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Old 12-15-14, 02:10 PM
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HOW-TO: SC300/SC400 Install Aftermarket Head Unit, OEM Speakers and Sub Working!

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Old 07-02-09, 10:40 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by BSC300TT View Post
I have had mine hooked up this way for about a year with the exception of the antenna and I used 9con and it has all worked just great. Im with raine
How's your antenna hooked up? Some people said one wire, some said both pinks... I tried both pinks (as written above) and the antenna worked, so I left it at that =)
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Old 07-02-09, 11:57 AM   #17
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oh theirs an audible difference. Just because you cant tell doesnt mean it doesnt exist.

If my math is right and the oem front speakers are 4 ohms will get 8.5v at 0 ft of wire, at 15 ft you get .5 voltage drop and at 30 ft (which is what your getting close to since the wires are coming from the front, to the back and back to the front) you get about 1v. So were are talking about a 12% give or take voltage drop.

Also since you are running 4 lengths of speaker wire up front, thats going to increase interference. In case you didnt know in building they always run wires perpendicular not parallel.

So by tapping into the fronts at the front, you reduce voltage drop and reduce electromagnetic interference. I mean its cool that you did it the way you did it but that doesnt mean its a good way to do it and it doesnt mean its the best way to do it.
Well here's the thing - this thread is about adding an aftermarket head unit and that's it - main speakers are still stock, sub is still stock, sub amp is still stock, and main speakers are ran off the head unit's built-in amplification. As with anything stock (especially since this isn't the "upgrade" Nak setup) you can only expect so much out of it. This isn't about going full on SQ dude, it's about helping all the people with SC's who are/have had a hard time trying to figure out how to do something that is normally a simple job on any other car besides this one - which is changing the head unit.

12% voltage drop? That's fine, I have no ground noise, and if I'm running with 12% or whatever voltage drop, I can't tell - it still sounds good and it's better than sitting silent with an aftermarket head unit and not knowing how to make it work with the oem speakers and sub.

Like I said, if stuff like voltage drop, etc. concerns you then you shouldn't be installing an aftermarket head unit with built-in amplification combined with oem speakers/sub/sub amp, you should be doing a full aftermarket system
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Old 07-02-09, 02:12 PM   #18
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At that point you might as well run wires into the doors and attach directly to each speaker. That would be the proper way to do it because no matter how far the run of the wire, any spices in-line will increase resistance = voltage drop.
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Old 07-02-09, 02:14 PM   #19
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I am pretty sure he did his that way because in the future he wanted to run an aftermarket amp and didn't want to have to tear the car apart again to re-run wires.
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Old 07-02-09, 02:59 PM   #20
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At that point you might as well run wires into the doors and attach directly to each speaker. That would be the proper way to do it because no matter how far the run of the wire, any spices in-line will increase resistance = voltage drop.
Yap - like I said earlier, there's that point where you cross the line from "just installing an aftermarket head unit" to going all out, rewiring, adding amps, etc.

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Originally Posted by Ryeno View Post
I dont really get what we are debating here. I mean your going to cut the oem speaker wires anyways. Why not just cut the wires right when they enter the car instead of the trunk that way the wire isn't 2x the length? I mean kill 2 birds with one stone, less voltage drop and less electromagnetic interference.

Also talking about nak, i might have figured out how to do the 4 channel bypass while keeping the woofer working on them.
Because since all the main speaker wires all meet at the main amp, it's less time consuming to splice everything in at once.

If you figured out the Nak, I'm sure there's a bunch of people here looking for that write-up too
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Old 07-02-09, 04:18 PM   #21
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Honestly your just making up stuff now because you cant admit you are wrong. I already listed the facts and thats the bottom line.
LOL okay seriously, I don't know who you are personally, but get over it. Do it your way if you want, no one is making you follow my guide. At this point it seems like you've spent more time criticizing this thread (and my Metra Mod thread) than I spent compiling, writing, and posting these how-to guides for everyone who's had trouble getting this job done.

