Hacked into CD changer signal with Ipod signal---
#1
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Hacked into CD changer signal with Ipod signal---
I was able to run signal from my mp3 player headphone jack into the input lines from the cd changer to the head unit (92 SC w/pioneer 12 disc) .... You would need to leave your changer in so that the h/u will switch to the CD function even if the changer doesn't work. I'm presently still working the kinks out of making this work, but it does seem promising....
-- Progress --
I have been able to use this diagram to successfully patch my mp3 player signal directly into the signal ground "A8" and CD R+ "A1" on the power/signal connector on the cd changer. Mine is the Lexus Premium system (pioneer) with the 12 disc changer (inoperable-- worked one time the day I bought it) which now reads "Err" and just shuffles thru discs never able to read any.....
-- Problem --
What is bothersome is that when I patch the signal in-- no matter if I connect the output of my mp3 player to the R+ and R- or the R+ and Signal Ground, only the rear right speaker plays-- Or the left one only--
Maybe-- This is only due to the problem of the signal being so low to the input-- as presently it is barely loud, really less than loud , at full volume at the h/u--
-- Possible Solution --
One possible solution would be to use a small amplifier, either a stereo amp, or build some sort of signal amp--
Another option is to use an FM modulator if you don't want to do all this work involved-- -- I'm thinkin on that one too....
Please offer up any advice! It's readily accepted.
-- Progress --
I have been able to use this diagram to successfully patch my mp3 player signal directly into the signal ground "A8" and CD R+ "A1" on the power/signal connector on the cd changer. Mine is the Lexus Premium system (pioneer) with the 12 disc changer (inoperable-- worked one time the day I bought it) which now reads "Err" and just shuffles thru discs never able to read any.....
-- Problem --
What is bothersome is that when I patch the signal in-- no matter if I connect the output of my mp3 player to the R+ and R- or the R+ and Signal Ground, only the rear right speaker plays-- Or the left one only--
Maybe-- This is only due to the problem of the signal being so low to the input-- as presently it is barely loud, really less than loud , at full volume at the h/u--
-- Possible Solution --
One possible solution would be to use a small amplifier, either a stereo amp, or build some sort of signal amp--
Another option is to use an FM modulator if you don't want to do all this work involved-- -- I'm thinkin on that one too....
Please offer up any advice! It's readily accepted.
#2
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
I have been looking into this. Don't use the FM modulator, signal isn't all that great all the time, and interruptions are bothersome.
I would be curious to further see your progress. Everybody, when I posted in the stereo forum, suggested using the TAPE Ipod connector, as that is the most stable and best if you keep your head unit stock (which I want to do).
Hopefully this thread will stay around here and not moved to the stereo forum, where it will get lost, and we will never see it again.
Good luck, nice to see some innovations.
I would be curious to further see your progress. Everybody, when I posted in the stereo forum, suggested using the TAPE Ipod connector, as that is the most stable and best if you keep your head unit stock (which I want to do).
Hopefully this thread will stay around here and not moved to the stereo forum, where it will get lost, and we will never see it again.
Good luck, nice to see some innovations.
#3
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Here's an example of a line driver that will boost the output, and may enable you to increase the volume a bit also--
http://www.myradiostore.com/noise-fi...iamwisufi.html
It's a line driver, so I'm going to search for more products like it.
I don't like the tape adapter with the wire hangin out, but wouldn't mind using it if my tape player worked- A guy on here called LexusAudio claimed to be able to get the belts needed to fix the pioneer tape mechanism and said he would ship them to me. This has been almost 2 months ago-- Now the guy won't answer pm's or emails....... So I'm stuck with a tape player that doesn't work that would be an easy cheap fix...
One good note, the THD is < .005 % --- no noise whatsoever... And a 10 hz subsonic filter to get rid of any noise (this is probably noise inherent to XM radio and may not apply to an MP3 player at all, but won't hurt your sound-- as no speakers are capable of much lower than 20hz audibly, and those are expensive.. really expensive) ...
http://www.myradiostore.com/noise-fi...iamwisufi.html
It's a line driver, so I'm going to search for more products like it.
I don't like the tape adapter with the wire hangin out, but wouldn't mind using it if my tape player worked- A guy on here called LexusAudio claimed to be able to get the belts needed to fix the pioneer tape mechanism and said he would ship them to me. This has been almost 2 months ago-- Now the guy won't answer pm's or emails....... So I'm stuck with a tape player that doesn't work that would be an easy cheap fix...
One good note, the THD is < .005 % --- no noise whatsoever... And a 10 hz subsonic filter to get rid of any noise (this is probably noise inherent to XM radio and may not apply to an MP3 player at all, but won't hurt your sound-- as no speakers are capable of much lower than 20hz audibly, and those are expensive.. really expensive) ...
