Mrcheeks51

Best 4" speakers to replace factory door speakers? price range in between 150-200 for a pair. please let me know your guys opions. probably wire up a seperate amp and remove factory one. thanks in advance.

shvc1991

I'm using Polk Audio 4" door speakers with what I believe is a built in 1" tweeter. They sound great. I paid about 150 dollars for two pairs, front and rear.

djspawn00

at $160 you can get:
MB Quart DKG 110 US
4" 70W 2-Way Car Speakers

or

for about $90
Infinity Kappa 42.9i

The polks mentioned before are pretty good but they are all coaxial speakers... I'd recommend spending the same and using some good components.. you will definitely appreciate the difference.

VNN326

iTrader: (21)

im running JL XR-650 in the fronts and JL VR-650 in the rears sounds AWSOME worth it in my book. mayb cause i have a JL amp to them also lol

Tank

iTrader: (19)

make sure you get those bass resistors.. I'd go with the MB quart..but thats just me..

Frankdorn

iTrader: (7)

This question is probably better in the car audio forum, but I'm curious: whats a bass resistor?

Tank

iTrader: (19)

If I remember correctly that's what a resistor that's designed to block the bass signal from the amp to the speaker is called, it's cylindrical in shape with a wire coming out of each end. Small speakers are not designed or rated to receive and process amplified bass sound; the signal fries the speaker. I burned out two sets before I wised up...lol hey nowbody's perfect, lucky I got the other set for free...lol

captainsc

iTrader: (1)

Its kindof like having a highpass filter for your speakers. My IVA-W205 headunit has that feature so I have almost no bass going to the speakers and just to the sub, definitely should prolong the life of the speakers.

Robert_J

They are sold under the Bass Stopper brand name. But they are not a resistor. They are an electrolytic capacitor. Just use a crossover calculator and the proper non-polarized, electolytic capacitor and you will have exactly the same thing.

Passive devices like this are nice and cheap but a true active crossover works best. Whether it is built into the HU, built into the amp or and external model. With a passive model above, your amp is still straining to push the bass out. With an active model, the bass is filtered before the amp. You end up with a much cleaner signal.

Not all are designed that way so your blanket statement is not always true. And most of the time, the bass doesn't "fry" the speaker. Most of the time the bass signal sends the speaker past its mechanical limits. Pounding the voice coil on the back plate is a death sentence for most speakers.

-Robert

Stokdgs

Also post my vote for the awesome MQ Quart German speakers with the crossover network. An amplifier with bypass filtering for the different frequencies should isolate the bass to one channel, right? Then you dont have to worry about sending the wrong frequency to your speakers.
If you really want to improve the sound, while you are at it and have the door panels off, put some type of sound barrier, on the doors, inside and outside - the area that is covered by the plastic door panel, and it will really improve the sound .
Been investigating this for weeks, now, digested tons of information, looked at a dozen websites of people that make these products, and right now, the best one to me is Cascade Audio out of Bend , Oregon. Their products are well engineered, do what they say they will do, and are way way lighter. In fact, in some instances, they recommend you only put 1 layer down, because that is all you will need. All or most of the other vendors want you to add multiple layers, and this will only add more weight to the car. It will work, but why do you want to spend more money for layers, and add weight, which will lower your mileage to a degree too.
Good luck with your project, let us know how it comes out! DanF