Bottom line is my stereo system is working exactly as outlined in the first post. How's yours doing?
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Old 07-02-09, 08:10 PM   #22
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Get over it.
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Old 07-02-09, 08:18 PM   #23
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Hey bro not trying to be a Ryeno on your thread (like you are being on mine) but i was going to ask you this yesterday my car cam with a pioneer dual din (old school) and two amps in the trunk one for my 12" sub and one 4 channel that runs to the interior speakers what rae the size of those interio speakers ? i check crutchfield and they dont even have what is our size ??? honest post
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Old 07-02-09, 08:23 PM   #24
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Hey bro not trying to be a Ryeno on your thread (like you are being on mine) but i was going to ask you this yesterday my car cam with a pioneer dual din (old school) and two amps in the trunk one for my 12" sub and one 4 channel that runs to the interior speakers what rae the size of those interio speakers ? i check crutchfield and they dont even have what is our size ??? honest post
LOL man our convo in the ISx50 wheel thread is nothing bro.

I''m pretty sure the fronts are 4.5" components (not 100% but "pretty" sure) and the rears are.... (checking some bookmarks)

... 4.5" in the rears too... and apparently (from another forum) the sub is 8" unless you have a cd changer, if so it's 10" (sounds weird)
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Old 07-02-09, 08:27 PM   #25
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no sub in the rear deck on 12" sub in box so 4.5" components which mean small woofer with a tweeter separate right ?
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Old 07-02-09, 08:30 PM   #26
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no sub in the rear deck on 12" sub in box so 4.5" components which mean small woofer with a tweeter separate right ?
Yeah, fronts I've taken a look at before, 4.5" mid-woofer in the lower door, and then the tweeters up high. The rears, come to think of it, I've never actually checked (usually I was back there fumbling with the sub!)

I've seen people custom a 6.5" driver in the door, but beware - read many times that the 6.5 adaptor seen on Ebay doesn't quite fit right.
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Old 07-02-09, 08:34 PM   #27
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yea i heard of those but in my car the interior speakers are upgraded. Sony xplod all around i have just never pulled anything to see specs or how its mounted i am gonn have t check that out mabey thats why my door panels are all banged up
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Old 07-02-09, 08:36 PM   #28
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Yeah - although IMO the sound is pretty decent with the stock speakers/sub, I'm already getting the itch to upgrade everything, we'll see LOL
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Old 07-03-09, 06:07 PM   #29
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A few things:

1) Speaker output is AC voltage, not DC voltage so "voltage drop" isn't going to be something to be considered here. If you think you are losing voltage by running 15 feet of AC current wire in a car, you're wrong. You will not hear the difference. That is marketing hype to sell big fat wires to audiophiles. 18 GA wire is more than adequate to carry the very low voltage that drives a speaker at this level.

Take a ohmmeter to a 18 GA wire at 2 feet, measure the resistance. Then do the same with a 20 foot run, measure the difference and get back to me.

2) you could access the speaker wire right there at the doorjamb and spend all kinds of time accessing each individual speaker, butcher the entire wiring harness all along the way making it a royal PITA to reinstall stock later, not to mention the amount of TIME it will take to do it - but if it's that's "customizing" to you, so be it. it's needless butchery and more time to do this.

Sometimes, it's better just to leave the damn car alone and NOT modify something just because you can.

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Old 07-26-09, 01:54 AM   #30
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UPDATED 07-26-09

- 3D DIAGRAMS
I figured I'd make the wiring diagrams much easier to understand just what you're looking at if they actually looked more like a wiring harness, not a bunch of boxes.

- ANTENNA OPERATION/SUBWOOFER FOR ALL SOURCES TRICK
After a few days after I noticed that the factory sub would only work when I had the tuner (radio) on. If I used any other source (Ipod, DVD, USB, AV-input, etc.) the subwoofer wasn't working. Coincidentally the sub would only work when the motorized antenna was up. Of course, you could wire the antenna to stay up all the time so your sub will work, but that's not ideal. After some thought and experimentation I found that the trick to this problem was at the subwoofer amp harness. If this is happening to you, check out step "G" in the write-up. Now everything is 100%... and movies sound great with the factory sub!
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Old 07-26-09, 01:54 AM
 
 
 
 
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