how to install aftermarket radio in 2nd generation gs
#46
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So I bought a new double din for Christmas and got everything out and the new HU installed before I realized this whole bypassing the amp thing. A few questions - I purchased this harness
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1207017...77#details-tab
Do I still plug it into the factory wiring behind the HU and splice it into the new Clarion wiring? From what I have read I need to run wires from the deck to where the amp is. Where do I get the power/switch? Where does one purchase and extension harness to reach the glove box? I used to think I was pretty good at the whole car stereo stuff....I guess I am getting older Thanks in advance!
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1207017...77#details-tab
Do I still plug it into the factory wiring behind the HU and splice it into the new Clarion wiring? From what I have read I need to run wires from the deck to where the amp is. Where do I get the power/switch? Where does one purchase and extension harness to reach the glove box? I used to think I was pretty good at the whole car stereo stuff....I guess I am getting older Thanks in advance!
#47
I could be wrong since I just ran an aftermarket amp and speaker wire through the door to the speakers but I believe you have to "create" a harness for the speaker wires get some wire and and run it from the aftermarket unit into the glove box and splice it there with the colors. For constant and switched power you have to splice into the stock harness blue/yellow wire is constant and grey wire on the same harness is switched power.
#48
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I just installed a jvc kw av70. You have to unplug the factory amp output and plug your wire harness in there. This will be your speaker connections. Extend the leads to the back of your head unit to make the connection on the H/U side. You'll have to get power & ACC from the plug that went yo the factory head unit.
This will basically bypass you factory amp & CD changer.
This will basically bypass you factory amp & CD changer.
#49
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Awesome! I did some work on it over the Christmas break and actually got everything working well. I made an extension with strips of speaker wire and bought some multicolored electrical tape to mark the wires. The clarion deck is in and finally I can see my screen again
I also was starting on the task of removing the stock 4" speakers with some new Polk 6.5". I tried to find somewhere online that made an adapter, but the one place on Ebay seemed a bit shady. I had a local shop cut some for me and installed them for pretty cheap. One question - when they wired the new speakers the stock tweeters are still working. Does this mean that the new front speakers are only running at 2ohms and getting half the power? Should I just run new wire from the harness I wired - through the door to the new speakers? How hard was it to run the wire through the door once the panels are off?
Now the old amp and sub questions - I thought about picking this up...
Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X1-compact-Amplifier - and putting it where the old disc changer was. I don't need window shaking bass....just the lows. I was thinking I would try and just hook up the stock sub wires to the new amp and try that first. Otherwise I would have to by a new sub and box and run new wires to the back. Thoughts?
I also was starting on the task of removing the stock 4" speakers with some new Polk 6.5". I tried to find somewhere online that made an adapter, but the one place on Ebay seemed a bit shady. I had a local shop cut some for me and installed them for pretty cheap. One question - when they wired the new speakers the stock tweeters are still working. Does this mean that the new front speakers are only running at 2ohms and getting half the power? Should I just run new wire from the harness I wired - through the door to the new speakers? How hard was it to run the wire through the door once the panels are off?
Now the old amp and sub questions - I thought about picking this up...
Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X1-compact-Amplifier - and putting it where the old disc changer was. I don't need window shaking bass....just the lows. I was thinking I would try and just hook up the stock sub wires to the new amp and try that first. Otherwise I would have to by a new sub and box and run new wires to the back. Thoughts?
#51
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Just finish installing my kenwood double din this article really help me bypassing the amp I still use the power and ground from the old plug amd use the wires from the plug to feed the speakers back to where they used to connect to the amp and my video wire to be able to watch dvd I put it to ground.....
#53
Driver School Candidate
This was a massive help.
I bought an amp bypass loom which in the picks looked perfect but I had to rewire nearly everything.
Only one question, does anyone know the wire to connect the electric aerial feed to??
I bought an amp bypass loom which in the picks looked perfect but I had to rewire nearly everything.
Only one question, does anyone know the wire to connect the electric aerial feed to??
#54
Electric Aerial feed? I've got an awesome DIY I've got made up, almost done putting it together. Just stuck on one small part hahaha. But what's this your talking about man?
#55
when is the diy coming out. im getting ready to do my install. but think im missing a few steps.
#56
I may need a photo of someone's stock harness because You have to change a pins position on one of your stock plugs, I may be able to tell but I'll keep you posted and maybe you'll be able to provide me with that pic... Or actually I can just find one on here what am I saying... Lol.. Stay posted
Last edited by GSGenesis; 07-06-14 at 02:29 PM.
#57
Sorry btw I said I'll go ahead and start that up, I meant finish it up, I just need to get a photo of the stock plug so I can explain which wire must be repositioned and why.... Besides that yea, I've got all photo's taken of the process, directions on how to make everything... So give me till tonight hopefully have it done k.
#58
my metra Metra 70-1761 says:
Note: In 1998-2000 Lexus GS vehicles, these harnesses connect at the
amplifier location behind the passenger's side kickpanel. The 12 Volts
Constant power, chassis ground and speaker wires must be lengthened in
order to reach the kickpanel area. The power antenna and 12 Volts Switched
power leads must be spliced at the radio location.
Has anyone ran there harness this way and it worked? i have only the 12v switched and dimmer going into the 6 pin, constant power and ground going to amp harness in 10 pin. Ive already made my extended harness and dont want to take it part and re do after finding out it doesnt work
Note: In 1998-2000 Lexus GS vehicles, these harnesses connect at the
amplifier location behind the passenger's side kickpanel. The 12 Volts
Constant power, chassis ground and speaker wires must be lengthened in
order to reach the kickpanel area. The power antenna and 12 Volts Switched
power leads must be spliced at the radio location.
Has anyone ran there harness this way and it worked? i have only the 12v switched and dimmer going into the 6 pin, constant power and ground going to amp harness in 10 pin. Ive already made my extended harness and dont want to take it part and re do after finding out it doesnt work
#59
my metra Metra 70-1761 says:
Note: In 1998-2000 Lexus GS vehicles, these harnesses connect at the
amplifier location behind the passenger's side kickpanel. The 12 Volts
Constant power, chassis ground and speaker wires must be lengthened in
order to reach the kickpanel area. The power antenna and 12 Volts Switched
power leads must be spliced at the radio location.
Has anyone ran there harness this way and it worked? i have only the 12v switched and dimmer going into the 6 pin, constant power and ground going to amp harness in 10 pin. Ive already made my extended harness and dont want to take it part and re do after finding out it doesnt work
Note: In 1998-2000 Lexus GS vehicles, these harnesses connect at the
amplifier location behind the passenger's side kickpanel. The 12 Volts
Constant power, chassis ground and speaker wires must be lengthened in
order to reach the kickpanel area. The power antenna and 12 Volts Switched
power leads must be spliced at the radio location.
Has anyone ran there harness this way and it worked? i have only the 12v switched and dimmer going into the 6 pin, constant power and ground going to amp harness in 10 pin. Ive already made my extended harness and dont want to take it part and re do after finding out it doesnt work
#60
All of my connections are made through the harness you make, just sit still for a min and I'll post the dam thing up, I've got this and another DIY I'm trying to make it's not easy lol, it's a lot of dam work to make these things take patience I gotta say.. But I'll try and answer your question let me double check for ya