Speaker Install SC430
09-25-10, 03:07 PM
#77
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ZGone, Thanks for the fantastic instructions. i just got this sc and the front speakers were blown. I mean it is a nice ride but i just can't ride with nasty blown woofers rattling all over the place. Nasty! i'm still surprised that Lexus and ML would allow such crap. your instructions worked like a charm. thanks.
10-20-10, 09:43 AM
#78
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sc-430 front woofer replacements
i also went with 6-1/2 " replacement woofers from parts express, but went with a better quality speaker in the Arum Cantus AC-165 woofer with a frequency range of 32-8000 hz. the bass in the front of the car has doubled and the clarity is remarkable. these are 8 ohm woofers and have large magnets but are only 3" deep and fit perfectly in the adapter plates i made. for $75.00 ech. a great sound inprovement!! thanks for the info on removing the door panels!
10-20-10, 11:07 PM
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Big Mack
10-21-10, 11:30 AM
#81
Thanks for the reply! I just bought some wheels i couldnt pass up on so the speaker project is on hold.
Btw if i pick up a 8" sub with 8 ohms.. Then lets say a rockford fosgate p 500 4 channel amp will run it just fine? Or will the sub have to be 4ohms?
Btw if i pick up a 8" sub with 8 ohms.. Then lets say a rockford fosgate p 500 4 channel amp will run it just fine? Or will the sub have to be 4ohms?
10-26-10, 08:34 AM
#82
I finished my installation last night for the two front speakers. I used 6-1/2" Jamo speakers, $9 each from Paarts-Express. This is a Swedish made speaker who 15-20 years ago tried to compete with Bose by offering lineups against the Accoustimass. Good sounding but never really gained ground due to lack of name recognition.
Here's the speaker
Sound is very good quality. Tight bass and sound can be loud when cranked up. The thud thud thud of the bass can be felt strongly when your arm is resting on door armrest.
Some notes on installation:
1. The plastic garnish on the door window switch cluster breaks *very easily*. I snapped the plastic on both Left and Right. I think my screw driver is too thick for the job. One might be better off using a butter knife. It can also break when installing so be really careful. I will post picture later. Brand new, the part costs around $300 on the driver side and $85 on the passenger side.
2. The replacement can be made without completely removing the door panel. After removing all the screws and tabs, lift below and raise the panel enough to remove the speaker mount/holder (4 brass screws using socket #10). All work is done outside anyway (except if you are adding EDead).
3. The MDF seems too thick as an adapter. If you look inside the panel cavity before removing the speakers, there's only about 1/4" to 1/3" clearance between the speaker and the door speaker plastic grill. One may use a 1/4" birch or oak plywood. Make sure you use GE Silicone II or similar when assembling the speaker to the plastic speaker mount/holder to close air gaps.
Thank you Zgone for your post and all the others who installed ahead of me.
Here's the speaker
Sound is very good quality. Tight bass and sound can be loud when cranked up. The thud thud thud of the bass can be felt strongly when your arm is resting on door armrest.
Some notes on installation:
1. The plastic garnish on the door window switch cluster breaks *very easily*. I snapped the plastic on both Left and Right. I think my screw driver is too thick for the job. One might be better off using a butter knife. It can also break when installing so be really careful. I will post picture later. Brand new, the part costs around $300 on the driver side and $85 on the passenger side.
2. The replacement can be made without completely removing the door panel. After removing all the screws and tabs, lift below and raise the panel enough to remove the speaker mount/holder (4 brass screws using socket #10). All work is done outside anyway (except if you are adding EDead).
3. The MDF seems too thick as an adapter. If you look inside the panel cavity before removing the speakers, there's only about 1/4" to 1/3" clearance between the speaker and the door speaker plastic grill. One may use a 1/4" birch or oak plywood. Make sure you use GE Silicone II or similar when assembling the speaker to the plastic speaker mount/holder to close air gaps.
Thank you Zgone for your post and all the others who installed ahead of me.
11-10-10, 08:12 PM
#83
can anyone tell me what wire colors he used to tap for the SUB output? he listed the door speaker output wire colors but what about the sub for the 4 ohm aftermarket sub he used?
from this picture, is the sub output the red and bluish/greenish wire thats tapped with the black wires he used?
from this picture, is the sub output the red and bluish/greenish wire thats tapped with the black wires he used?
Last edited by Pnuge88; 11-10-10 at 08:16 PM.