#6
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Ahh, you beat me to it--
I'm convinced tapping a line level booster that will run 2 to 4V with a 15db signal increase will be adequate to make this work-- For about $35 -- and I'll just run a long line from the module under the carpet into the center console and maybe thru the bottom of the cupholder or armrest-- seems easy enough to get at the back of the armrest and under the carpet by removing the rear seat and running the line through the rear firewall--
I'm convinced tapping a line level booster that will run 2 to 4V with a 15db signal increase will be adequate to make this work-- For about $35 -- and I'll just run a long line from the module under the carpet into the center console and maybe thru the bottom of the cupholder or armrest-- seems easy enough to get at the back of the armrest and under the carpet by removing the rear seat and running the line through the rear firewall--
#7
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Trending Topics
#9
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Here's a good line driver for $30 shipped-- seems to be decent quality over the others I've seen--
http://www.cardomain.com/item/PIELD1
http://www.cardomain.com/item/PIELD1
#10
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
And a 10V version, which is double the voltage I've seen on other models-- Only $30 also--
http://www.cardomain.com/item/PERPLD10
http://www.cardomain.com/item/PERPLD10
#11
#12
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks for the tip-- however, I'm too much of a pioneer to wait-- I think a line driver is the answer to this equation--
Money is :thumbdown: right now-- so I will have to wait to buy one--
Another Easier way to patch the signal in--
IF, you do not have a functional cd changer, you can patch a line driver signal (boosting your mp3 player's headphone jack signal) directly into the amp's low level inputs that run to it from the h/u -- This only leaves the sub needing a signal, -- which you can easily patch over from the same left channel output from your line driver into it's low level inputs as well -- A low pass filter can easily be ran inline of this signal, but would be even easier to use a small aftermarket amp and a 4 ohm freeair sub with it -- This would make for a great sounding factory setup just by upgrading the sub/amp --
Amp Function
This can also be manipulated somewhat as well-- as you may need to if you don't have a functional cd changer-- b/c you'll need to set the h/u to a silent audio source -- (the dead changer makes a great silent source selection to switch the h/u to) -- If you tried to turn the h/u on AM on a dead station, you would get that funky AM radio noise which you do not want.
Secondly, the h/u will not remain on the tape function if there is no tape present, OR if the belts are worn out and it doesn't work at all, leaving you no option but to buy a cd changer that will at least power up so that the h/u will switch to the CD function and have a silent signal for you to patch into.
How could you fix this??
Simple-- run a small power lead from the battery or fuse panel on a push button switch (locks in down position for "on", pops back up for "off") that will energize the remote input to both amps when switched on-- and if for some reason the head unit provides switched system 12V+ to the amps too, this power lead could also be patched into the system 12V+ leads on each amp as well.
Voila-- now you can power up your amps without the h/u even powering on, and use the volume control on your ipod/mp3 player to control the volume of the system. A simple calibration of the line driver will set the system volume where it needs to be and you won't have any use for the head unit unless you want to listen to those wonderful local FM stations-- (isn't that why you got an Ipod in the first place to tune out those stupid commercials and cheesy DJ's????)
ONE IMPORTANT NOTE:
It may cause problems leaving this switch powered up while powering on the radio, however I don't think it would, but to be safe, always power it off before powering up your head unit.
A very cool mod to this idea:
This would work identical to a powered home subwoofer, where it turns on when it senses the low voltage signal from the source unit. Instead of using a button to power up the amps, you could use a signal sensing circuit that will automatically power up the amps when you plug in your ipod and play a song, just use some online calculators to determine the values of all the components you'd need on a small circuit. It's a very common and simple device that acts as a low volt relay, and may need a small ground lead and possibly a voltage step down -- there are probably several to choose from already made up and would work nicely.
In effect:
You would have a device that allows you to plug your ipod in with the radio off, and would automatically power up the amps when you plug it in (though it would prob. need to be playing a song, I don't think it would, if it's sensitive enough to detect down in the mV range [millivolt] ---)
There you have it-- all for far less money than buying a used cd changer that may not even work at all..
