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Speaker Install SC430

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Old 04-11-10, 07:39 AM   #61
bobcat1
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I searched hi and low for some decent replacements that could handle the pathetic volume issue of the ML's. As you all know there are almost no 8 ohm car speakers available.... well, I found some!! They're made by DC Gold. Do a search on the web and you will find several places, but shop around, as prices vary. They're actually designed for marine (boating), so a bonus for us drop top owners, as they will handle the elements better, and last an eternity.

I was less than thrilled with the lack of volume the ML's could handle, but the DC Gold's are awsome! Rated for 80W. What a difference! Now I can be on the highway and next to a semi and hear my music.

Next, the install... they fit! RAH! I was afraid that they would be too deep, and the window wouldn't go down, but with the bracket from the ML's they're perfect. I'm not an expert installer by any means, and it took about three hours to do both fronts. I chose the N69R, these are the reference models. They also make a classic model (a little cheaper). Yes, they're not cheap-- $287, but they sound incredible. Check out their website to read up on then.

One note, on the install, you will need to use the mounting adapter that the ML's are screwed into. Peal the foam surround back from the 4 corners, and get an allen wrench to unscrew them... then take a flat head screw driver and loosen the speakers from the bracket (a little bit all the way around the edge, so you don't force/break them). To put the new speakers in the brackets, you have two options... drill the hole a bit wider in the DC Golds, or angle the screws in a bit all the way around.

I re-used the wire clips, and made an extension for the one side as the connectors are on each side of the magnet... not a big deal. You can wedge the wire into the clip, then add a little solder to keep in in place.

I thought about replacing the rears too, but this has been more than adequite, and I'm a happy camper!!

More later if anyone is interested, or needs pics, let me know.

(Pics and additional notes added to other thread "Mark Levinson sound system")
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Last edited by bobcat1; 04-15-10 at 07:50 PM.. Reason: updating pics & comments
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Old 06-07-10, 08:44 PM   #62
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Just stumbled along this thread, and I found out that the 03 sc430 i just purchased has this problem. I didnt turn the music loud enough to notice it before. Im thinking since I need to access the speakers anyways, I might as well change out to some better qualty speakers.

I want just something I can drop in without having to install a amp. It looks like Eminence Alpha 6A 6" speakers will do it? And I guess Ill need to get an adapter also to get it installed correctly?

I see that DC Golds I might be able to? But they seem to be 200 some bucks?? Anything cheaper thats a drop in without extra pieces?
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Old 06-13-10, 03:09 PM   #63
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The DC Golds didn't need any adapters, as I was able to use the ones from the Mark Levinsons. If you can find something in a 6X9, you may be able to do the same. If you're going to a round speaker, you will most likely need to fabricate one (see the previous posts). Good Luck.
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Old 06-14-10, 10:25 AM   #64
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Default DC Golds

Bobcat,

The DC Gold spec sheet says they are about 6" deep! That has to be wrong if you got it to fit. Did you move the speaker mount out to allow clearance or something?
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Old 06-15-10, 01:20 PM   #65
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bobcat1,
Where did you buy your DC Gold for $287?
Thanks for the writeup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobcat1 View Post
I searched hi and low for some decent replacements that could handle the pathetic volume issue of the ML's. As you all know there are almost no 8 ohm car speakers available.... well, I found some!! They're made by DC Gold. Do a search on the web and you will find several places, but shop around, as prices vary. They're actually designed for marine (boating), so a bonus for us drop top owners, as they will handle the elements better, and last an eternity.

I was less than thrilled with the lack of volume the ML's could handle, but the DC Gold's are awsome! Rated for 80W. What a difference! Now I can be on the highway and next to a semi and hear my music.

Next, the install... they fit! RAH! I was afraid that they would be too deep, and the window wouldn't go down, but with the bracket from the ML's they're perfect. I'm not an expert installer by any means, and it took about three hours to do both fronts. I chose the N69R, these are the reference models. They also make a classic model (a little cheaper). Yes, they're not cheap-- $287, but they sound incredible. Check out their website to read up on then.

One note, on the install, you will need to use the mounting adapter that the ML's are screwed into. Peal the foam surround back from the 4 corners, and get an allen wrench to unscrew them... then take a flat head screw driver and loosen the speakers from the bracket (a little bit all the way around the edge, so you don't force/break them). To put the new speakers in the brackets, you have two options... drill the hole a bit wider in the DC Golds, or angle the screws in a bit all the way around.

I re-used the wire clips, and made an extension for the one side as the connectors are on each side of the magnet... not a big deal. You can wedge the wire into the clip, then add a little solder to keep in in place.

I thought about replacing the rears too, but this has been more than adequite, and I'm a happy camper!!

More later if anyone is interested, or needs pics, let me know.

(Pics and additional notes added to other thread "Mark Levinson sound system")
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Old 06-23-10, 05:21 AM   #66
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Default Went the Pioneer route

Although it has been a few years since the first post, I want to thank Zgone for the great instructions. I went with the Pioneer 6 1/2" woofers from Parts Express Route as others here have done, and thanks to the clear instructions it was quick and easy. $54 and done!

