12-15-14, 01:10 PM
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HOW-TO: SC300/SC400 Install Aftermarket Head Unit, OEM Speakers and Sub Working!
07-02-09, 10:57 AM
#17
oh theirs an audible difference. Just because you cant tell doesnt mean it doesnt exist.
If my math is right and the oem front speakers are 4 ohms will get 8.5v at 0 ft of wire, at 15 ft you get .5 voltage drop and at 30 ft (which is what your getting close to since the wires are coming from the front, to the back and back to the front) you get about 1v. So were are talking about a 12% give or take voltage drop.
Also since you are running 4 lengths of speaker wire up front, thats going to increase interference. In case you didnt know in building they always run wires perpendicular not parallel.
So by tapping into the fronts at the front, you reduce voltage drop and reduce electromagnetic interference. I mean its cool that you did it the way you did it but that doesnt mean its a good way to do it and it doesnt mean its the best way to do it.
If my math is right and the oem front speakers are 4 ohms will get 8.5v at 0 ft of wire, at 15 ft you get .5 voltage drop and at 30 ft (which is what your getting close to since the wires are coming from the front, to the back and back to the front) you get about 1v. So were are talking about a 12% give or take voltage drop.
Also since you are running 4 lengths of speaker wire up front, thats going to increase interference. In case you didnt know in building they always run wires perpendicular not parallel.
So by tapping into the fronts at the front, you reduce voltage drop and reduce electromagnetic interference. I mean its cool that you did it the way you did it but that doesnt mean its a good way to do it and it doesnt mean its the best way to do it.
12% voltage drop? That's fine, I have no ground noise, and if I'm running with 12% or whatever voltage drop, I can't tell - it still sounds good and it's better than sitting silent with an aftermarket head unit and not knowing how to make it work with the oem speakers and sub.
Like I said, if stuff like voltage drop, etc. concerns you then you shouldn't be installing an aftermarket head unit with built-in amplification combined with oem speakers/sub/sub amp, you should be doing a full aftermarket system
07-02-09, 01:12 PM
#18
Lead Lap
Join Date: Nov 2008
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At that point you might as well run wires into the doors and attach directly to each speaker. That would be the proper way to do it because no matter how far the run of the wire, any spices in-line will increase resistance = voltage drop.
07-02-09, 01:59 PM
#20
I dont really get what we are debating here. I mean your going to cut the oem speaker wires anyways. Why not just cut the wires right when they enter the car instead of the trunk that way the wire isn't 2x the length? I mean kill 2 birds with one stone, less voltage drop and less electromagnetic interference.
Also talking about nak, i might have figured out how to do the 4 channel bypass while keeping the woofer working on them.
Also talking about nak, i might have figured out how to do the 4 channel bypass while keeping the woofer working on them.
If you figured out the Nak, I'm sure there's a bunch of people here looking for that write-up too
07-02-09, 03:18 PM
#21
Bottom line is my stereo system is working exactly as outlined in the first post. How's yours doing?
07-02-09, 07:18 PM
#23
Hey bro not trying to be a Ryeno on your thread (like you are being on mine
) but i was going to ask you this yesterday my car cam with a pioneer dual din (old school) and two amps in the trunk one for my 12" sub and one 4 channel that runs to the interior speakers what rae the size of those interio speakers ? i check crutchfield and they dont even have what is our size ??? honest post
) but i was going to ask you this yesterday my car cam with a pioneer dual din (old school) and two amps in the trunk one for my 12" sub and one 4 channel that runs to the interior speakers what rae the size of those interio speakers ? i check crutchfield and they dont even have what is our size ??? honest post
07-02-09, 07:23 PM
#24
Hey bro not trying to be a Ryeno on your thread (like you are being on mine) but i was going to ask you this yesterday my car cam with a pioneer dual din (old school) and two amps in the trunk one for my 12" sub and one 4 channel that runs to the interior speakers what rae the size of those interio speakers ? i check crutchfield and they dont even have what is our size ??? honest post
) but i was going to ask you this yesterday my car cam with a pioneer dual din (old school) and two amps in the trunk one for my 12" sub and one 4 channel that runs to the interior speakers what rae the size of those interio speakers ? i check crutchfield and they dont even have what is our size ??? honest postI''m pretty sure the fronts are 4.5" components (not 100% but "pretty" sure) and the rears are.... (checking some bookmarks)
... 4.5" in the rears too... and apparently (from another forum) the sub is 8" unless you have a cd changer, if so it's 10" (sounds weird)
07-02-09, 07:30 PM
#26
I've seen people custom a 6.5" driver in the door, but beware - read many times that the 6.5 adaptor seen on Ebay doesn't quite fit right.
