easy subwoofer upgrade for gs
#16
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So, is this with a ML stereo? Did you use the stock sub speaker leads to input to your amp? Where did you mount the amp? Pics? Do you have any seperate sub control? We need more details!!!
Jimbo
Jimbo
#17
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Not ML stereo....amps are mounted in the trunk....sub control is part of sony headunit...sorry i dont ahve any more details, i bought the car used and it came this way....the only thng i replaced was the subwoofer...
#19
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Wonder if i could get away using a KICK SOLO-BARIC 10". I have one of the OLD Round Solo_Barics from back in the day that just sits in my office..Hmmm might have to try it...Dont know about Free Air though LOL..I had it in a box long ago and would be using a FOSGATE 800 Punch
#20
Everything in Moderation
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While this represents just about the quickest and dirtiest method of sub upgrade, it is not recommended. With a minor additional amount of work, the woofer can be much more secure. Zip ties are not a reliable method of fastening this, because they will tend to stretch, deteriorate over time, etc. Due to vibration over time, the deck metal may cut into the ties, making the woofer loose in its mount, or worse, placing the woofer on your trunk floor.
A better way to do the same job would be to cut a -double- baffle board out of MDF (1/2 or 3/4") to fit under the deck. Two layers - the bottom one would be sized to bolt in the woofer, and the top one would be a spacer to allow the lower board to sit down lower than the deck, to allow for woofer excursion so that it never hits the deck or trim. Sealing would be done with strip caulk. Both layers would bolt right thru the stock bolt holes. Much more robust installation. Also accounts for Percy's comment above.
A better way to do the same job would be to cut a -double- baffle board out of MDF (1/2 or 3/4") to fit under the deck. Two layers - the bottom one would be sized to bolt in the woofer, and the top one would be a spacer to allow the lower board to sit down lower than the deck, to allow for woofer excursion so that it never hits the deck or trim. Sealing would be done with strip caulk. Both layers would bolt right thru the stock bolt holes. Much more robust installation. Also accounts for Percy's comment above.
#29
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btw, thanks for the suggestion/recommendation engin_ear! ! !