Thanks!
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Old 06-28-10, 01:13 AM   #67
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If the original mounting space is for a 6 x 9 then one could squeeze in two smaller 4 ohm speakers and wire then in series. That is, positive lead to the positive terminal of one speaker and the negative lead to the negative terminal of the other speaker. The remaining terminals on each speaker are then wired together. This would make an 8 ohm load. Two four inch speakers would likely drop in but with a jigsaw, some MDF and a little creativity one could like get two 5.25 inch speakers in the door. A pair of quality 5.25 coaxials in each door would sound great!
Anyway, just an idea...
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Old 07-06-10, 02:53 PM   #68
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Are you satisfied with the quality of the system; can you hear it with the top down?
Both of my door speakrs are blown and I can't locate a replacement/installation shop in town.
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Old 07-19-10, 03:58 PM   #69
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I re-used the existing brackets from the ML's and the speakers (DC Golds) fit without a problem. I recall that the spec sheet on their website was somewhat odd, and wasn't very clear. I don't know the exact depth, but I do know that they fit, without building them out. Getting them in the existing ML brackets requires you to adjust the hole in the DC Gold frame, or angle the screws inward. They're just a little bit off, but they can work. (Read my posts... there are a few all dealing w/this.) Anyway, I bought them from Hodges Marine Electronics, and yes, I'm happy with them, especially the additional volume that I can play them at.
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Old 07-25-10, 06:11 PM   #70
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Thanks for the removal instructions. Didn't have to completely remove the inner door panel to remove speaker. Worked on my back and got it our fairly easy. Used hot glue around the cone where the foam connects. Plugged it in and it sounds like new. Didn't cost anything but a couple of hours time.
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Old 07-28-10, 06:12 PM   #71
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RFK6X9 Flat Foam kit form Speaker Exchange. http://www.reconingspeakers.com/refo...am-kits-specs/
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Old 08-02-10, 08:30 PM   #72
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Default Still Going Strong

I haven't check this thread in a long time. Thanks to everyone for the Kudos. I wanted to let you know that the system is still going strong with zero issues after almost three years. It was funny looking at the pictures because since this is my wife's car it hasn't been that clean on the inside since I took those photos. I take care of the exterior and under the hood. The interior is her problem!

Cheers
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Old 08-07-10, 12:05 PM   #73
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Default fantastic instruction & some thoughts

Let me add to the other comments - this thread is fantastic and zgone did an amazing service for us. thank you.

couple thoughts from my experience (both woofers in front and both rears):

* I am already on my third amp in this car (both repairs goodwilled by the dealer after I timed out of the warranty - amazing). It's a known problem that this amp just can't cool itself under a big load, in the SC430 configuration. I had no appetite for gambling with different impedances on replacement speakers, although you would think it might help. You may be different on this.

* The rears went first, and so I did them first - I actually did play around with upgrading the rears at first, and fitting new speaks in the old frames is what takes the most time and effort within the whole project. Ultimately I had the old ones checked and refoamed by a local guy in two days who did a nice job - BUT - if you listen closely and play with the fader, these speakers ultimately carry so little of the load that I can't imagine how it's worth the time and effort to make a serious upgrade here. Now, if I had it to do over, I would forget about the repair job, I would buy new stock speaks - the Sewell price on these speakers is really pretty cheap - pop them in, close the car up, and be done with it. Upgrading the front woofs I defintitely understand. But I don't think the rears are worth the trouble in the scheme of things.

* On the front woofers, most of your time will be spent fitting no-stock speaks into the install frame. If you are intent on upgrading, it might be worth while to see if you could obtain used speakers - even if they are fried - just to harvest the speaker frame to work with ahead of time. That way you can do all that fitting on the bench and only have to take the front door facings off once, making that a relatively quick job.

* As has been mentioned before, you don't have to take the wood and door handle off the front door facings. You can prop them up while you pop the new woofers in. Doesn't take long if they are prepared per above.

* All that said, I had some time pressure and so I just opted to replace with new stock woofers. The best deal is from Sewell Parts Online and their CL discount (thanks Sewell for supporting CL), and the price is still high but was within my pain threshold. Sound is good enough, the wood panels still buzz a little at top volume - would have been the same with any speaker. I may get to that problem later, it only happens when you're really cranking it.

* On the front facings - I would recommend you take out the two plug/clips nearest the door hinges FIRST. They are tougher to take out with any weight hanging on them, i.e. if you've taken a couple of the other screws out already.

If I think of anything else I'll repost. Could not have done this anywhere near as cleanly without this terrific thread. Thanks again.
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Old 08-19-10, 03:07 PM   #74
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Exclamation Do I have Clearance Clarence?!?

This goes out to anyone who has replaced their factory 6X9 ML's (junk) with an aftermarket speaker. I found the exact speaker I want to put in (using ZGones method) but not sure if I have the room. It's a Techincal Pro 6.5'' 8 ohm with a mounting depth of 85mm or about 3.35 inches. The Pioneer ZGone used was 2 3/8 inches (after the MDF) and he said use nothing greater than 3''. Any help my fellow SC owners can provide would be greatly appeciated.
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Old 08-19-10, 03:41 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZGone View Post
I got mine from Part Express. They have a huge selection of 8 ohm drivers to choose from. Here are some links to a couple of sites that I investigated in this upgrade:

Parts Express
MadiSound

Just keep in mind that you only have about 3" top mounting depth to clear the windows. I used the additional 1/4" MDF for mounting the 6.5" and still had about 1/4 to o1/2" clearance for the door panel. Could have possible gone with a top mounting depth of 3.5" but didn't want to risk having the window hit the magnet or not being able to get the door panel back on. I would NEVER replace with OEM speakers because regardless of the maker or brand of the system, the speakers are always the place where they skimp on quality. This is because they sound OK when they are brand new but do not last and there is definate room for major improvement. The upgrade I did sounds so good I actually drained the battery just sitting and listening to it (It's my wife's car so I don't drive, just tinker with it).

Cheers.
Hey ZGone, if I have a 6.5'' speaker with a 3.35 top mounting depth, will I be okay? 3.35 is before I slip in the adaptor that I got on ebay
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Old 08-19-10, 03:41 PM
 
 
 
 
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