07-03-09, 05:07 PM
#29
Driver
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A few things:
1) Speaker output is AC voltage, not DC voltage so "voltage drop" isn't going to be something to be considered here. If you think you are losing voltage by running 15 feet of AC current wire in a car, you're wrong. You will not hear the difference. That is marketing hype to sell big fat wires to audiophiles. 18 GA wire is more than adequate to carry the very low voltage that drives a speaker at this level.
Take a ohmmeter to a 18 GA wire at 2 feet, measure the resistance. Then do the same with a 20 foot run, measure the difference and get back to me.
2) you could access the speaker wire right there at the doorjamb and spend all kinds of time accessing each individual speaker, butcher the entire wiring harness all along the way making it a royal PITA to reinstall stock later, not to mention the amount of TIME it will take to do it - but if it's that's "customizing" to you, so be it. it's needless butchery and more time to do this.
Sometimes, it's better just to leave the damn car alone and NOT modify something just because you can.
rjp
1) Speaker output is AC voltage, not DC voltage so "voltage drop" isn't going to be something to be considered here. If you think you are losing voltage by running 15 feet of AC current wire in a car, you're wrong. You will not hear the difference. That is marketing hype to sell big fat wires to audiophiles. 18 GA wire is more than adequate to carry the very low voltage that drives a speaker at this level.
Take a ohmmeter to a 18 GA wire at 2 feet, measure the resistance. Then do the same with a 20 foot run, measure the difference and get back to me.
2) you could access the speaker wire right there at the doorjamb and spend all kinds of time accessing each individual speaker, butcher the entire wiring harness all along the way making it a royal PITA to reinstall stock later, not to mention the amount of TIME it will take to do it - but if it's that's "customizing" to you, so be it. it's needless butchery and more time to do this.
Sometimes, it's better just to leave the damn car alone and NOT modify something just because you can.
rjp
07-26-09, 12:54 AM
#30
UPDATED 07-26-09
- 3D DIAGRAMS
I figured I'd make the wiring diagrams much easier to understand just what you're looking at if they actually looked more like a wiring harness, not a bunch of boxes.
- ANTENNA OPERATION/SUBWOOFER FOR ALL SOURCES TRICK
After a few days after I noticed that the factory sub would only work when I had the tuner (radio) on. If I used any other source (Ipod, DVD, USB, AV-input, etc.) the subwoofer wasn't working. Coincidentally the sub would only work when the motorized antenna was up. Of course, you could wire the antenna to stay up all the time so your sub will work, but that's not ideal. After some thought and experimentation I found that the trick to this problem was at the subwoofer amp harness. If this is happening to you, check out step "G" in the write-up. Now everything is 100%... and movies sound great with the factory sub!
- 3D DIAGRAMS
I figured I'd make the wiring diagrams much easier to understand just what you're looking at if they actually looked more like a wiring harness, not a bunch of boxes.
- ANTENNA OPERATION/SUBWOOFER FOR ALL SOURCES TRICK
After a few days after I noticed that the factory sub would only work when I had the tuner (radio) on. If I used any other source (Ipod, DVD, USB, AV-input, etc.) the subwoofer wasn't working. Coincidentally the sub would only work when the motorized antenna was up. Of course, you could wire the antenna to stay up all the time so your sub will work, but that's not ideal. After some thought and experimentation I found that the trick to this problem was at the subwoofer amp harness. If this is happening to you, check out step "G" in the write-up. Now everything is 100%... and movies sound great with the factory sub!