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Old 12-15-14, 01:10 PM
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HOW-TO: SC300/SC400 Install Aftermarket Head Unit, OEM Speakers and Sub Working!

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Old 08-26-09, 10:48 PM   #46
shamblix
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Hey raine,

heres the user manual for the cd player I have.

http://caraudio.manualsonline.com/md...4aefb49266.pdf

I'm about to go check my speaker wires!

THANKS
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Old 08-27-09, 01:18 AM   #47
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To explain,

I bought this cd player from a friend about two years or so ago. He had it in a beamer, I put it in my accord, but the wires were pretty heavily tapes when I got it. I started taking all the tape off and found the dimmer and mute wires. The wires connecting in the plug had tape around them too and im guessing it was because the ground wire was loose. As I was taking the tape off, the batter wire came out with the moving. Heres a pic. I dont know how to fix it. I tried pushing them back in there but they wont stay. I thought maybe the metal pins inside can be pulled out so its a little roughed up. Can I solder it? Can speaker shops usually fix this? Or better yet, Can I purchase just this harness but brand new?
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Old 08-27-09, 01:22 AM   #48
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This is the whole harness
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Old 08-27-09, 07:23 AM   #49
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OK, here's how you'd wire it up:

Your Kenwood harness ---> connect to SC300 harness
-------------------------------------------------------------
A-5 Kenwood (Blue/white) ---> connect to A1 (antenna)
A-6 Kenwood (Orange/white) ---> connect to A2 (dimmer)
A-7 Kenwood (Red) ---> connect to A3 (12v+ switched)
A-4 Kenwood (Yellow) ---> connect to A4 (12v+ constant a.k.a. memory)
A-5 Kenwood (Blue/White) ---> connect to A8 (ANTENNA wire)
A-8 Kenwood (black) ---> connect to A11 (Ground wire -)

As for your harness plug - I've seen worse LOL but in regards to those two wires hanging out, if you can pry the pins from inside the plastic connector out, you or someone you know could probably easily resolder it.
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Old 08-27-09, 11:43 AM   #50
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Hey Raine, got a quick question if you don't mind. Why can't you simply link the speaker wires coming from the headunit (at the amplifier/trunk harness) and the ones going from the amplifier (where you attached your extended speaker wires)?
Any problems with that?
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Old 08-27-09, 12:21 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kponti View Post
Hey Raine, got a quick question if you don't mind. Why can't you simply link the speaker wires coming from the headunit (at the amplifier/trunk harness) and the ones going from the amplifier (where you attached your extended speaker wires)?
Any problems with that?
Reword that LOL

Do you mean connect the aftermarket speaker-out wires to the OEM harness that runs from center console back to the OEM trunk mounted main amp?
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Old 08-27-09, 03:07 PM   #52
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Hey raine thanks for writing that up for me. I picked up a new harness from a local shop. $26 wasn't bad considering the online prices and shipping time. Will get back, getting to it.
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Old 08-27-09, 11:11 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raine View Post
Reword that LOL

Do you mean connect the aftermarket speaker-out wires to the OEM harness that runs from center console back to the OEM trunk mounted main amp?
I was afraid this would be hard to understand but let me try to explain.

My understanding is there are speaker wires going from the stock HU to the stock amp / amplified sound / then from the stock amp to the stock speakers

Why cant you simply jump the wires and eliminate stock amplifier right at the amplifier point rather than run wires from the aftermarket HU to the amp?
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Old 08-28-09, 08:51 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kponti View Post
I was afraid this would be hard to understand but let me try to explain.

