DuB

iTrader: (1)

Finally! My friend emailed me the remaining pics so I put them in the album for you guys to see.

The new pics show how to remove the stock cd changer, where I grounded the amp, what the amp rack looks like in pieces, what the sub baffle looks like, and where I got the signals for the new amp.

Oh, I also noticed you guys have been talking about HIDs recently. I just installed a 7000K HID kit in my truck a couple days ago. They're osram ballasts and Hella bulbs. For those of you thinking about getting a similar color kit, mine is almost exactly the color of Piaa Plasma Blue bulbs. I don't like it and I'm hoping to switch out the bulbs somehow to something along the lines of a 5000K bulb. I'm not sure if I can do that though because my kit has some weird bracket attached to the bulb that allows me to have high beams as well.
http://community.webshots.com/user/macross88

AutoCoutureSC

iTrader: (8)

hey dub, i noticed that you are in OC. you go to competitions with the SC? would you be willing to make me one of those amp racks??? i need one for each side, is this possible?

oh, Isn't there a new 8000K HID kit available now?why dont' you like your 7000K?

lex400sc

DuB,

Is that Kicker a 10 or a 12-inch? I currently have two W-3 12's in a Prowedge box with my amps mounted on top. This box occupies 80% of my trunk space so I really want to tuck those 12s away somewhere else. Since you've worked with the SC already, where do you think they'd sound the best acoustically from the interior and the exterior? I was thinking of corner loading the subs where the CD-changer used to be, or maybe some custom setup where I used the 10-inch sub opening as a bandpassed port. What are your thoughts? Also, once you remove the stock sub, the cloth grille no longer fastens to the rear dash. How did you overcome this? Thanks.

About the HIDs, I doubt the bulbs are running a true 7000 kelvin color temperature. The kelvin rating is a measure of the color hue the bulb emits, not the brightness. So don't buy any higher than a 6000K bulb. Brightness is measured in lumens (3000 lumens is about as bright as sunlight). 7000K is a deep purple color. 6000K is the highest manufactured bulb right now. Anything else advertised is either BS marketing, or a painted bulb (which is even worse). Your HIDs look greenish-blue. If you want white, look for a bulb between 4100-5000K. 6000K is a light blue (like BMW and Audi).

DuB

iTrader: (1)

Hey do-luck, the SC is my sister's (I WISH it was mine). I'd probably build the amp rack for you, but I don't have the car anymore. Also, you'd have to have an amp about the same size as hers (Phoenix Gold XS2500) since it was pretty hard to get it in there. I had to bolt the amp rack to the deck first, and then slide the amp in and use a right-angle bit to screw the amp in. Also, the front of the amp rack barely clears that trunk panel. There was barely any room to work with. It's definately possible though. Anything is possible w/ a little bit of thought and effort If you want, I can help you with yours. It's always fun to plan out new installs.

lex400sc, the sub is a 10". It's always nice to have the subs in the cabin of the car, but since you have 12s, it'd be really hard w/o cutting out the rear deck and a lot of custom fabrication. Also, you still have the problem of an enclosure for those W3s. One thing you can do to cut down on airspace is to mount the subs isobarically. You don't get as much output, but the bass is much tighter, and the airspace is cut down close to a 1/4 of what you have now (isobaric enclosures require about 1/2 of the recommended airspace of a single sub). It'd be hard to fab something that uses the stock sub hole as a port. Maybe do some fiberglassed ported isobaric box that replaces the trunk trim panel? It'd be kind of difficult. It'd sound really good though The stock grill cover is just sitting there right now, but next time I see my sister, I'm going to use some industrial velcro to fasten it in place. It should be adequate.

The HIDs are pretty close to the color in the pictures, but they're really blue. I didn't notice any green in them. In person, they look almost exactly like the Plasma Blue bulbs. That's the reason I don't like them. I look like a ricer like the other guys around Irvine. I would've prefered something around 4000-5000K, but the people I got my kit from only have the H4 kit w/ highbeams in 7000K. I'm going to see if I can take the assembly apart and swap the bulbs with something whiter. The guy I bought my kit from is currently developing a "12000K" HID kit. I bet those will look good

Drop me an email if you want a faster response since I don't have an SC so I don't check here that often. jdub765@aol.com

The Ikon

This thread is going back into the reg. post...

PERRYinLA

Well, after reading all the posts, I was emboldened to check out my rear speakers so, for the first time ever, I attempted to remove my rear deck panel.

But I was not able to remove that rear deck panel unless I removed the side panel first (the one that surrounds the rear windows).

No wonder there has been a few reports of cracking that panel- it sure is tempting to bend it to the point where it will clear the side panels holding it in. But you'd have to bend it a lot.

To remove that side panel, you need to get the bottom side panel off (the one by the rear seat passenger's hips). They are both pop-off panels, once all visible fasteners are removed.

pilip99

this thread is actually good help for installation of leatherseats too for removal of rear seats thanks again ttt

KoSC300

gotta love those 3year thread resurrections...

SupraCoup3

Glad I could help



There's nothing wrong with resurrecting a good three year old thread every once in awhile

Mooney6959

Then please alow me to do the same, another 3 years later. My, how time passes us by.

So, I have just one question about this thread (and, yes, I searched the boards); What sub (make / model) is the best for a drop-in replacement? Do I have to replace the stock amp, or will it work fine for the replacement? I have an amp that I can install if I want more boom, but I just don't have the time right now to worry about where to mount it.

Thanks all and here's to another 3 years!

Mistical

It has been a while, but I believe the sub is a 10" with a very short mounting depth. I think I have a 10" Pioneer Free Air with a 3" depth. I know Pioneer has since come out with another line of shallow free air subs that I am assuming would work just the same. The sub is the easiest to change out of all the speakers, but I would recommend adding an amp for some real thump. Let us know what you find...

Biddles

iTrader: (2)

Bumping because I'm doing the rear deck stuff now, and this came in handy.