mestizo

Thanks for this thread!!!

I used the Metra kit and then did the subwoofer to rca connection as described in the first post to get my factory sub working... it worked great!

As said by other I have whining sound thru my speakers now, but a couple ground loop isolators should clear that up.

raine

iTrader: (7)

myfonti

i think i did this correctly, but my stock sub is weak. i have my sub output on full blast, but doesnt sound good like when i had the stock head unit in... what am i doing wrong?

raine

iTrader: (7)

Your main speakers are louder now because they're getting power from the new head unit... but your sub is still running off the stock sub amp.

Same thing happened to me, the sub bass was there, just not enough after the main speakers got the power boost - so I ended up dropping in an Epicenter Plus to boost sub output... and what a difference! Since then everyone who's been in my car would look in my trunk expecting to see an aftermarket sub box, only to see nothing - it makes that big of a difference.

brad11140

iTrader: (3)

Subscribed. Thanks

cormier88

I got the Metra harness pt# 70-8112 and my speakers are quiet at max volume and no sub agggghhhh

raine

iTrader: (7)

That's part of the reason why I wrote the How-To - to do it without that Metra harness, as it seems that the success rate is very low with it. So you're not the only one having a problem after trying to use that harness.

myfonti

I used the metra kit and works fine, just lower subwoofer level... Raine, do you know the specs of the stock sub? Would it be cheaper to just get an aftermarket amp? Or would the epicenter plus be cheaper? Hows installation? Looks like a pita, and the cheapest I saw one was 140 on amazon...

raine

iTrader: (7)

At first I tried just upgrading the sub, bought a "slim" 10" with a 2" depth, but when I tried installing it with the factory holes (no extra mounting plate, etc) it hit the fuel tank. So instead of figuring out how to fab a mounting board, making sure it clears the OEM package shelf, then mounting an amp and running cable from the battery to the truck, etc. I came across an Epicenter Plus and tried it out.

Install is actually pretty easy. Mine is mounted underneath the OEM CD changer mounting cage (slides right under), and it gets its power from the CD changer harness. It comes with a remote ****, but it's to change the "amount of bass enhancement" or something - it doesn't actually work as a subwoofer level control. Since I listen to a lot of types of music, I I modified the OEM volume **** in the dash (now useless because of the aftermarket head unit) with a line-level controller (basically a **** with RCA in and out). So from the head unit sub-out, signal goes through the line-level controller, then back to the Epicenter Plus. I then turned the line-level controller to 100% then adjusted the Epicenter Plus input level as high as I could without distortion. That way I know that if I max out my new "subwoofer volume" **** in the dash, I won't overdo it and pop the OEM subwoofer.

Speaking of the OEM subwoofer, the Epicenter Plus is like magic. At 50% sub level certain songs push the OEM subwoofer to the max... compared to the factory setup a lot of people thought I had a pair of 10's in a box in the trunk! Granted it's not "car in the next lane rattling" loud, but pretty damn close. One time the car wash guys spent 10 minutes trying to find my "hidden sub box" to no avail.

BAD954BOI

iTrader: (5)

RAINE, i ordered the metra harness to minimize the cutting of wires i finally get it and it happens to be the 71-8112 harness which is a male is it just me or according to your write up this harness is the wrong one? because i haven't took the factory radio out yet and don't want to until i know my pioneer avic f900bt will be going in.

also, how would i be able to eliminate the factory amp and let the head unit power the 4 speakers without sending wires to the trunk? and as for the the factory sub i have a polk audio 10" that fits in place and i plan to install a mono amp to power the sub by itself.

what would you do?

-Kernst

raine

iTrader: (7)

Don't know. Again - I never opted to use that Metra harness because of what I read previous from other people's experiences.

My HT eliminates the factory amp for the 4 main speakers. If you want to skip the wires to the trunk, then obviously your only choice left is to run brand new wire pairs from head unit to each door and the rear deck. Rear deck is easy, but running new wires through the door jam - have fun with that.

BAD954BOI

iTrader: (5)

alright i feel you now... i guess it's time to take my time and do this right hopefully i could get a refund on this piece of crap harness i got..
i will report back soon!!!

Matthieu

Just wanted to say that this guide is absolutely indispensable! My SC300 was basically completely stripped out when I got it so I had no idea what the cables in the trunk were even for. I basically followed this guide to the letter and I could not be happier. Thanks so much for making a nightmare into an easily managed install. (:

raine

iTrader: (7)

Glad to help another

DONT SLEEP

iTrader: (8)

I'm a complete noob when doing electrical stuff, but as I hooked up the wires for the harnesses, I connected the black cable of the head unit's power harness to the black cable of the car's harness. The head unit came on for about 5 seconds and I heard a whining noise. After that I heard a pop and the power cut out on the head unit. I checked the fuses under the hood and none are blown, but I know the head unit has a red 10A small fuse on the back (I'm thinking that got blown because of a faulty ground, but I haven't got a chance to check yet). Could that be it and if so, where can I get another one of those from?