New build up need help
#1
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New build up need help
Ok I have some question about the parts that im going to buy this weekend, and how to wire them up the best way. Right now I have 2 alpine type r 12" they are dual 4 ohm. And I have a mrd1005(alpine 1000 at 2 ohm and 700 at 4 ohm). There is a car show I go to every year that has a big sale on car audio so this is the time im going to buy it , witch is this weekend. I wanted to buy another mrd1005 but I dont know it the subs I have will hold it. I was going to run them as 1 sub to 1 amp at a 2ohm load. the sub are rated at 500rms and 1500 max. What would be the best way to run this. Should I just stay with 2 sub 1 amp, should I go with 3 subs 1 amp, or 2 subs and 2 amp. Could I run it this way and just have the bass turned down.
My other question is because I was going to buy another amp for the highs(alpine MRV-F345 4x75). I have a 4GA ran right now to the 1 amp I have. I was going to get a 2 farad capacitor and if I get the other 2 amps do I have to get a 0/1GA wire to the capacitor and then run a 4GA to the amps? Or do I just keep 4GA for every thing? I see amp kits that are 4GA and they say 900watts max, but then I see some 4GA kits that say 3000 watts max. How is this is it just the size of the fuse?
My last long post question. I read in the sticky above about how to install the speakers but I didnt see the best size to go with 6 1/2 all around? If I have to make a templet for the door then thats fine just making sure they will all fit. Thanks for reading the long post. Any help will be great.
My other question is because I was going to buy another amp for the highs(alpine MRV-F345 4x75). I have a 4GA ran right now to the 1 amp I have. I was going to get a 2 farad capacitor and if I get the other 2 amps do I have to get a 0/1GA wire to the capacitor and then run a 4GA to the amps? Or do I just keep 4GA for every thing? I see amp kits that are 4GA and they say 900watts max, but then I see some 4GA kits that say 3000 watts max. How is this is it just the size of the fuse?
My last long post question. I read in the sticky above about how to install the speakers but I didnt see the best size to go with 6 1/2 all around? If I have to make a templet for the door then thats fine just making sure they will all fit. Thanks for reading the long post. Any help will be great.
#3
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i would stay how you are with the subs, especially alpine subs. use your money for something else if you are looking to get some more car audio equipment.
as for the wiring, you would probably be better off doing 1/0 or 2 awg but with alpine amplifiers they are not "necessary" you could get away with 4 awg and probably be just fine.
if you want to do 6.5's in the fronts i have my old templates I'll sell for $25 shipped
as for the wiring, you would probably be better off doing 1/0 or 2 awg but with alpine amplifiers they are not "necessary" you could get away with 4 awg and probably be just fine.
if you want to do 6.5's in the fronts i have my old templates I'll sell for $25 shipped
#4
The 300w increase will at best give you 1.5db more output from your subs without factoring in max excursion or thermal compression. More than likely, you won't hear a difference.
Caps - Do a little reading at the dedicated car audio forums. Most people use them like a band-aid on a gun shot wound. You should upgrade the wiring under the hood (aka Big 3 upgrade), upgrade your alternator and battery and finally add a cap (and a large one at that) as the final piece of the puzzle.
-Robert
Caps - Do a little reading at the dedicated car audio forums. Most people use them like a band-aid on a gun shot wound. You should upgrade the wiring under the hood (aka Big 3 upgrade), upgrade your alternator and battery and finally add a cap (and a large one at that) as the final piece of the puzzle.
-Robert
#5
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Thread Starter
i would stay how you are with the subs, especially alpine subs. use your money for something else if you are looking to get some more car audio equipment.
as for the wiring, you would probably be better off doing 1/0 or 2 awg but with alpine amplifiers they are not "necessary" you could get away with 4 awg and probably be just fine.
if you want to do 6.5's in the fronts i have my old templates I'll sell for $25 shipped
as for the wiring, you would probably be better off doing 1/0 or 2 awg but with alpine amplifiers they are not "necessary" you could get away with 4 awg and probably be just fine.
if you want to do 6.5's in the fronts i have my old templates I'll sell for $25 shipped
#6
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Thread Starter
The 300w increase will at best give you 1.5db more output from your subs without factoring in max excursion or thermal compression. More than likely, you won't hear a difference.
Caps - Do a little reading at the dedicated car audio forums. Most people use them like a band-aid on a gun shot wound. You should upgrade the wiring under the hood (aka Big 3 upgrade), upgrade your alternator and battery and finally add a cap (and a large one at that) as the final piece of the puzzle.
-Robert
Caps - Do a little reading at the dedicated car audio forums. Most people use them like a band-aid on a gun shot wound. You should upgrade the wiring under the hood (aka Big 3 upgrade), upgrade your alternator and battery and finally add a cap (and a large one at that) as the final piece of the puzzle.
-Robert
#7
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you'll blow your type-r's with 1000 watts each easily.
it's not hate if it's true , simply speaking from experience
<--- works for an Alpine dealer
for the alternator go onto Supraforums and seach in the for sale section, there is a place on there that sells really high output alternators for the big boy supras. It's supposed to fit the NA supra so it should fit the SC just dandy.
it's not hate if it's true , simply speaking from experience
<--- works for an Alpine dealer
for the alternator go onto Supraforums and seach in the for sale section, there is a place on there that sells really high output alternators for the big boy supras. It's supposed to fit the NA supra so it should fit the SC just dandy.
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#8
If a speaker is 100% efficient, doubling the power to it results in a 3db increase in sound. The measurement of sound is on a logrithmic scale. But this is the real world. Speakers are not 100% efficient. The more power you give them, the more their efficiency drops. More of the power is converted to heat than sound. In the SPL competition world, it's called thermal compression. That's why they always start a comp with cold subs. And like 88supramk said, you will blow the Alpine subs. Just because a sub is rated to handle 1000w, doesn't mean it will. That just means the voice coil will handle that much before melting. Most of the time, you will reach a sub's maximum excursion (aka xmax) well before reaching the melting point. That's why you model your sub in WinISD or Unibox before building it.
DIY Mobile Audio. A bunch of smart guys who do their own installs. And the best thing - no kids calling each other names. It a very mature forum like this one.
-Robert
DIY Mobile Audio. A bunch of smart guys who do their own installs. And the best thing - no kids calling each other names. It a very mature forum like this one.
-Robert
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