My understanding is there are speaker wires going from the stock HU to the stock amp / amplified sound / then from the stock amp to the stock speakers

Why cant you simply jump the wires and eliminate stock amplifier right at the amplifier point rather than run wires from the aftermarket HU to the amp?
That's what I thought you said... and I briefly touched on this in section D:

Quote:
Originally Posted by raine
by looking at the factory pin-out, the OEM sound system uses a common signal ground for the speakers. This is not the same as chassis ground! Some head units can be wired with a common signal ground, some can't.
From the OEM head unit, the line-level signal for the front speakers share 1 ground (common ground), same with the rears. Thus on the OEM harness from dash to trunk, there are only 6 wires sending the line-level signal to the OEM amp (not 8 wires, which is what you'd expect with a 4-channel system). This is why I ran the new speaker wires.
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Old 08-28-09, 08:57 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raine
Thus on the OEM harness from dash to trunk, there are only 6 wires sending the line-level signal to the OEM amp (not 8 wires, which is what you'd expect with a 4-channel system)
^^Ahhh I get it now!!! I did read that in the original post but had something else in mind and didnt quite get it but this last statement clears it up!

Now I can go search for the pinnout for the stock 1999 Nakamichi and do this mod.
I will be making a bypass thread for the Nakamichi system soon (using this thread for bases) right after I figure these little things up (and my system components come in)

Last edited by kponti; 08-29-09 at 06:22 AM.
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Old 08-29-09, 06:18 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raine
Thus on the OEM harness from dash to trunk, there are only 6 wires sending the line-level signal to the OEM amp (not 8 wires, which is what you'd expect with a 4-channel system)
Ok I see where there was a disconnect, I had briefly looked at the wiring schematic for the Nakamichi system and I saw that it had all 8 wires from the stock HU to the stock amp and also from the amp to the speakers (obviously).
So looking at the attached schematic, can I just jump the wires at the amp level then? What do you think?

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Old 08-29-09, 12:32 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kponti View Post
Ok I see where there was a disconnect, I had briefly looked at the wiring schematic for the Nakamichi system and I saw that it had all 8 wires from the stock HU to the stock amp and also from the amp to the speakers (obviously).
So looking at the attached schematic, can I just jump the wires at the amp level then? What do you think?

Yeah if all 8 wires run from OEM head unit to OEM amp, then you can use those wires with the new head unit and jump the OEM amp from input to output, instead of havign to run a lot of wires.
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Old 08-30-09, 08:17 PM   #58
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Ahh great, less work lol. BTW I looked closer at the wiring schematic for the Pioneer system and realized there are actually 4 positive speaker wires runs to the speakers from the headunit. All the grounds are at the head unit.
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Old 09-11-09, 11:08 AM   #59
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Did this on a 1999 SC400 with Nakamichi, will start a new thread and describe the slight differences between Raine's (Pioneer) and mine. But I still do have one problem, the subwoofer is still not working! I have not made the bypass at the rear but I do need some help determining which wires to bypass.

The positioning of the wires is quite different between the Pioneer and Nakamichi system, however the colors all match! So Raine's G4-G6 bypass at the sub-amp will most likely not work for the Nak system. If he could let me know what actual color wires were cut/tapped, I can try something and complete the install.

On another note, Raine and Reyno are both somewhat right on how to install the headunit. The Pink with blue strip wire (in position A1 on Raine's how-to) is actually the amp control wire. It is the wire that tells the amp to switch on or off (both amps) when the headunit is on. By wiring it together the sub amp only works when the antenna is upright (necessitating the need to do a cut and splice at the sub amp).
I only used the antenna wire and used the Pink and blue wire to do the amp switch. I know I am getting power to the amp, but I am not getting sound from it. Now my theory is this, by doubling the antenna wire and the amp wire together (the way Raine did it), we are getting the right voltage that the stock HU unit would have put out to get the sub-amp working, the aftermarket HU is not putting out the right voltage to the sub-amp switch so it doesnt work when connected correctly.

When Raine lets me know which wires he bridged at the sub amp level, I will try that, patch the amp wire to the antenna at the HU, and see if that will get the subwoofer working

Last edited by kponti; 09-11-09 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 09-17-09, 09:02 PM   #60
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ok this is a nice write up.but how about if you dont want to bypass the factory amp for the speakers in the car?i pick up the plug with the RCA wires in it.to do mine.
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