everything apart and back together with no problems afterwards.

moocowman

I haven't tried it, but one would think If you can remove the speaker cover from the top of the deck, the screws will be exposed. Even if you have to remove the deck lid, it shouldn't be a huge operation.

Can someone tell me where the stock amp is? Is it under the head unit or somewhere in the trunk?

Also, what line level converter do you recommend? Where does the LLC tap into? I've seen some posts suggest tapping into the rear speakers, other recommend tapping at the amp.

Can I tap into the subwoofer's wires instead of the rear door speakers if I'm only installing the amp to drive a subwoofer? I only need 1 channel.

RON430

All depends on your perspective. It wouldn't qualify in the same category as replacing pistons but it is a fair amount of work and I can certainly understand guys not wanting to fool with a Lexus interior. It doesn't seem to take super human powers but you will need to get the rear deck out and then cut a membrane to get at the screws to remove the sub (doing this from memory, is that right Percy or anyone?). If the amp is the same location as in the 2k1 GS4 it is behind the glove box. I bought the audiolink LLCs that Percy recommends, haven't installed yet but a pretty quality piece upon inspection. The LLC can actually tap anywhere on the speaker wires. I plan to run the speaker wires to the trunk (high level signal, try to reduce any noise pickup) and put the LLCs there with the amp, reducing the length of the low level interconnect as short as possible even though they are shielded. Also more room in the trunk although I figure I will keep getting more door speakers until I find one that has a crossover that is at least one cubic foot in size (don't these guys ever think about where we can mount these things?). You can tap into the subwoofer wires just fine as far as I know. This is attractive as many of the dedicated mono amps I have seen accept line level inputs so you don't need the LLC. In multi channel amps this is already an issue as far as I have seen. Some of the multi channel amps want to do the splitting for the sub channel themselves. Of course, Percy's Macs let you run in vitually any combination of inputs (up to six channels) and put them to what ever combination of amp channels you want. Others do this as well but Mac did it right from what I can see (OK, I'll leave the Mac bandwaving to Percy) I am still hammering through this stuff myself so any of you experts here, please add in if I have said anything wrong.

APU6speed

The stock amp is on the passenger side of the car up and behind the globe box. Remove the lower cover to the globe box and then look up. You'll see a box with lots of wires coming out of it. That's the stock amp. I think it's about 12" in lenth, 6" in width and about 2" in height. You'll need to unplug the connectors and then unscrew the amp from the two mounting brackets to remove it.

You can only get access to the stock sub by removing the rear seats and the rear deck panel. I have't taken apart the rear deck to get to my subwoofer in a while, so the following instructions are by memory. The entire rear seat cushion is held by clasps. You should be able to grab the seat cushion and pull it up from the clasps. I think I put my hands underneath the front of the left and right cushions and pulled straight up to release the clasp. Next, remove the rear seat headrests. Behind the head rests you'll see a flap. Open the flap and you'll see a nut which holds the back rest. Unscrew each of the nuts and lift the rear seat back out. Next, you'll need to remove the plastic cover on the child safety seat anchors on the rear deck (there are three of them on the rear deck). After removing the covers, you should see a bolt or nut that holds the anchors in place. Remove the anchors by removing the bolts. Next remove the third brake light. Once everything is removed, you should be able to slight out the entire rear deck panel exposing the subwoofer and its mounting screws. If you can't slide out the rear deck, you may have to remove some of the side panelling around the rear deck. You can now remove the screws holding your subwoofer and your suboofer should come out without a problem. Good luck.

Although I don't have Percy's book, I would recommend it to anyone who does not feel comfortable with basic car stereo installion.

Michael

tither777

iTrader: (4)

hey guys i have looked and looked for a install guide for the amp wire and rca from the head unit to the trunk..... no success!! could you please help me if you might know of a link or site that will have pics also..... have a 2000 GS300 and everything is very tight and fit... i understand all the things that need to be done and have done them on chevy and they are apiece of cake..... this thing is tight for a 4g wire and 3 sets of rca.... please advise... thanks again