11-15-10, 01:22 PM
#84
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my question is this: what is the harness situation for using home audio designed speakers like these to http://cgi.ebay.com/2-way-6-1-2-Spea...ht_4601wt_1139
replace the ML 6x9's. getting or fashioning an adapter isn't that big an issue, the harness however is something that concerns me. i think im gonna try the silicone solution first to see what the outcome of that is, but i'd rather replace em if a harness isn't a huge deal. thank you to all the contributors, no way i would ever attack such a task without these amazing writeups and fotos.
replace the ML 6x9's. getting or fashioning an adapter isn't that big an issue, the harness however is something that concerns me. i think im gonna try the silicone solution first to see what the outcome of that is, but i'd rather replace em if a harness isn't a huge deal. thank you to all the contributors, no way i would ever attack such a task without these amazing writeups and fotos.
11-22-10, 05:15 PM
#85
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i also went with 6-1/2 " replacement woofers from parts express, but went with a better quality speaker in the Arum Cantus AC-165 woofer with a frequency range of 32-8000 hz. the bass in the front of the car has doubled and the clarity is remarkable. these are 8 ohm woofers and have large magnets but are only 3" deep and fit perfectly in the adapter plates i made. for $75.00 ech. a great sound inprovement!! thanks for the info on removing the door panels!
I am considering these same speakers (Arum Cantus AC-165). Are you still happy with them?
12-11-10, 09:53 PM
#86
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Its settled, I have finally decided on my arrangement, I am going with Kicker DS series 6.5" woofers, they are only 4ohms, but my car audio friend said that the ML should be able to handle it with out much trouble, the speakers will just be a bit louder than the rest, fine with me. I am going with a matching 20mm tweeter that I hopefully won't have much trouble getting installed, they're included so if they don't fit no harm done.
In the back I'm putting an 8" Kick CompVR Subwoofer, with dual 4ohm voice coils that Im going to wire in parallel to a DX Series Kicker Amp 275W RMS@ 2ohms. I will be sure to post pictures of any problems I encounter along the way, and a write up on the SQ after its complete. For those wanting the numbers from Kicker the set up would run about $750, a dealer friend is getting me everything for $230! Great Deal!! I am excited for the speakers to come in and will keep you all updated!
In the back I'm putting an 8" Kick CompVR Subwoofer, with dual 4ohm voice coils that Im going to wire in parallel to a DX Series Kicker Amp 275W RMS@ 2ohms. I will be sure to post pictures of any problems I encounter along the way, and a write up on the SQ after its complete. For those wanting the numbers from Kicker the set up would run about $750, a dealer friend is getting me everything for $230! Great Deal!! I am excited for the speakers to come in and will keep you all updated!
12-13-10, 08:20 PM
#87
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just to do a little friendly ball busting; many tool companies actually make plastic panel removal tools. the metal screwdriver could marr the plastic door panels, using a softer plastic tool will help keep damaging marks to a minimum.
and the mdf adapter you made is a novel idea, but the problem with mdf is that when it gets wet it will swell up like a sponge. MOST cars will, over time, allow some water to get into the door panels. when making speaker adapters here at work i like to use ABS because it is more waterproof. then for better sound (because abs is not very rigid) i cover it in dynamat.
you can , however, waterproof the mdf you made with spray paint or somethign similar.
in my own car i actually used 3/4" oak spacers that were then waterproofed with spray paint. (but in my car i went from a 4"speaker and enclosure to a 6.5" midrange). not the same application you did in the SC.
-frank
and the mdf adapter you made is a novel idea, but the problem with mdf is that when it gets wet it will swell up like a sponge. MOST cars will, over time, allow some water to get into the door panels. when making speaker adapters here at work i like to use ABS because it is more waterproof. then for better sound (because abs is not very rigid) i cover it in dynamat.
you can , however, waterproof the mdf you made with spray paint or somethign similar.
in my own car i actually used 3/4" oak spacers that were then waterproofed with spray paint. (but in my car i went from a 4"speaker and enclosure to a 6.5" midrange). not the same application you did in the SC.
-frank
12-20-10, 10:06 AM
#88
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Finished my install yesterday, took a good 10+ hours but in the end it was so worth it. The hardest part was the door speakers, because the company I ordered from sent 6x8s instead of 6.5" but I modified the mounting bracket I got and it worked out well. Everything sounds amazing! Thanks Zgone for the excellent write up, it made the whole process run very smoothly! PM me if you have any questions and I may be able to help answer them!
12-27-10, 05:06 AM
#89
Any chance that you took some pics?