thehype249

Alright, since I work at Futureshop (Canadian version of BestBuy), ive decided to redo my system as it wont be too costly for me vs paying retail. If a person were to spend $1000 on a system, id prob spent $500 (50% off)

Replaced the head unit with a Pioneer Avic-D3 and got ipod working and everything, now im looking at adding speakers an amp and sub. Im going for quality over loudness. I dont blast my music, but i want to hear excellent quality. Also, I dont wanna spend to much as the car is at 200,000km and im saving up for a new car. At least I can take this equipment into another car in the future.

So here is the deals im getting, and status

HEAD UNIT: Pioneer AVIC-D3 ($250) Installed last week

AMP: MTX TC6001M 1800W / 300W Rms 4-Ch / 600W RMS 2-Ch ($125)

SUB: Apline Type-R 12" 4Ω / 1500W, 500W RMS ($110)

SPEAKERS COMPONENET (FRONT): MTX TX6001 4Ω 6.5" 90W RMS $40

SPEAKERS (REAR): Undecided, looking at 6x9 for about $40

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TOTAL PRICE: $565 (NOT BAD) vs. $1800 retail. Full 4 year warranty on everything too.
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Now here are some options and questions i have.

1 - Dynamat or Not. Should cost me $150 for doors and trunk. I think it would help but i dunno if i should spend it. Im on a budget.

2 - Wiring Kits? Since im running a 1800W amp, I wont ever fully pump it up as I said, I dont blast my music. I need to run a wiring kit of atleast 1800W right? Or can i run a 4GA 1400W kit? Its still 4GA so i should be fine.

3 - Sub Box. Sealed or Ported? Im going for quality and accuracy, so I was thinking a sealed box. Remember im going to use a single 12" Dual subs is not an option as I used my trunk and I need the space.

So that's what im looking at right now. Not too costly if u ask me. Anybody got any input or advice?

Also, wth is that black box in my trunk below my ski pass and Can i get rid of it? Its annoying. I think its the amp but not too sure.

IS300Jeff

-That black bump under the ski-pass I think your referring to is the fuel tank, so I would not try going and removing it.

-I think a sealed box might require less volume than the ported, look in the subs owners manual and it should tell you a recommended volume size for sealed, ported, bandpass...etc

-4ga wire should be perfect, IMO there is no need to go bigger with the equipment your running.

Blueshark

Keep us uptodate on your install because i'm too is doing some audio changes. Where are you located in Canada ?

sam430

iTrader: (10)

Here's a tuning guide I find interesting. It deals with synchonizing the tunes for staging. Time syncing etc...

May be useful.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...tive-user.html

robertrios

iTrader: (11)

That amp is over rated you only need 8ga...there is a specific calculation but im too lazy to find it and post it. Use 4ga to be safe...no need to go higher.

MTX amps are good but im not a fan of their speakers.

If you want quality sound do a tweer and woofer compontent set for the front and whatever brand match it to be the same in the rear.

I do not like 6x9s and a bunch of other audio buffs do not either...you can get an adapter to fit a 6.5...they sound better and if you do component in the rear too you will be golden.

Sub in the back...i had alpines mine were Es though...i now go with elemental designs and JL.

I am assuming your pick all brands they sell at this shop and they dont offer you any other types if so...what kinds?

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

dynamat does work. i have done a lot of cars. most recently i have done 2 evo9's. i gutted the whole interior and did the complete floor boards. A, B, and C pillars all the way to the top. did each door. i did the door skins from the inside. that made the biggest difference. basically if you dont really care about the extra bit of added weight and want excellent noise cancellation do the whole car and dont skimp out.

when i had my dynamat discount each box of that stuff cost me just under 100 bucks(almost 400 retail i belive). i used 2.5 boxes on each one of those evos. those cars were dead quite.

i saw if you really like your sounds then make yourself a system that you would want to keep. my last system i put together about 5 years ago and it has been through 3 cars for me. to this day it will blow away almost anything in the low 2000 range retail.

i dont know if you have that discount but look into Polk Audio amps. they are not that popular but when i got mine they were very well built and i have mine still from 2003. still going strong and clarity is top notch.

thehype249

Toronto (GTA Area). I may even fo 6x9 Alpine Type-R with components. Ive been pushing the Pioneer Deck recently and it doesn't distort the noise on the OEM speakers, so I can only imagine how the new speakers will install.

Ill might even do 2 amps. MTX 6001m for the sub and another one to run the speakers.

cowsgomoo

iTrader: (2)

I know at Bestbuy there was an accomodation for Infinity Reference series amps and speakers. I picked up a set of 6.1 (6.5in) Kappa Perfect Components that retail 500 for 180 shipped. Then I got some coaxial 2 way Kappa 6.5's. Great pricing through accomodations...

mtparker18

1. If your on a budget, I'd skip the dynamat. It makes a difference, but worst case, you can put it in down the road.

2. I'd get 4ga just to be safe. Bigger the better. and you're probably better off buying wires and all that seperate. I've learned that in kits they use crappy RCA's and such. I like being able to choose my length of cable, etc. It's really up to you.

3. Sealed. Sealed has better sound quality than ported.

How big is the black box? It could be a factory amp. I'm not sure. Take a picture of it and post it up.