Money is :thumbdown: right now-- so I will have to wait to buy one--
Another Easier way to patch the signal in--
IF, you do not have a functional cd changer, you can patch a line driver signal (boosting your mp3 player's headphone jack signal) directly into the amp's low level inputs that run to it from the h/u -- This only leaves the sub needing a signal, -- which you can easily patch over from the same left channel output from your line driver into it's low level inputs as well -- A low pass filter can easily be ran inline of this signal, but would be even easier to use a small aftermarket amp and a 4 ohm freeair sub with it -- This would make for a great sounding factory setup just by upgrading the sub/amp --
Amp Function
This can also be manipulated somewhat as well-- as you may need to if you don't have a functional cd changer-- b/c you'll need to set the h/u to a silent audio source -- (the dead changer makes a great silent source selection to switch the h/u to) -- If you tried to turn the h/u on AM on a dead station, you would get that funky AM radio noise which you do not want.
Secondly, the h/u will not remain on the tape function if there is no tape present, OR if the belts are worn out and it doesn't work at all, leaving you no option but to buy a cd changer that will at least power up so that the h/u will switch to the CD function and have a silent signal for you to patch into.
How could you fix this??
Simple-- run a small power lead from the battery or fuse panel on a push button switch (locks in down position for "on", pops back up for "off") that will energize the remote input to both amps when switched on-- and if for some reason the head unit provides switched system 12V+ to the amps too, this power lead could also be patched into the system 12V+ leads on each amp as well.
Voila-- now you can power up your amps without the h/u even powering on, and use the volume control on your ipod/mp3 player to control the volume of the system. A simple calibration of the line driver will set the system volume where it needs to be and you won't have any use for the head unit unless you want to listen to those wonderful local FM stations-- (isn't that why you got an Ipod in the first place to tune out those stupid commercials and cheesy DJ's????)
ONE IMPORTANT NOTE:
It may cause problems leaving this switch powered up while powering on the radio, however I don't think it would, but to be safe, always power it off before powering up your head unit.
A very cool mod to this idea:
This would work identical to a powered home subwoofer, where it turns on when it senses the low voltage signal from the source unit. Instead of using a button to power up the amps, you could use a signal sensing circuit that will automatically power up the amps when you plug in your ipod and play a song, just use some online calculators to determine the values of all the components you'd need on a small circuit. It's a very common and simple device that acts as a low volt relay, and may need a small ground lead and possibly a voltage step down -- there are probably several to choose from already made up and would work nicely.
In effect:
You would have a device that allows you to plug your ipod in with the radio off, and would automatically power up the amps when you plug it in (though it would prob. need to be playing a song, I don't think it would, if it's sensitive enough to detect down in the mV range [millivolt] ---)
There you have it-- all for far less money than buying a used cd changer that may not even work at all..
#13
#14
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
New Progress--
I actually cut the lines and connected both the right and left channels this time, and found that when I had previously only tapped into the lines, the sound was muffled-- This is due to a small voltage the changer was applying to the lines-- having a negative effect on the signal from the mp3 player, like connecting two batteries together (sort of) -- they can negate one another and just create heat and resistance.. Stupid me--
Today when I actually disconnected the lines from the changer and ran them solely to the player-- WOW what a difference--
The volume level is MUCH better and most would be satisfied -- I still want to run a line driver inline to ramp the signal a bit to match the volume of the fm tuner, or even better it by a little-- I'm thinking these factory amps would respond to a little more gain--
I will eventually replace everything in the way of amps and speakers, but I'll try to live with the factory head unit (at least for now) until something I'm actually impressed with comes out in a double din form --
There you have it....
The dead cd changer woes are done forever, with no need to replace it with a used one or anything-- I definitely will not be buying a $600 oem replacement.
One Day--
One day double din head units will be a 6 disc changer that plays 6 mp3 discs-- Maybe even 6 dvd's with mp3's on them-- Then I'll drop the change on one--
I actually cut the lines and connected both the right and left channels this time, and found that when I had previously only tapped into the lines, the sound was muffled-- This is due to a small voltage the changer was applying to the lines-- having a negative effect on the signal from the mp3 player, like connecting two batteries together (sort of) -- they can negate one another and just create heat and resistance.. Stupid me--
Today when I actually disconnected the lines from the changer and ran them solely to the player-- WOW what a difference--
The volume level is MUCH better and most would be satisfied -- I still want to run a line driver inline to ramp the signal a bit to match the volume of the fm tuner, or even better it by a little-- I'm thinking these factory amps would respond to a little more gain--
I will eventually replace everything in the way of amps and speakers, but I'll try to live with the factory head unit (at least for now) until something I'm actually impressed with comes out in a double din form --
There you have it....
The dead cd changer woes are done forever, with no need to replace it with a used one or anything-- I definitely will not be buying a $600 oem replacement.
One Day--
One day double din head units will be a 6 disc changer that plays 6 mp3 discs-- Maybe even 6 dvd's with mp3's on them-- Then I'll drop the change on one--
Last edited by MJHSC400; 03-03-07 at 05:26 PM.